07/09/2026
There is a city at the bottom of the world whose name is simply Edinburgh, said in Gaelic. 🏴
Dunedin, on the south east coast of New Zealand's South Island, is Dun Eideann. It was founded in 1848 as a deliberate Scottish settlement, and not by accident or by drift. The Free Church of Scotland, born out of the Disruption of 1843 when hundreds of ministers walked out of the established Church rather than accept patronage, decided to build a Presbyterian colony from scratch at the other end of the earth.
The first two ships, the John Wickliffe and the Philip Laing, arrived in the autumn and spring of 1848 carrying around three hundred and fifty settlers into a long green harbour surrounded by steep bush. Leading them were Captain William Cargill, a Peninsular War veteran in his sixties, and the Reverend Thomas Burns, a nephew of Robert Burns. They came off the boats into mud and rain and started laying out streets named Princes and George and Hanover, because that is what you do.
They were serious people with serious intentions. Within a generation Dunedin had a university, the first in New Zealand, founded in 1869. It had schools, a newspaper, churches and a hard working Presbyterian conscience. Then in 1861 gold was found in Central Otago, the population exploded, and for a while Dunedin was the largest and richest city in the country. ⛏️
Walk it now and it is startling. Neo Gothic stone, a statue of Robert Burns in the middle of the Octagon, street names lifted straight off an Edinburgh map, and the largest kilted pipe bands outside Scotland. There are Otago families whose Scottish ancestry is not sentimental at all. It is simply what they are.
They sailed sixteen thousand miles from a country that had made life impossible for them, and the first thing they did on landing was build another Edinburgh. 🪻