RuffCue

10/18/2026

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The information is already in there just need to click and - complete your side. (Usually auto filled for you)
TY FOR YOUR HELP Getting the word out there about our little community project

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10/17/2026

COMPLAINT: The dog is p*eing - everywhere. We're just going to keep the dog outside, or we'll have to rehome him.

Nope. This is a communication issue - so let's help YOU figure out what you're doing wrong here - and how to tell Bowser WHERE he IS to do it ... wanna? :)

IF THE RAINING TIPS have helped YOU improve your relationship with your dog - please let me know that by sending your cash support and thank you - to emt: [email protected]

OK so first we want to make sure this is NOT an issue of worms so if you need dewormers I really like the ones I'm going to link through here they do ALL the belly bugs for you and IF there is bugs you'll know pretty freakin fast. Slimy stinky p**ps can be either bugs or fungal infections Try the dewormers before you try treating for beaver fever though.
OK so - that's our preliminary groundwork ... DEBUG the dog and make sure it's not a sensation issue. Keep in mind here when I post these "REALLY LONG ANNOYING POSTS" - if YOU are struggling with this I'm still NOT COVERING all the variables I am hitting the most COMMON ones and if the post doesn't apply to you/your dog/s - GREAT don't be snarky in replying to them - scroll past - but if they DO APPLY to your situation you want the information in full, please.
WHILE AT THE VETS book in your alteration appointment - the alterations done younger tend to work well to prevent this issue from ever even popping up, but the longer you wait, the more likely it is to happen and the harder it becomes to correct for.
WORMS done - Alterations done - dog is still doing it ... NOW WHAT?

OK SO - long post ahead = if you do NOT need this help LIKE AND SHARE THE POST so someone who DOES gets some help with it rather than ditching the dog. But save your snarky responses, they only make you ugly ... no other purpose to be doing that - so save the typing - and just - scroll past.
I F YOU NEED this help - let's get into it then shall we?

1 - STOP using ammonia based cleaners - INCLUDING window/glass cleaner, floor products, and bathroom cleaners ... WHEN you use ammonial based "stuff" you trigger your dog's need to mask/cover this "strange invader scent" wit their own.
2 - REMOVE boxes, bags, and CLUTTER which becomes the GO TO spots to mark/scent. So take the dog's advice and clear ALL that stuff out of the spaces Bowser is in ...
3 - GUESTS will often trigger the need to - cover those smells - locking the dog UP makes that worse because while they're locked up - more smells came in to now be covered out - Let the dog be in the space with the people and that can help Bowser to understand where the new smells came from rather than simply be in a rush to cover them. IF those new smells come with POSITIVE memories the dog will not want them to be covered. so we DO want the dog in the area WITH people and we DO want positive associations with those new smells - so this becomes a DECISION on the part of Bowser to "keep" that scent in his repetoire.
4 - Other Dogs are also - guests ... ;)
5 - GET YOUR DOG OUT of the house!!!!!! Sniffing and scent learning is great stuff and if they get out of the house out in the bush, up to the lake, out on a logging road, walking the block, checking out the POST OFFICE, the COMMUNITY CENTER , the RINK or even the school on weekends is a great 1001 smells place to be - high activity 1001 smells places - help them to start learning oh wait - don't NEED to cover that - ok - I got it.
Scenting/marking is a lead in to territorial and ultimately aggression issues so we WANT to nip this in the bud and sort it out before that new bad habit develops into something a whole lot more of a problem to resolve.
NO ammonia - REMOVE "scent posts" (boxes, bags, and clutter) - ALLOW the dog to meet the guests and visiting dogs - Get Bowser out of the house a whole lot more and into places where he can smell a lot of different and "new" - more "different and new" than his bladder has "donations" to add to that scent pile.

So ok - we've done the vet part - we've done the START of the brain part - dog is STILL making me clean for 3 hours and 2 loads of laundry a day - WHAT IS GOING ON HERE?
So NOW we get into the WHAT YOU DO to clean it - what you USE to clean it and WHAT YOU DO WITH IT - once you have that dirty rag, pile of p**p etc. WHAT you do to clean it is effectively telling the DOG where you want them to DO IT - so - think like a dog.
MISTAKE 1 - using a CLOTH to wipe out p*e ... this is a double pronged nono First you are taking something which might as well be your clothes, your bed, or your bathmats to Bowser (all smells the same to him - CLEAN LAUNDRY) - and covering it in HIS scent and then - tossing that piddly rag - WHERE?
PUT IT WHERE YOU WANT HIM TO P*E instead of - where you ARE putting it which is where he is NOW going - don't yell at the dog for following YOUR directions just - correct yourself and that action. DOG laundry should NOT HAVE BOUNCE OR FABRIC SOFTENER USED UNTIL THIS IS REMEDIATED - or you are telling him your towels and his p**s rag are the SAME THING, ok - make sense now? NOW we seeing WHY the dog pulls the towels down and or p*es on the rugs you JUST washed? Making sense?
MISTAKE 2 - Putting into KITCHEN or BATHROOM trash cans - OR - FLUSHING DOWN THE TOILET ... WHY is this a mistake? Because where you PUT IT tells them where it's to GO so if you have been doing this you've likely found the dog now p*es - IN THE KITCHEN and oft times ON THE TRASH CAN ... or the sink mats ... in the bathroom they'll now p*e on that trash can if you've been doing that or against the toilet if you've been flushing it ... because that's where YOU put it ... ALSO - DOG P**P is NOT the same consistency or SIZE as human p**p so IF you are flushing it you WILL clog your pipes - EVERY p**p you FLUSH you need to flush 3x (it's a huge waste of water and TIME while you stand there waiting to toilet bowl to refill - just - don't do it)
MISTAKE 3 - FAILURE TO USE YOUR P**P BAGS! Most common error of the lot. Your dog KNOWS p**p bags - and if you're taking them on walks they KNOW p**p bags = OUTSIDE ... yeah? OK so ... here's what we're going to START doing with this issue ...
1 - Use PAPER TOWELS to wipe up p*e
2 - PUT the "mess" where you want them to go - HERE I have a wet room bathroom so no walls on the shower - IF they ABSOLUTELY need to go and I can't get them out the shower pan is 100% LEGAL turf to "mark" (also only takes 22 seconds to clean up and no cloths, or supplies TO clean up) so - IF I am training a dog to use that shower pan - the mess goes INTO the shower pan floor ... and within 3 days they "get it."
3 - Take your paper towels, kleenex, or the rag if you've used a rags ... put it INTO a p**p bag and - take the dog WITH YOU - and toss that outside ... DO NOT TIE THE BAG - open ended just toss it out there on the lawn.
4 - with the dog still outside with you take a FRESH p**p bag and go pick up the mess outside you can find - BUT LEAVE THE FRESH BAG OUT THERE! Don't clean it up - let the dog associate p**p time with OUTSIDE TIME, and outside scenting
- - 5 - - IF IT's "solids" - leave the solid out if a bag and out where you want them to go - YES this will mean picking it up AGAIN later ... but it's going to show them where you DO WANT them to do it and be a "cue" for them TO do it - here. So you need that cue in place and if you keep FAILING to use the "material provided" this is just going to keep happening ...

Right so we got this now?
NOT FABRICS to clean up p*e!!!!! - paper towels are better.
WHERE you dispose of it - matters - don't teach them bad habits with YOUR "where you put it" and they won't follow your lead.
PUT the dirty INTO a p**p bag
Bring the dog WITH YOU and take that OUTSIDE
Use a NEW p**p bag and go do some yard picking so the dog associates potty = OUTSIDE (and you WANT to do this NOW not in mid January so - do it NOW)
If it's a POO put the p**p ON the lawn outside of the bag so you've left a cue and reminder THIS is where we do this that will trigger his bowels when he goes out next.

IF you DO use rags - DO NOT use bounce or fabric softener ONLY detergent - put the rag into the p**p bag untied and toss it OUTSIDE and LEAVE IT out there a few weeks ...
If they're p*eing on their beds - outside it goes and you get NO BED for 10 days - then wash/hose it - NO FABRIC SOFTENER!!!!! and try again - If they've started p*eing on their own bed it'll take a few times of this cycle before they wise up - if you need a blanket to work on this with them as well come grab one. IF you add a blanket to their bed they will USUALLY start p*eing on the BLANKET instead of their bed - HOWEVER if you go this route you are risking EVERY blanket - coat - housecat, towel, mat, rug and other fabric in your house so MY advice is - don't do it. You add a blanket to the bed AFTER we have this figured out, and yes expect a couple messes but - it should stop pretty fast once Bowser is happy HIS blanket smells like HIM ... and then it's just a dog blanket on a dog bed ...

STATIC is an issue with my fluffy dog's fur though I NEED to use Bounce or something to help with that!
- Great - use static guard in a can for the dog stuff (different smell than your BED that way).

I don't WANT p**py piddly bags all over my lawn tho!
- 3 mos of lawn bags VS 15 years of house cleaning ... this is a no brainer

I live in an apartment and my LL would kill me if I did that
- Let the LL know you are working on housebreaking and while it's a bit of a mess for a few mos - longterm this needs to be done and happening - is there somewhere on the property you'd prefer I used to do this work with Bowser?

I keep catching my dog mid piddle - Or I hear the splashing - what do I do then?
DO NOT INTERRUPT!!! you can acknowledge "Oh no, see that's not cool bud!" but do NOT "disturb the process" - WHY NOT? ok well you are inviting any one of a number of possible outcomes if you do:
- Dog will now HIDE their mess in a corner you don't see but can SMELL or will take to p*eing on FABRICS that thusly don't splash
- Dog will start doing "micro piddles" - EVERYWHERE rather than one big p*e which you can find and clean
- Dog will develop dribbles - where they p*e as they walk and your entire HOUSE will be covered in it - ALWAYS
- Dog will be afraid to p*e if you are anywhere CLOSE to them and as such will STOP eliminating when you are out on a walk which is where you MOST want them to go
You do NOT want your dog to be afraid to p*e - when in close proximity TO YOU or - they're just never going to p*e when you are close (on a leash = CLOSE) ... which means hiding it, and spreading it out and/or NOT doing it when you're out on a walk but letting loose the MINUTE you are back inside the house, and - out of range to correct.
TO CORRECT: Hold them close while you clean it up - follow the protocol of paper towels into a p**p bag - take the dog outside with you while you place it outside IDEALLY in the FAR CORNER of the yard - then let them run around while you p**p pick the outside so they associate bathroom time = outside time. NO YELLING! NO Smacking at the dog!!!! JUST - show them WHAT the issue IS - WHERE it goes - and WHY they not you THEY want to do it outside ...

I did this for 30 days he's still doing "it!""
It takes TIME - consistency and you NOT being "lazy" about the disposal and AT 30 days you should see FREQUENCY of elimination issues drop - significantly.
90 days into the "new routine" you should be seeing a frequency drop to an instance 1x weekly - or less ...
It CAN take a "spell" to see the frequency drop to 0X a month - remember here you are not TRAINING the dog - but rather RE-TRAINING over accidental HUMAN ERROR - this is not the dog's fault and you had no freakin CLUE it was YOU doing it, because no one has laid this out for you either - BOTH of you are learning a new "thing" here ... don't be lazy - DO stick with it and be consistent. Apologize to the dog for your having been a donut and appreciate the loyalty that animal has for YOU despite your conflicting advice to him where to do this.

NEVER EVER turn toilet time into your dogs "personal entertainment" IE screamin' n yelling and arm waving and stomping about and making a big scene ... just - clean it up and handle it like a sentient being ;) IF you "make a production" out of cleaning it up the dog WILL see this as their personal entertainment and will mess when BORED and just looking to "break up the routine" or when you are in a fight with someone - or they (the dog) feels YOU need a DISTRACTION - do not take the bait - and in these instances you will need to re-train YOURSELF as well as Bowser but if you follow the directions - you WILL see changes IN the dog - and these habits in 2 weeks or less.
SIDE NOTE - if the oNLY time the dog GETS your attention is when they make a mess - they're thinking thats how they get attention - YOU trained them for that so - new routine means MESS = GUIDANCE but not LOVE not TOUCH - not ATTENTION just - GUIDANCE and WHEN they p*e outside THEN YOU GO NUTS with the GOOD DOG!!!!!! LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE SCRITCHES LOVES!!!! - EVERY TIME they eliminate outside - EVERY TIME ok you have to change the "lesson plan" here - and now INSIDE mess = NO love, NO contact but OUTSIDE means LOTS of GOOD contact, and POSITIVE touching ...

AT THE END OF A MESS FREE DAY - they get a reward.
ONE piece of that fluffled liver
ONE milkbone
ONE bite of your dinner off the plate
But only ONE treat PER DAY - and ONLY if they've NOT made a mess in the house ALL DAY

PROBLEM:
YOU have 3 dogs and ONE is doing it - make sure they SEE the other 2 get their rewards - but - they didn't get NUTHIN and MOST often TOMORROW - they want that treat - so they follow protocols. ;)
WHEN you get a whole WEEK of no messes, reward daily for 2 weeks and back off so now FRIDAYS become treats day - and they can have a COUPLE treats on FRIDAY so we no longer need to reward daily ...

EXPECT REGRESSION!!!!!!!!
DO NOT ASSUME A 1x accident is a new pattern ...

I have 3 dogs - 2 are GREAT with this the third one though - is giving me fits ... what do we do here.
- USE THE PACK to your advantage - so THESE 2 get goodies but YOU DON"T is a CLEAR message to the "dirtbag dog" that you've noticed, you DO know who it is doing it - you do NOT approve and you'd like ti to stop please.
- Separate the problem dog out of the pack use a gate so they can SEE everything but - can't participate in PACK stuff - this is a clear indication to the dog that what they are doing is not acceptable to your pack, or as pack behaviour - they either fit in - or get left out.
- Pay attention. Is the "dirtbag dog" doing this to try to tell the other dog something which you need to work on correcting Dog #2 on? IE Dog #2 is nipping at "dirtbags heels or pulling on a tail" - Dirtbag then goes and p*es on Dog #2's bed? If it's something like THAT going on you need to separate piddler out - and correct Dog #2 that hims not thinking U R funny buddy - STOP doing that! If it's ME I then put those 2 together in a fabric free zone - with a CLOSE eye on the pair of them and wait for them to stop "arguing" ... and get it worked out.
SOMETIMES dog #2 is INTENIONALLY getting dog #3 in s**t.
SOMETIMES dog #2 is thinking this is hilarious and a "joke"
SOMETIMES dog #3 is P*EVED with dog #2 and rather than EAT them is "dominating" without mean
SOMETIMES dog #2 is on dog #3's bed and dog #3 is saying GET OFF MY BED without being mean about it
SOMETIMES dog #3 just needs to go out twice as often as Dogs 1 and 2 do ...

YES I know this is a LONG POST and I've STILL not covered everything so - if YOU have this issue in your house and I've NOT addressed YOUR specific set of circumstances - drop a note, give me a call and we can discuss your pack and behavioural needs.

IF you've used this "play book" and managed to GET your piddler resolved - AWESOME NEWS! GLAD we were able to help you keep your pet and everyone's in a MUCH happier spot than they were and hey for ALL the cash I've saved you on cleaning supplies, and all the TIME I've saved you doing laundry and scrubbing puddles - and the FACT this is LEGIT training stuff other people charge you an arm and a leg to access - And yet I give out in the interest of SANITY - you could in return help MY sanity - and send over a cash donation for that saving of time, and cost, and sanity ... And training, right? ok emt is [email protected]

Always happy to have a cash thank you for the proven training advice you've been provided and used - EMT is [email protected]
Nice to hear "this worked for us and made a HUGE difference" - but - that's not paying the bills or getting the floor fixed and while i COULD be a gatekeeper with all these infos - I'd really hoped people would be inclined to return that help so - your turn to make good - and help the rescue with the funding drive ... [email protected] or cheque in the mailbox at 335 Nelson St made out to RUFFCUE ... would really be appreciated and make a difference - on this end - I'd rather NOT start charging people and/or gatekeeping - but having had no "advantage to providing this help to the public" - I can FULLY see why trainers - take that route. Please help me to keep this free - helpful - and proactive - and IF you've been able to use the training to your advantage - help the rescue to continue to provide help by sending in that cash "THANKS!"

Aristopet Allwormer 10 kg (22lbs) - 806 - Dogs & Puppies - Active Constituents: 50mg Praziquantel, 143mg Pyrantel Embonate and 542mg Oxantel Embonate. 6 Tablet Pack - Each tablet treats 22lbs (10

10/17/2026

Got sent some pics of FINN and her dedicated human this afternoon! She was such a good girl, I do miss her - but she was so happy to meet this gentleman and he definitely needed companionship - So here you guys go - Reminders of the happy endings and the occasional long road it takes for us to get a dog there - but it's all - FULLY worth that patience, time, and love.
Sweet Finn - and her adoring Ernie.
He won't ever see the post - but he wanted to share his thanks with everyone who has helped Finn on her journey, and ensured she made it to him.

WTG TEAM!

10/16/2026

SHOUTOUT and HUGE THANK YOU to the Cousineau family and their much appreciated donation of - FENCE PANELS - truly game changing stuff and we'll get those out there and mounted properly soon as time permits.
If anyone has a few minutes, a bag of long zap straps and an inclination to assist - you're welcome to sneak over and take some time to work on securing those to the trees and fencing in place if you're inclined. That would be a wonderful bit of help, if anyone is able to do it.

ALSO a big thank you to everyone who has popped around and left kibble, treats, and doggy goodies at either Pet Value or here at 335 Nelson St. If people need to make a pull from the Caring Cupboard you're welcome to pop around and pick up that much needed community support.

Spent some time in communication with a human in the south also working to assist the animals and rescues this week - explaining to them some of the difficulties, issues of protocol which can upset people who might not be aware OF the protocol issues and WHY that becomes a problem. Explained that "by design" vetting shortage issue we've looked at over the summer and a bunch of other "parts and pieces" we're all working to manage - WONDERFUL lady, FABULOUS conversation and - apparently ALL of the resources we use through RuffCue were not known to her. NONE of them were on her radar. So hopefully they get a "hug" and a much bigger "thank you" than our little community project is able to offer.

Had the collie dropped off this week and had mentioned - there is LIKELY a behavioural issue here - in less than 24 hours he "let loose" 3x in the house. AHHA - ok - so the issue at hand is - elimination protocols and behaviours. So he WILL be staying here for at least 30 days while we sort out the "don't do that - DO, do THIS" - he's already making huge progress and so far today he's doing all his business OUTSIDE.
IF YOU NEED HELP teaching your dog WHERE to do it - please consider dropping a note and I'll be happy to work with you on that.

Got the quotes for the floor replacement - Have NOT yet got the cheque from the ministry for the "dog sitting" and evaluations over the summer - ACTIVELY working to collect donations towards that floor repair matter so we can reopen the rescue space to moms and pups needing shelter and a safe start, and a healthy beginning. If you are able to assist and contribute towards that the emt for that effort is [email protected] and the account is still working to hit the 1k mark.
I personally liked the "green" quote the best as it seemed the most thorough. ONE of the other 2 was quoted on wrong subfloor materials and was high - the other one omitted disposal fees and costs and would have me chasing hiring a truck for that.

Fundraiser Friday - working to collect the pennies to ensure that floor is replaced so the cleaning of it can be managed properly. THANK YOU to those of you sending love, support, and financial assistance. RuffCue is a community initiative supported by community donations and backing.
I'd love to have someone helping to fundraise, applying for funds and grants which are open to the non-profit community and able to dedicate some time and focus to that aspect of this effort, but I am only 1 person. If you'd like to help out and take on that end of the effort though please do drop a note and we can discuss options.
FOSTERS also welcomed and wanted.

Emt for donations:
[email protected]

LIKE - COMMENT - SHARE this post and help us gain more exposure - in our super small northern community that exposure means the difference between finding someone who CAN assist with the flooring costs - or - spending another 6/8 mos trying to scrounge it all together. We're doing not too badly with that - but winter is fast approaching and it would be really nice to have that dog room back to functioning and open - before the snow flies so if you can help by clicking some buttons for the dogs, please - do and thank you in advance for doing.

Every click and donation helps, and your assistance matters. THANK YOU for supporting RuffCue and being an active part of the community that cares. Your care translates to saving lives and making a huge difference in community safety, and outcomes for the dogs.

[email protected] is all you need to send that emt - THANK YOU for your ongoing contributions, support, and help.

10/16/2026

10/15/2026

COMPLAINT: DOG gets weird about being touched or petted.
It's not likely an issue of the dog doesn't WANT you to touch them, but rather that when you DO touch them it hurts or gets "yucky" for some reason - IF that's the case take the dog outside - where they feel less CLOISTERED - let them walk away from you while you work on/with them (long leads are your friends) - and do a THOROUGH body check for:

CHECK FOR MATTING (ears/neck, rear haunches and back of thighs, tails., under belly, inner thighs, armpits, chest, leg and tail feathers)
CHECK FOR SKIN INJURY
CHECK FOR TICKS (I've seen ticks embedded INSIDE P***S SHEATHS and inside of noses/ear canals btw so yes, thorough checks include the personal bits)
CHECK FOR FLEAS
CHECK FOR LEECHES (USUALLY adhered to belly areas or low fur coverage areas)
CHECK FOR BURRS
CHECK FOR SPLINTERS/sticks/thorns
CHECK FOR EAR MITES
CHECK FOR PAD burn or raw feet (they can handle the ONE sensation but add touch it becomes sensory overlaod for some dogs)
FULL BODY CHECK = inside and outside of of mouth, ears, nose, p***s sheaths - back - chest - thighs, tails, inside and around ge****ls, tummy, all 4 armpits, feet and legs, collar areas, head, neck
If it's BAD you likely will NOT get it all done in one sitting, and - you don't need to - but work on it a bit each time you let the dog out.
MATTS HURT - they weigh on the skin, they catch and pull, they make lumps when trying to lie down, or sit, they are not just cosmetic issues they are COMFORT OF THE DOG issues.

JUST spent an hour removing as much matting from yesterday's drop off as he will permit me to do - it's going to take DAYS to clear all his matting out - and he is another one where the rear thigh and the tail were matting together, and preventing full tail movement. WHEN this happens they have issues P**PING without getting it all over themselves, walking becomes painful as the tail is glued to the rear legs, sitting is less than ideal as the tail is stuck under their butt, and general comfort is - a problem.
Dog sitting then jumping up? Check for mats on tails, rear of legs
Dog wants to walk but also DOESN'T want to walk (akes a few steps and collpases)- check for mats.= tails/rear of legs and innter thighs/armpits
Dog pacing when they'd ususally lie down? Check thighs, tails, tummy, inner thighs (areas that would be pulling if there is matting present and laying down would stretch the area out (PULL THE SKIN) )
Dog ok with a collar but gets weird if you attach a leash? Check neck, chest and ear areas for mats which may be being pulled with the addition of the lead.
Dog laying in the same position and giving you "the eyeballs?" - check full under carraige of the animal for matting.

Long and thick coated dogs such as HUSKIES - COLLIES - GSD - Newfies - Labs - ALL NEED REGULAR BRUSHING - like as in AT LEAST 1x weekly ... they also do NOT like the "pin brushes" but LOVE the "human brushes" (style of brush works best and they like best - link attached)

Baths matter less than brushing - brushing your FLOOFY DOG is part of responsible ownership and NEEDS to be being done. It also makes the dog/human bond better and the dog understands not only that you NOTICE and CARE but that you are taking the time with/on them 1:1 without demanding tricks, or attention being paid - they can relax with you and work on the trust the human portion of the program. ALSO BETTER IF YOU AS THE OWNER DO THIS as opposed to asking groomers to do it - YOU do the matting issues THEY do the bathing issues. The dog knows and trusts you, helps your bond, and the groomer is not spending all their time trying to cut matts out of a strange dog who doesn't trust THEM half as much as they trust - YOU. Also - the groomers will be grateful you did the heavy lifting - they can just bathe and brush.
So for the dog - for you and for the groomer - and VET - check the animal - sort it out ...

Brushing matters a lot - PERIOD - if you hit a snag or mat, or burr, or stick DO NOT YANK! (it hurts, and the more you do yank the less likely the dog will be to allow you to continue to do the help) fish it out of the fur as much as you are able - and where needs be use scissors to cut it out ... careful NOT to nick the dog. Then rebrush the stubby matted stuff out and get the loose fur out of that spot or it will immediately remat/remain an issue.

If your dog is getting weird about being touched ... it's more likely an issue of matting, burrs, sticks, thorns - than it is injury or vet "stuff" - so before you spend a fortune on a vet visit check your pet - and even IF you don't SEE anything - you'll feel them so use your hands ... I am SURE NO ONE had a CLUE how bad this boy was matted - but when I checked for this today - he's severely matted up like - could of easily been seized for neglect levels of matted up, when we don't know - it easy to misunderstand the cues the dog is giving off.
IF YOU HAVE FURRY FLOOFY DOGS - PLEASE - buy a brush in the style I'm sharing here - and use it - weekly at a minimum. Bowser - will thank you.

The Tauro Pro Line Massage Brush with 0.66" pins is a premium hair brush for dogs, cats, and even puppies, designed to gently massage the skin and promote healthy coat growth. Its rounded stainless steel pins glide through the fur without pulling, making it ideal for sensitive pets and everyday g...