The Weekend Woodshop

The Weekend Woodshop πŸͺ΅ Real skills for the man who builds it himself β€” one project, one fix, one quiet Saturday at a time.

Stop joining two boards with one screw β€” and it was never your technique that made it come apart.Everybody's first proje...
08/31/2026

Stop joining two boards with one screw β€” and it was never your technique that made it come apart.

Everybody's first project is two boards and a screw, and everybody's first project opens at the corner. There are two reasons and neither of them is you. A screw driven into the end of a board is cutting threads into fibres running the wrong way, so it strips out under load. And glue on end grain wicks into the timber instead of staying in the joint line, which leaves almost nothing bonding the two pieces. The joint was weak before you picked up the drill.

The first fix costs nothing: drill two holes instead of one. A clearance hole through the top board, wide enough that the screw drops through without biting, and a pilot hole in the board underneath for the threads to cut into. Skip the clearance hole and the screw grips the top board and jacks the two apart rather than pulling them together β€” that is the thin gap you keep seeing on a finished corner. To size the pilot, hold the drill bit up in front of the screw: you should still see the threads either side of the bit, but not the solid core.

The second fix is to stop asking end grain to hold at all, and put long grain into the joint instead. A dowel runs straight through the joint line. A pocket screw comes in at an angle and lands in the face of the other board. Cheapest of the three, and the strongest per pound spent, is a scrap of wood glued into the inside corner as a block β€” it turns one weak end-grain joint into two long-grain glue faces, and it is made from what is already in the offcut bin.

None of this shows up the day you build it. It shows up a year later when the corner starts to rack.

Comment JOINT and I'll send you the Joint Card β€” all ten ways to join two boards with a drill and hand tools, in the order of what they hold.

β€” The Sage

Four things that video got right, and three it got badly wrong.Borate really is a timber preservative, and the New Zeala...
08/30/2026

Four things that video got right, and three it got badly wrong.

Borate really is a timber preservative, and the New Zealand building code really does require it for interior framing. But it is not permanent, it is not waterproofing, and it washes out of anything that gets rained on.

Here is the honest version, plus the safety warnings that got left out entirely. Save it before you spend a weekend on this. Then comment BORAX for the full guide.

Borax really does protect wood.There is a video going around saying a dollar box of laundry powder will waterproof your ...
08/30/2026

Borax really does protect wood.

There is a video going around saying a dollar box of laundry powder will waterproof your fence forever and that the paint industry buried it. Half of that is true, and the half that is not will cost you a fence.

Borate genuinely is a timber preservative. It stops rot and termites by making the wood indigestible rather than poisoning anything, and New Zealand thought enough of it to require boron-treated timber in interior framing. The chemistry is not the problem.

Water is. Borate never locks into the timber permanently. It stays soluble, which is exactly what lets it soak in so deeply, and exactly why rain and soil carry it back out. A treated post starts losing protection in the first wet week.

So use it where timber stays dry - framing, sill plates, subfloors, crawl spaces, sheds. For a deck or a fence, you want pressure-treated timber or a durable species instead.

And nobody in that video mentions safety. Borates are classified as reproductive toxicants in the EU. Gloves, eye protection, do not breathe the powder, keep it away from kids, pets and vegetable beds.

Has anyone tried this outdoors? Comment BORAX and I will send you the real guide.

08/29/2026

Borax really does protect wood. But outside, the rain washes it straight out.

There is a video going round claiming a dollar box of powder waterproofs your fence forever. Half of it is true.

TRUE - borate is a genuine timber preservative. It stops rot and insects by making the wood impossible to digest. New Zealand requires boron-treated timber in interior framing.

FALSE - it is not permanent, it is not waterproofing, and it will not survive outdoors. Borate stays dissolved in water, so rain and soil carry it back out within a season.

Use it on framing, sill plates, crawl spaces and sheds. For a deck or fence, use pressure-treated timber instead.

Comment BORAX and I will send you the real guide, including the safety that video left out.

08/29/2026

Seven drill bits, and the one job each is for.

1. Twist - wood, plastic, soft metal. It wanders, so punch a dent first.
2. Brad point - the spike holds it in place. Clean hole, no blowout underneath.
3. Masonry - carbide tip, needs hammer mode. Brick and concrete.
4. Tile - looks the same, but never use hammer. It shatters from the inside.
5. Spade - big holes, fast and ugly. For running cable through studs.
6. Hole saw - perfect circles. The plug jams, use the slot in the side.
7. Step - sheet metal. One bit, every size.

Comment BITS and I will send you the chart, including four more most people never buy.

Four bits you probably do not own.Forstner, countersink, auger, and the pilot hole rule nobody explains properly. These ...
08/29/2026

Four bits you probably do not own.

Forstner, countersink, auger, and the pilot hole rule nobody explains properly. These are the ones that turn a hole from functional into finished.

Plus the two rules that apply to every bit in your drawer. Save it, then comment BITS for the full chart.

Seven drill bits, and the one job each is for.Two bits in the drawer look almost identical, and picking the wrong one is...
08/29/2026

Seven drill bits, and the one job each is for.

Two bits in the drawer look almost identical, and picking the wrong one is how people crack a tile they have already glued to the wall.

A masonry bit is meant to be hammered. The drill punches it forward thousands of times a minute and it crushes its way through brick and concrete. Tile cannot take that. It is hard, but brittle, and the hammering sends shock through the whole piece. It does not fail where the bit is touching - it cracks somewhere else entirely, sometimes across a tile you have not even drilled yet.

So a tile bit has a spear-shaped tip and grinds instead, on rotation only. Turn the hammer function off, go slow, let the tip work. Porcelain is denser again and wants a diamond tip.

The rule underneath all of it: the bigger the bit, the slower it should spin. Heat kills a cutting edge, and speed is what makes heat.

Anyone else cracked a tile learning this? Comment BITS and I will send you the chart.

08/28/2026

Six things a pro does with a circular saw.

1. Set the blade about one tooth deeper than the wood. No more.
2. Make sure the offcut can fall away free, or it squeezes the blade and the saw comes back at you.
3. Never steer it mid cut. Stop, lift it out, start again.
4. Never pull it backwards while the blade is spinning.
5. Do not push hard. If you have to force it, the blade is dull.
6. Cut on a sheet of foam. The board is held everywhere.

Comment SAW and I will send you the full guide, including all five cuts this one tool can make.

Five different cuts, one saw.Cross cut, rip cut, bevel, plunge and notch. Most people only ever use the first one, and t...
08/28/2026

Five different cuts, one saw.

Cross cut, rip cut, bevel, plunge and notch. Most people only ever use the first one, and the other four are the reason a circular saw can replace tools that cost ten times as much.

Here is what each one is for and how to set it up. Save it, then comment SAW for the full guide.

Six things a pro does with a circular saw.Kickback is not bad luck and the saw is not possessed. As you finish a cut, th...
08/28/2026

Six things a pro does with a circular saw.

Kickback is not bad luck and the saw is not possessed. As you finish a cut, the piece you are cutting off has to go somewhere. If it is trapped, it closes back onto the blade and squeezes it. The back teeth are spinning upward and toward you, so the moment they get gripped the saw climbs out of the cut and comes backwards. That is the whole thing.

So before you start, ask one question. When this board comes apart, can the offcut fall away freely? If it can, you are fine. If it is going to sag inward, set it up again.

That is also why you never twist the saw back onto your line partway through. Twisting pinches the blade yourself, by hand. If the cut wanders, let go, wait for it to stop, lift it out and start over.

Has a saw ever kicked back on you? Comment SAW and I will send you the full guide.

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Sheridan, WY
WY82801

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