05/11/2026
Tonight in Ottery St Mary, in East Devon, the fire moves.
Every 5 November, people from the town lift barrels lined with burning tar onto their shoulders and run them through the streets. The children carry small ones first, from late afternoon. By midnight the biggest barrel of the night is alight in the town square. It is not unusual for three generations of one family to carry on the same night.
Nobody can say for certain how it began. Most accounts point to the Gunpowder Plot and the 1600s. Others reach further back, to fire carried through a town to drive out what people feared in the dark.
Nobody remembers exactly why. They carry it anyway.
Traditions like this are worth walking to. Time a pilgrimage to arrive on a night like tonight, and the journey becomes even more special.
Our Old Way passes through Lewes, in East Sussex, which keeps its own Bonfire Night. There the fires also remember 17 martyrs burned in the town between 1555 and 1557. The Old Way stage from Lewes to Alfriston carries their story.