10/24/2024
A World Torn Apart
Thame is a small and serene village in Nepal in the northwest corner of the Khumbu region, which is most famous for Mount Everest. Thame was settled by Sherpa people from Tibet, which lies directly to the north. Like the rest of the Khumbu, the Sherpas (Shar pa, meaning “from the East”) migrated to this region about 500 years ago.
The village is set in a valley above 12,500 feet, that affords vegetable and potato growing as well as an abundance of large fields for yaks to graze. It has been a trekking destination for decades. Climbers and tourists come from all over to enjoy the Sherpa hospitality, and stunning views of the mountains.
The village is also known for “growing” legendary Sherpa climbers: Tenzing Norgay (who, with Edmond Hillary, was the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953); Apa Sherpa, the first to have 21 ascents of Everest), Kami Rita Sherpa (who recently completed his 30th summit of Everest in May, 2024) to name a few.
Sadly, all this changed on the afternoon of August 16, 2024. In the late morning, a glacial lake burst about 6 miles up in the mountains. A torrent of water and boulders rapidly gained momentum as it scoured the upper valley and ravaged the lower fields and houses. The villagers quickly realized the situation, grabbed what they could save, and ran to higher ground.
Along with teachers and parents, Thame’s school children also rushed to the top of a ridge. Their schoolhouse was lost in the flooding, but the children were safe. Boulders the size of houses were soon crushing everything in their path.
What’s Down the Road?
In the entirety of the Khumbu, there actually are no roads. If you want to get around it has to be by foot, horse, helicopter, or being carried on someone’s back. The area therefore does not have any mechanized
equipment to help the villagers clear the damage and see what is salvageable. This means that help would have a difficult time getting to Thame, it also means that, almost a month after the disaster, none might ever be sent.
A week or two later, even though the flood had destroyed most of the houses and guest houses, the local people joined together to collect and save the remaining materials: windows, metal roofs and plywood that will be useful in the future. Doing this is priceless because in order to replace these materials, they would have to be purchased from Kathmandu and then carried through the Khumbu by porters or yaks.
I trekked to Thame on September 11th, almost a full month after the glacial lake catastrophe. We started from Namche, the Sherpa hub of the Khumbu at 11,000 feet.
Accompanied by my friend and longtime guide, Pemba Chhiri Sherpa, we hiked along the Bhote Koshi river gorge that had taken all the debris from upstream. We found it horrifying, but nothing like when we finally crested a butte six hours later to get to Thame. The village as it was, was simply no more.
We listened to so many stories of the river and its effect on the now forever changed village.
One woman, Ming Phuti, began by describing how a village man first saw the flood from about five kilometers away, and then ran to the village to tell them to get to higher ground. He described the noise that came from it: like a gun blast and a growling sound.
Everyone was terrified and went up
on the ridge. Miraculously, everyone in the village was alive. However, needless to say, everyone was very afraid, especially the children. The children were all taken to Khumjung, about 8 miles away, to stay at the hostels and attend classes for three months at the first school built by Edmond Hillary. A month later some villagers have stayed to try repair their homes, but their children still have to live and go to school in another village. Others have already left with no intention of returning. The local government has dispatched tents, food, blankets, and some money, but there is a long way to go, especially considering that winter will be on its way. Even so, I have no doubt that a handful of people from this amazing village will try to make it whole again. The Sherpa traits of kindness, acceptance and cheerfulness will prevail. In the meantime, our Sherpa Education Project continues to support Sherpa people, especially girls’ education in the region. This now includes helping to finance Thame’s children’s move to other area schools and assist their parents in rebuilding a village and a home for them. Your donations to this aim are eagerly welcome and appreciated. Please give as you can to the www.sherpaeducationproject.org and mention the “Thame Children’s Fund.” Thank you!
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Pattie Moon, September 13, 2024
