09/26/2025
Trip Report: Bonanza Climb and Martin, July 25-27, 2025
Adam, Kate, Said, and Bjorn
Day 1 – Friday, July 25, 2025: Journey to Holden Pass and Martin Peak
We kicked off our adventure boarding the Lady of the Lake ferry at 8:30 AM. We disembarked at Lucerne, where we helped unload luggage from the boat and hopped on the bus that wound up a twisty road to the charming Holden Village. By noon, we gathered our gear and began the trek to Holden Pass. The trail involved switchbacks, overgrown trails, and refueling with delicious trail blueberries. We reached Holden Pass, set up camp, and then Adam, Kate, and Bjorn headed off to tag the nearby summit Martin Peak. The ridgeline to the base of Martin had flat spots that made for pleasant hiking, but the scramble up was challenging with loose rock and plenty of route-finding. We summited, soaked in the stunning views of surrounding peaks like Glacier peak and Bonanza (oh and also Glacier Peak), and returned to camp by 9 PM for dinner (thanks to Said for filtering enough water to fill a small pond) and some rest before Bonanza.
Day 2 – Saturday, July 26, 2025: Bonanza Summit
We were up before the sun, fueled by a quick breakfast, and started for Bonanza by 5:30 AM. We traversed boulder fields and Crossed waterfall slabs, leading us to the Mary Green Glacier. We roped up at the glacier’s start, Adam led and navigated (some would say “perfectly”) around and over some amazing crevasses. At the glacier’s edge, we unroped, and stashed some glacier gear. The final 1,000-foot scramble up Bonanza was on sturdy rock, a nice contrast to Martin’s looseness. Staying left was critical—we noticed another team veered right and missed the true summit, a knife-edge ridge connecting the main peaks. We reached the top, signed the logbook, ate, and savored the panoramic views from the highest non-volcanic peak in Washington. The Descent involved one rappel from the summit, followed by downclimbing back to the glacier and waterfall slabs. We returned to camp, packed up, and hiked to the camp just outside Holden Village, where we ate, made a friend, and camped for the night.
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