Gloucester County Amateur Radio Club - W2MMD

Gloucester County Amateur Radio Club - W2MMD Welcome to the GCARC! We're here to promote our growing Club in South Jersey, as well as Ham Radio!

Revolutionary War POTA Event - July UpdateBy Stan Slachetka WA2JRZHard to believe that it is the middle of June and Fiel...
06/15/2026

Revolutionary War POTA Event - July Update
By Stan Slachetka WA2JRZ

Hard to believe that it is the middle of June and Field Day is only a couple of weeks away.

It also is seven weeks away from our first Revolutionary War POTA activation at the Historic Hancock House. Although the activation at Fort Mott is at the end of September, that will be here before we know it too.

There are a number of important tasks that we need to accomplish to make both of these activations a success, some of which were listed in my prior email. As expected, the ones associated with the Hancock House activation are the most immediate.

POTA Prep Meeting : Thursday, July 23, 2026
* As mentioned at the Club meeting, the POTA Prep Meeting has been moved to July 23, 2026 due to my having an unexpected family obligation on July 18th. I know that a couple of you can't make it on July 23rd and I apologize. However, we will keep you informed about any important takeaways and coordination needed for the activation at the Hancock House.
* I will be coordinating with John Zaruba K2ZA, on the agenda for the meeting. We will circulate it to the Club members prior to the meeting.

Hancock House : Saturday, August 1, 2026
* Most immediate : Prepare a contact confirmation certificate. I will be coordinating with Jon Pearce WB2MNF to craft a contact confirmation certificate to send to the hams we contact. This will include a picture of the Hancock House and some information about its history.
* Second most immediate : Prepare a member sign-up form. We need to have a member sign-up form for both the Hancock House and Fort Mott activations. I will coordinate with John O’Connell K2QA on that.
* We need to identify equipment and antennas : I anticipate that we will have a variety of gear brought by the Club members, but we will need to confirm the equipment and modes.
* We will need signage and information about ham radio and the Club for the public.
* Food : As mentioned in my last email, I anticipate that we will not be doing any grilling at the Hancock House. We probably should plan for sandwiches, snacks, and drinks brought in by coolers. (No alcohol!) We will have more information on that shortly.
* https://dep.nj.gov/parksandforests/state-park/hancock-house

Fort Mott : Saturday, Sunday, September 26-27, 2026
* Most immediate : We need to get back to Andy Grant at Fort Mott with the information they need to prepare our special event QSL card.
* Go back to the bunker to scope out equipment and antenna locations.
* As noted above, prepare a member sign up form.
* Later in the Summer but before the event : Identify equipment and figure out shifts.
* We will need signage and information about ham radio and the Club for the public, including information about the history of ham radio, possibly including some vintage gear if practical or pictures.
* Food is going to be available at the Historic Soldiers event, so we don't need to worry about that.
* https://dep.nj.gov/parksandforests/state-park/fort-mott-state-park
* https://soldiersweekend.com

Other Items
* Coordinate with Angela Metzger KE2DRJ on student attendance from her STEM class.
* Discuss and establish a plan for publicity for both events

I have attached a couple of slides that I had planned to send to Jon for our last Club meeting, but did not get to him on time. I will be posting these on our Discord channel shortly.

I will try to set up a Zoom meeting before the July Club meeting to go over these tasks in more detail and begin our preparation for the July 23, 2026 POTA prep meeting.

Tool Tip  #32 – DVOM Probe KitBy Chris Prioli AD2CS - chris@ad2cs.com - www.ad2cs.comFrom time to time, it becomes neces...
06/13/2026

Tool Tip #32 – DVOM Probe Kit
By Chris Prioli AD2CS - [email protected] - www.ad2cs.com

From time to time, it becomes necessary to make an electrical value measurement with something other than the standard needle-pointed meter probe with which we are all so familiar. One convenient means of doing so is to utilize the various interchangeable probe tips that are included in the Q3 probe kit that is sold for the Fluke meter family.

This handy set of probes and tips includes the usual red and black banana-plug cables with similar plug ends that fit into probe bodies, to which any of a number of different tips or working ends can be attached. The tips simply plug into the probe bodies.

