Mar Vista Neighborhood Association (MVNA)

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Mar Vista Neighborhood Association (MVNA) The Mar Vista Neighborhood Association promotes community spirit and keeps our community informed Who Are We? We are not the Mar Vista Community Council.

(And Who Are we NOT?)

We are your Zone 4 neighbors! We want to keep and foster what makes Mar Vista so special––a neighborhood with a “small town” sensibility that sets it apart from the rest of Los Angeles. Together, we work to promote neighborliness and community spirit; improve our quality of life; secure public improvements; and keep our community informed in several ways:

• We publish a quarterly newsletter, "Mar Vista View,” for distribution to over 1400 households. We also provide an easy-to-read digital version on http://issuu.com/mvna.

• We send out out a monthly e-newsletter with upcoming events in our area. Sign up at https://www.facebook.com/MarVistaNeighbors/app_141428856257.

• We maintain this active FaceBook page, updated daily with news and events, and a Twitter feed ().

• Each summer, we throw a giant potluck block party with live music, crafts for kids, tons of wonderful food and an atmosphere that makes it impossible to not make new friends. Don’t miss it!

• In January we hold our annual town hall meeting so neighbors can meet and speak with our elected officials and law enforcement representatives.

• In the autumn we throw an appreciation party for the many volunteers and MVNA “ambassadors” who distribute our quarterly newsletter and make our block party a success.
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Who Are We Not? The MVCC communicates with the City of LA and includes all 6 Mar Vista zones. Zoning, laws, and other city-mandated legal issues, while important to us as residents, are handled by MVCC, as they are the legal stewards appointed by the city and elected by Mar Vistans to deal with these. What we at MVNA can do is help point you in the direction of the proper MVCC representatives. The MVCC website is http://www.marvista.org.

10/13/2026
10/10/2026
10/10/2026

Your houseplant's soil can tell you a lot about what is happening below the surface. A few common sights, like white crust, tiny flying insects, or even a surprise mushroom, are clues about watering habits, humidity, and the health of your potting mix. Most are easy to fix once you know what you are looking at.

White crust on the soil surface or around the rim of the pot is usually a buildup of mineral salts. Every time you water, tap water leaves behind small amounts of dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium, and fertilizers add salts of their own. As water evaporates from the surface, those minerals get left behind and slowly accumulate. Over time, high salt levels can damage roots and cause brown, crispy leaf tips. The fix is simple: every few months, water slowly and thoroughly, letting a generous amount run out the drainage holes to flush excess salts away. Scraping off the crusty top layer helps too. If you fertilize often, cutting back or diluting your fertilizer can prevent it from coming back.

Hard, cracked soil that pulls away from the sides of the pot means the potting mix has dried out completely. