Teller County Master Gardeners

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We are a group of volunteers (mostly active gardeners and plant lovers), along with our CSU Extension Agent, who bring research-based education and experience to our mountain-based community and outlying areas. This Facebook account is officially recognized by Colorado State University; however, the views and opinions expressed on this page are not necessarily those of the University. For more information about CSU’s Social Media Policy, visit http://www.socialmedia.colostate.edu and for more information about Colorado State University, visit http://www.colostate.edu.

16/09/2026

If you’re interested in trying Garlic- now’s the time to plant the “hardneck” varieties for next summer’s harvest.
What we buy in the grocery store is considered a soft neck variety, and is not winter cold hardy here. They can be grown from spring to fall, but may not get to be the same size as what you buy in the grocery store. The hard neck varieties are hardy for the winters here, when harvested- the cloves peel easily off the main stem, and they come in a variety of white, pink, red, hot/mild, some store better than others, etc.!
You’ll find the best selection now at your local garden centers or online!

15/09/2026

With cooler nighttime temperatures and overcast skies, it’s a great time to rearrange the perennial garden (that can include perennial herbs too; chives, horseradish, tarragon, etc). Also, local garden centers run their plants on sale this time of year so they don’t have to winter them over- so you might find some good deals out there!
Anytime you move a plant you’ll want to have the root be able to support the top growth. So if you dig up a perennial and can only bring 1/3 of the roots, cut back 2/3 of the top. Cooler temperatures, overcast skies, and shorter days can alleviate some of the root shock, but they do shock! Water the plant(s) in thoroughly after moving or planting, and if it continues to wilt - it’s finding a new normal, so give it a few days to rebound and just don’t look! More water can drown the roots and cause more problems; it will be ok. If it looks like it’s dying, treat it like every other perennial in the garden, and it probably will come back next year!

11/09/2026

Hard to believe that we could actually be developing fungal problems after the heat and dry spells that we went through. But now we’re running cooler, high moisture (recent rains) which can bring about fungal problems, including powdery mildew in the veggie and flower gardens. The best thing you can do is remove the worst of the leaves and throw them out! Never remove more than 1/3 of the plant during growing season. Spores from the infected leaves are designed to survive, so don’t leave them in the garden or compost; they will grow next year.
The remaining leaves/plant can be treated with copper or sulfur, which are organic type fungicides. You can also find other types of fungicides in a garden center.
https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/powdery-mildews/

08/09/2026

Before the first killing frost decide which herbs need to come inside or be harvested (basil), which ones are cold hardy (Rosemary- which should come inside around 40°F) and which ones are perennial (they stay in the ground and should come back next year- Chives, French Tarragon). Harvesting herbs can be as simple as collecting the leaves, cutting or dicing them and either drying or freezing them for future use

03/09/2026

After a year of excessive heat and drought, some of the plants are choosing an early dormancy- you can see clumps of Aspen’s that have suffered. They are brown, and will probably just drop their leaves without much fall color.
Usually, when we have adequate rainfall, the Aspens show beautiful fall colors (yellow, oranges and sometimes red) in graduated phases. A lot of of the plants in the area are just thrilled to have survived and are going to throw in the towel early (especially those who preferred moisture, Aspen’s, Willows, Alders, etc.)
https://csfs.colostate.edu/forests-trees/aspen-fall-colors/

02/09/2026

It’s hard to believe that we are just weeks away from our average first killing frost (Sept 15). That’s according to statistics and if you were one to observe our nighttime temperatures, they are dropping. Also, our sunlit day length is getting “shorter”.
What does that mean? Well, if you’re a ‘happy waterer’ 💦 you should be doing less of that. Scratch the soil surface and make sure that the plants actually need water. If you can see dark soil, or you can feel moisture, they probably don’t.

31/08/2026

We watered a lot to keep our plants alive during the droughts, then we had a lot of rain, so nutrition has leached from our soils. You can do your plants a favor by adding fertilizer now, but we are really close to last call! Most all fertilizers have the same guaranteed analysis posted in the order of nitrogen, phosphate, potash (N-P-K). High Nitrogen (1st #) promotes new foliage and is usually used for grasses or leafy crops. You’ll see it on lawn fertilizer bags called “winterizer”. Strategically- Nitrogen is used for leafy crops and corn in the vegetable garden. Because we’re so close to first frost (Sept 15), most plants in the flower garden at this elevation don’t need a new spurt of growth, so we don’t recommend using that right now.
High Phosphate (2nd #) is strategically used to promote blooms and roots. A lot of folks will use a high Phosphate to keep their annuals blooming throughout the summer or to keep veggies, like tomatoes and peppers blooming for produce. Now would be a time to apply it to perennial gardens, so the plants anchor their roots solid before going dormant.
A general purpose fertilizer (equal numbers across the board) can be a great application for gardens this time of year in case you can’t decide. Example 10–10–10, 20–20–20, etc..

26/08/2026

Fun fact (if you didn’t already know), is that fallen cones of evergreens close up when they’re wet. It’s a dispersion thing. It wouldn’t be a healthy forest if all the seeds germinated right underneath the same evergreen they were born from. So to prevent that, they close up when they’re wet!

25/08/2026

Douglas Fir looks like the Colorado Blue Spruce (somewhat) with similar needles except they’re much softer and the color is always more green! The pinecones are very different! Generally, they are found on a northern slope or closer to a source of water. They don’t like it as dry as the Ponderosa Pine, but don’t like it as wet as the Blue Spruce.; although they are found next to each one of those trees. In Colorado, they’re most commonly used for wreaths, roping and the primary greens for holiday decorations. Some of the other evergreens are used too, but the Douglas Fir is the softest.
They seem to be having a good year this year, but in the past have been susceptible the Tussock Moth.
We spoke with the Colorado State Forester recently, and she said there are outbreaks of the Fir Engraver Beetle closer to Guffey.
Below are informative links to help you identify either problem.
https://csfs.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Douglas-Fir-Tussock-Moth-QG-2015-FINAL.pdf

https://csfs.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Fir_Engraver_QG_1Nov_2016.pdf

22/08/2026

The Colorado Blue Spruce is Colorado’s State Tree and is one of our prettiest conifers.
Unlike the Ponderosa, the spruce are generally found closer to a source of water: in a draw, near the creek beds or on a north facing slope (not as hot and dry as south facing)
In the fall, you might hear pinecones dropping from the tops of the spruce trees. Usually it’s a squirrel tossing cones down for easier access later. Birds and squirrels go after the cones (or shredded cones) for the valuable seed.
There’s a few noticeable problems they can get which can disfigure them somewhat. Like the Aspen’s the native Spruce can be susceptible to insects and diseases. Most common insects will find in our area are:

White Pine Weevil - usually eliminates the tree top or leader; causing a slight zigzag in a normally straight trunk

Spruce Bark Beetle - is evident by a general decline of the whole tree, discoloring to a yellow and finally orange

Western Spruce Budworm- evidence of a small caterpillar, excessively eating the tender new growth early summer or the presence of small moths near the tree

Cooley Spruce Gall- does damage on lateral tender new growth, hollowing the whole tip; often mistaken as a cone (pinkish rather than brown)

Below are links to the corresponding insects. They include identification and solutions!

https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/white-pine-weevil/

https://csfs.colostate.edu/forest-management/common-forest-insects-diseases/spruce-bark-beetle/

https://csfs.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Western_Spruce_Budworm_QG_10May2016.pdf

https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/cooley-spruce-galls/

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Telephone

+17196867961

Website

https://teller.extension.colostate.edu/programs/gardening-horticulture/

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