The kit includes two different sizes of spring clips, miniature gripper attachments, cable-piercing probes, spade tips, and a couple of different sizes and types of interchangeable needle tips for the probe bodies. Also included in the kit is a wrench to be used in changing the probe needle tips.

These probes will work with most DVOM’s as well as with many analog sweep-needle type of meters, with the notable exception of certain Simpson models. The meter in use must accommodate safety-style banana plugs. Meters without the provision for the safety shield on the banana plugs will not accept these probes. Specifically, these probes are compatible with the Fluke T5-1000, T5-600, 301A, 301B, 301C, 301D, 302, 303, 305, 321, 323, 324, 325, 342, 362, 365, LH41A, 312, 316, 317, 318, 319, 902FC, and 771 meters.

The twenty-one-piece kit comes neatly packed in an 8cm x 5cm x 26cm (3.15” x 1.97” x 10.2”) zipper-closure storage and carrying case, making it easy to keep all of the parts and pieces together.

You can find this kit at several online marketers, including on ebay.com, where the current price at the time of writing was $32.29 plus tax and shipping. Point your browser to : https://www.ebay.com/itm/135786905416 if you want to explore this item for yourself.

GCARC Monthly VE Exam Testing Summary - June 2026By Chris Prioli AD2CSThe June 2026 GCARC VE session was held on Thursda...
06/13/2026

GCARC Monthly VE Exam Testing Summary - June 2026
By Chris Prioli AD2CS

The June 2026 GCARC VE session was held on Thursday, 11 June. The VE session was held at the W2MMD Clubhouse and was administered by Volunteer Examiners as listed below, with Chris Prioli AD2CS serving as Team Liaison for the event :
* Earl Moore KC2NCH
* John O’Connell K2QA
* Courtney Smith KD2SPJ

There were three candidates as listed below, each of whom sat for their exams as indicated in the following list. The candidates were :
* Dan Devlin KC2GYU, new Amateur Extra from Seaville, NJ
* Bob Lange KE2IRX, new Technician from Somerdale, NJ
* Connor Van Name KE2IRV, new youthful Technician from Cinnaminson, NJ

Connor Van Name KE2IRV is a 14-year-old ham now, who has been offered a no-cost Student membership in GCARC. Bob Lange and Dan Devlin are already GCARC members.

The VE Team proctored the exam session using only electronic methodologies, in accordance with our current policy.

The next regularly scheduled VE session will be held on Thursday, 9 July 2026, at 1900 Hours at the W2MMD Clubhouse. The VE team will be using the ExamTools system to its fullest capability, within our current technological means.

It is important that all test candidates going forward will be advised, whenever possible, to pre-register and pre-pay for the exam online. Specifics of that process are explained at : https://veteam.w2mmd.org

The Education Connection - July 2026By Chris Prioli AD2CS - chris@ad2cs.com - www.ad2cs.comBy the time that you read thi...
06/13/2026

The Education Connection - July 2026
By Chris Prioli AD2CS - [email protected] - www.ad2cs.com

By the time that you read this, Field Day 2026 will either be in the immediate future or it will just have passed into the rear view. Either way, the excitement - and exhaustion - of Field Day is very real, especially to those who experience it for the first time. First there is the planning stage, where a workable concept of just what your team will do and how they will do it. The planning, however, is largely over when the Friday afternoon immediately prior to the event arrives, as it is on that day that the actual ex*****on of your team plan begins to take shape. There is the placement or construction of a shelter, the preparation of your power source, the laying of cables for power. Then there is the setup of the radio and ancillary equipment inside the shelter, and of course the er****on of your antenna. Field Day often brings us some novel and interesting antenna designs, but this is a part of the whole concept, right?

After all of the setup, when everything is ready, we have the wait - hopefully it is mercifully short - for the magical time to arrive when the on-air portion of the event can begin. Then it is all hands on deck to accumulate as many QSO’s as possible, working your assigned or selected band for all you are worth. Sometimes conditions are good, and the QSO’s come easily. Other times, the band gods are not quite so good to us, and we really have to work for each and every contact made. As the Solar Cycle 25 peak moves further behind us, the band conditions promise to get worse… but still we try!

In all of this excitement and activity, please don’t forget to take some time to share some knowledge and experience with the newer hams among us. There are certain to be some first-timers out there this year, as there are every year. It is my wish that these hams who are new to Field Day come away having had a good experience, and also come away having learned something - a new skill, how to set up a radio, how to install an antenna, how to act on the air… it does not matter what - just something! At that point, Field Day 2026 will have been a success, no matter what our final scores turn out to be.

On another topic… we have another group build project coming up very soon. We are planning the build-out of a set of λ/2 end-fed antennas by several of our members. As I write this, the registration period is still open, and I anticipate it remaining open almost until the date of the event. At this point, the event is set for Saturday, 11 July. If we have sufficient registrants to require the scheduling of a second build session, that will be announced when a decision is made in that regard.

The antenna is a basic 250-watt capable end-fed dipole based upon a 49:1 impedance ratio transformer in a weathertight enclosure. Only the highest quality parts are being used, with stainless steel hardware throughout. With a price tag of $60, this antenna is a great value… plus you get the enjoyment and satisfaction of actually building it yourself. Notice that I did not mention any wavelength for this antenna build. That is because each builder will have the task of deciding what band they want to build for at the time of the actual build session.

While the registration site is still active, go to : https://registration.w2mmd.org/wpregp/end-fed-half-wave-antenna-build
to register for this event.

It is certain to be a good one.

See you next month…

My name is Chris AD2CS.  I am active in Amateur Radio in southern New Jersey, teaching ham radio classes to newcomers and experienced hams alike.  I also repair electronic equipment, primarily related to amateur radio, and I build and sell a variety of electronic devices, though I don’t really a...

The Education Connection - July 2026By Chris Prioli AD2CS - chris@ad2cs.com - www.ad2cs.comBy the time that you read thi...
06/13/2026

The Education Connection - July 2026
By Chris Prioli AD2CS - [email protected] - www.ad2cs.com

By the time that you read this, Field Day 2026 will either be in the immediate future or it will just have passed into the rear view. Either way, the excitement - and exhaustion - of Field Day is very real, especially to those who experience it for the first time. First there is the planning stage, where a workable concept of just what your team will do and how they will do it. The planning, however, is largely over when the Friday afternoon immediately prior to the event arrives, as it is on that day that the actual ex*****on of your team plan begins to take shape. There is the placement or construction of a shelter, the preparation of your power source, the laying of cables for power. Then there is the setup of the radio and ancillary equipment inside the shelter, and of course the er****on of your antenna. Field Day often brings us some novel and interesting antenna designs, but this is a part of the whole concept, right?

After all of the setup, when everything is ready, we have the wait - hopefully it is mercifully short - for the magical time to arrive when the on-air portion of the event can begin. Then it is all hands on deck to accumulate as many QSO’s as possible, working your assigned or selected band for all you are worth. Sometimes conditions are good, and the QSO’s come easily. Other times, the band gods are not quite so good to us, and we really have to work for each and every contact made. As the Solar Cycle 25 peak moves further behind us, the band conditions promise to get worse… but still we try!

In all of this excitement and activity, please don’t forget to take some time to share some knowledge and experience with the newer hams among us. There are certain to be some first-timers out there this year, as there are every year. It is my wish that these hams who are new to Field Day come away having had a good experience, and also come away having learned something - a new skill, how to set up a radio, how to install an antenna, how to act on the air… it does not matter what - just something! At that point, Field Day 2026 will have been a success, no matter what our final scores turn out to be.

On another topic… we have another group build project coming up very soon. We are planning the build-out of a set of λ/2 end-fed antennas by several of our members. As I write this, the registration period is still open, and I anticipate it remaining open almost until the date of the event. At this point, the event is set for Saturday, 11 July. If we have sufficient registrants to require the scheduling of a second build session, that will be announced when a decision is made in that regard.

The antenna is a basic 250-watt capable end-fed dipole based upon a 49:1 impedance ratio transformer in a weathertight enclosure. Only the highest quality parts are being used, with stainless steel hardware throughout. With a price tag of $60, this antenna is a great value… plus you get the enjoyment and satisfaction of actually building it yourself. Notice that I did not mention any wavelength for this antenna build. That is because each builder will have the task of deciding what band they want to build for at the time of the actual build session.

While the registration site is still active, go to : https://registration.w2mmd.org/wpregp/end-fed-half-wave-antenna-build
to register for this event.

It is certain to be a good one.

See you next month…

The upcoming GCARC End-Fed Half-Wave (EFHW) antenna build project date is almost here! This build is set for Saturday, 11 July as the July 2026 Tech Saturday Forum topic. The cost per seat is sixty dollars, and plenty of seats are still available.

From The Help Desk – July 2026By Chris Prioli AD2CS - chris@ad2cs.com - www.ad2cs.comNote : This is part of an ongoing s...
06/13/2026

From The Help Desk – July 2026
By Chris Prioli AD2CS - [email protected] - www.ad2cs.com

Note : This is part of an ongoing series of related articles that will each take a look at some facet of radio selection, installation, or operation as suggested by actual questions received from Club members or other amateur operators.

Q : I have a couple of hundred linear feet of rain gutter on my house, and I would like to use some of the gutter length to make “stealth” antennas. How can I go about doing this?

A : The main thing that you will need to do in order to “carve” your rain gutter length up into proper antenna-length sections is to come up with a means of isolating each cut section from its neighboring section of gutter. Let’s suppose that you want to make a gutter antenna for the 40-meter band. The job will involve cutting the overall gutter length into segments of the proper length, and then isolating those segments, sealing them to maintain gutter functionality, and then attaching the feedline to the segments. Finally, you will most likely end up needing a matching transformer as well. Let’s look at the various steps required to do this job.

Before we begin, we must gather the requisite supplies and tools. For supplies, you will need your feedline, some RTV sealant, some flexible H-channel, some thin (1/64” to 1/16” thick) plastic sheets roughly 2” x 12” in size, #8 or #10 ring terminals, machine screws with KEPS nuts, some sandpaper, and some liquid electrical tape. For tools, you will need a tape measure, a saw (either a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw will do, though a Dremel rotary tool with a saw blade or cutoff wheel is actually the best option), a flexible putty knife, a portable drill motor, and a set of twist bits. Of course, you will need your ladder and a source of electrical power if you are using a corded saw and/or drill motor. Ultimately, you will also want an antenna analyzer and at some point, a matching transformer, which you may end up constructing later on.

Let’s look more closely at the two “strange” bits of supply material that I itemized above - the H-channel and the plastic sheets. These only seem strange because you don’t know where I am going with them yet. Both items are available online from Amazon. The flexible plastic sheets are 8” x 12” x 0.040” thick, and will need to be cut to size. These sheets, found on the Amazon website at https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Flexible-Materials-Handicrafts-Decoration/dp/B0CCMNPWGW, are used to insulate the gutter from the drip-edge flashing that is often located above the gutter. The sheets will be slipped in between the existing drip-edge flashing and the upper edge of the gutter rear member, so as to prevent contact between the antenna segments of the gutter and the drip edge. Note that if the drip edge is vinyl, it is not necessary to insulate it from the rain gutter. The H-channel, which is not truly an H shape (see Figure 1), is meant to be cut to the proper lengths, as three pieces, so as to be slipped into the cuts between the gutter segments. The channel is found at https://www.amazon.com/Outwater-Plastic-Material-Moulding-Adhesive/dp/B07N4B15M5. Both of these plastic items are black in color, but they can be painted to match the gutter afterwards if so desired, though care must be taken to avoid paints with any metallic compounds in their formulation. Now, on to the build details.

Suppose we are shooting for the center of the overall 40-meter band, or 7.150 MHz. The math, taken in feet, looks like this : See attached formula table

Thus, a half-wave (λ/2) antenna would need to be 68.811 feet, making each segment 34.4 feet long. This equates to 34 feet, 4-3/4 inches in length. This, in turn, should be derated by about 5% to account for the greater density of the metal than that of a vacuum or even of air. Ninety-five percent of the calculated segment length above brings us to a final adjusted segment length of 32 feet, 8-1/4 inches. OK - identify the center point, where the feedline will attach, and make sure that you have adequate gutter length on each side of that point for the antenna that you want to construct. If all is good, use your saw to make a cut completely through the gutter, from the front all the way through the back face and edge of the gutter. If there is drip-edge flashing overlapping the top of the gutter, it is best to avoid cutting that, but we will need to insulate the drip-edge flashing from the gutter later on, as discussed above regarding the plastic sheets. Now, measure and mark the gutter at the proper distance from the first cut to lay out the antenna segments, and then cut them in the same manner as the first cut. Next, we will need to isolate the segments from each other and from the rest of the gutter.

This is where the H-channel comes in. Measure as best you can the length of channel that is required to fill in between the gutter segments, at the back of the gutter, across the bottom of the gutter, and up the front of the gutter, cutting three sets of these pieces (one for each cut in the gutter). Slip the channel sections in between the gutter segments with the wide face to the outside. These strips will support the gutter segments as well as maintaining separation between them electrically. Use the sandpaper to clean the inside surfaces adjacent to the H-channel strips, scrubbing down to bright metal. This is necessary to make it more likely that the RTV sealant will bond to the metal. Clean the sanding dust out of the gutter, and apply sealant to the joints, spreading it evenly with the flexible putty knife. This will allow the gutter to continue to do its primary job of handling the rainwater runoff from the roof of the house without leaking at the cut locations.

Now it is time to isolate the rain gutter from any metallic drip-edge flashing that may be present. Do this by cutting the 8” x 12” plastic sheets into 2 x 12” strips. Then, slip a strip in between the top of the rain gutter and the bottom of the drip edge, push the strips in as far as you can. Ideally, the strips will fit under the drip-edge and be trapped in place behind the vertical lip of the drip edge flashing. It may be necessary to cut a slot in the strip at the location of each nail that secures the drip-edge flashing to the roof in order to slide the plastic strip into place. Do this for the entire length of the antenna segments defined in your antenna design, thus ensuring that any metallic drip-edge flashing cannot come into contact with the metallic rain gutter within the length of the antenna.

OK - now comes the attachment of the feedline to the gutter. Prepare the end of the feedline by stripping the insulation from the wire as needed. If the feedline is coaxial cable, be sure to strip enough of the outer jacket to permit separation of the shield braid and the center conductor far enough to connect them to the two gutter segments. Using the sandpaper again, remove some paint from the gutter front or lower face in the locations where the feedline will be connected.

Install a ring terminal having a #8 or #10 ring onto each of the feedline wires. Then drill a hole in the sanded area of the gutter at each feedline attachment point. Finally, using a machine screw and KEPS nut for each terminal, secure the ring terminals to the gutter segments. Apply some liquid electrical tape compound to each of the screw attachment points and the feed line wires.

That brings us to the matching transformer. To accomplish this task, you will need to start out by measuring the impedance of the rain gutter antenna. Using that number and a targeted 50-ohm value, do some basic mathematics to determine the impedance ratio that is needed. For example, if the gutter antenna measures out to be 768 ohms of impedance, a 15:1 impedance matching transformer is required. Remember that the impedance and the turns ratio are not the same! Consider that a transformer with a 3:1 turns ratio provides a 9:1 impedance ratio. The impedance ratio is the square of the turns ratio, or, coming at it from the opposite direction, the turns ratio is the square root of the impedance ratio. Thus, the 15:1 impedance ratio of our example above ends up at a 3.87:1 turns ratio. Such a transformer would most likely need to be home-brewed, but that it not an insurmountable task.

I hope that this article helps to improve your understanding of rain gutter antenna construction. Hopefully, it will also encourage you to experiment a little bit with new and different ways of designing and building custom home-brewed antennas. Overall, it should help to remove some of the mystery, hesitation, and fear of the unknown when it comes to this type of stealth antenna.

At the Repair Bench - Simpson 260® VOMM - July 2026By Chris Prioli AD2CS - chris@ad2cs.com - www.ad2cs.comThree years ag...
06/13/2026

At the Repair Bench - Simpson 260® VOMM - July 2026
By Chris Prioli AD2CS - [email protected] - www.ad2cs.com

Three years ago, I reported in this column on the repairs I made to a Simpson 260® VOMM that had a cracked circuit board. This month, I am looking at another of these venerable multimeters, another Series 5 (?) model that had a combination of ailments (Figure 1). This meter belongs to one of my fellow GCARC members, and she was happy to have the unit repaired, as it had belonged to her father, and therefore held some sentimental value to her.

When this particular meter came to me, it was basically inoperable, though we had ascertained that it would be repairable because we determined through some basic testing that the D’Arsonval meter movement was in good condition. The meter movement is the heart of the instrument. So long as the meter movement and the rotary function switch are in serviceable condition, it really doesn’t matter what else may be wrong with the instrument… it will be repairable in the overwhelming majority of cases. However, if either of these two main components have failed, it will not be quite so simple to repair the unit. Don’t get me wrong here… it can always be repaired, but sometimes the cost will exceed the value, at which point the repair is no longer a viable option for many owners.

These meters are actually very durable while also retaining an unbelievable resiliency, making them completely able to recover from many faults that would kill a lesser VOMM. Before I go any further, lets take a minute to explain why I refer to the Simpson 260® as a VOMM. A standard multimeter includes a voltmeter and an ohmmeter, and are usually termed “VOM” for volt-ohmmeter. With many such instruments, that is then exactly what the tool offers - voltage and resistance measurements. The Simpson 260®, however, offers much more capability than that of a basic VOM, which is why its type nomenclature has been changed to VOMM, meaning “volt-ohm-milliammeter”.

The Simpson 260® VOMM incorporates three resistance ranges, four current ranges*, and five voltage ranges. Additional capability is afforded by the use of additional test lead jacks on the instrument front panel, and by the Polarity switch (Figure 2). The Polarity switch is used to effectively reverse the test lead connections while making DC voltage measurements so that the meter always reads upscale. This switch also provides the capability of making AC voltage measurements. It should also be noted that one each of the voltage and current ranges actually have dual ranges assigned, with the second range being accessed via a dedicated front-panel jack for that function.

* There is actually a fifth current “range” offered, that being a “50µA” range, which is accessed by setting the Range/Function switch to its “50V/µAmps” position, and then moving the red test lead to the “50 µAMPS” jack while the black test lead remains in the “COMMON -” jack.

As to display capability, the Series 5 version of the venerable Simpson 260® VOMM was offered both with and without an anti-parallax mirror in the scale quadrant. “Parallax error” is that error that creeps in during the reading of an analog sweep-needle meter when the meter is not viewed directly head-on and straight-in. Viewing the meter from even a slight angle will cause the apparent needle position over the scale to be other than its actual position. The mirror helps to prevent the parallax error by allowing the user to ascertain proper viewing angularity. When the meter is viewed properly, i.e., head-on and straight-in, there will be only one needle visible, as the mirrored image of the needle will be directly behind and therefore hidden by the actual meter needle. If the meter is viewed at even a slight angle, a second “needle” will appear, which is in reality the angle-offset mirror image of the sweep needle. Typically, a Simpson Series 5 meter that had a mirrored scale when it left the factory carried a model number of Simpson 260® Series 5M.

The standard Series 5 meter (Figure 3) incorporates a series of scales including a (black) decibel scale, (red) AC voltage and current scales, (black) DC voltage and current scales, and a single (black) resistance scale. At the bottom of the meter face, some important information about the instrument is provided. Some of this information will directly impact the value indicated by the meter. Other information provided there tells the user a little bit about how much accuracy can be expected from this instrument, or put another way, how much this instrument will affect the circuit to which it is connected when making voltage measurements. This is the very important “Ohms per Volt” rating of the instrument.

The “Ohms per Volt” specification tells the user what the input impedance of the instrument will be under various testing scenarios. Note, for example, that the DC rating is 20,000 ohms per volt. This means that if the user is making a measurement using the ten-volt DC Voltage scale, the input impedance of the instrument will be ten times twenty-thousand, or two-hundred-thousand ohms. This is a respectably high input impedance, which means that this instrument will have relatively little effect on the measured circuit when the meter is connected in parallel to the circuit under test, as is done when measuring voltage. The standard input impedance for most DVOM’s and also for VTVM’s and FETVOM’s is right at about ten or eleven megohms overall.

OK - enough of the descriptive data about the instrument under repair here. Let’s move on to the actual failures and repairs that were made on this particular specimen. As was noted at the time of the initial examination of the instrument, there was considerable damage done to the battery terminal leaf springs in the meter battery compartment. This version of the Simpson 260® uses one snap-top nine-volt battery and one 1.5-volt type “D” cell. The damage done was to the “D” cell compartment, with the damage being bad enough to necessitate complete replacement of the cell’s negative terminal contact.

Additionally, the instrument had had a blown (open) fuse in its fuse holder. The owner attempted to source a replacement fuse, but she was unable to obtain the correct fuse, and as a result, a fuse with an incorrect value rating was installed in the unit. That too needed to be replaced.

The funny thing about this particular Simpson 260® is that it does not seem to truly be what its front panel says that it is. You see, according to the markings on the face of the meter movement, the unit it a Series 5 model. However, according to the physical structure of the instrument internals and the battery arrangement, it would appear to be a Series 6 model. Series 6 is the first time that Simpson used the nine-volt/one point five-volt configuration. Prior to that, the battery arrangement called for a 1.5-volt and 6-volt pairing, used as a 1.5V source and then as a 7.5V source for various ohmmeter circuits. It is entirely possible that the meter movement had been replaced at some point in time with a Series 5 meter, which would account for the difference, but the instrument is clearly not a true Series 5 model.

It should be noted that Simpson actually anticipated the need to replace the negative “D” cell terminal contact at some point, because they supplied a spare contact, nestled into the 9-volt battery pocket. This spare terminal is just visible in the Figure 4 photo of the working side of the instrument. I chose not to use this spare contact, leaving it there against a future need. Instead, I fabricated a new contact from some sheet copper that I had on hand, which worked out nicely.

I installed a fuse of the correct type and value, placing a second such fuse into the spare fuse holder next to the fuse location. Next, I installed a fresh 9-volt battery and “D” cell, and set out to test the remainder of the unit. With the battery situation sorted, the ohmmeter functions all worked perfectly. The same could not be said for the voltage and current sections of the instrument. No matter how hard I tried, I simply could not get the unit to calibrate properly, and I found some other anomalies as well. For example, when inputting a DC voltage into the OUTPUT jack, a voltage was indicated on the meter. This should not happen, as all current through that port passes through a 0.1µF 400V capacitor whose sole purpose is to pass AC while blocking DC. That is why the simple test of applying a DC voltage there is so diagnostic - DC should not get past the capacitor and into the instrument. When it does, it is obvious that the capacitor has failed in a leaky condition and must be replaced.

Further problems were detected during the calibration process, when two failed resistors were identified. These are precision resistors used to establish the specific voltage ranges measured and reported by the meter. When these resistors change value over time, the meter errors that result can be both confusing and dangerous. Thus, those two resistors, R17 and R20 (Figure 5 - See Red Circle) both needed to be replaced. Once the resistors were replaced, the calibration went well and I was quickly able to bring the instrument back into top operating condition.

With all functions operating normally and all evidence of the “D” cell corrosion gone from the unit, I felt comfortable buttoning it up and returning it to its owner. These instruments, when properly cared for, can have extremely long useful lives, and will serve the user well for any and all measurements necessary for basic troubleshooting of electric and electronic circuits. Remember - before the invention of the DVOM, these analog meters were the everyday workhorses on the technician’s bench unless a meter with a higher input impedance was required, at which point the technician would switch over to the less portable VTVM.

See you next month…

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PO Box 370
Pitman, NJ
08071

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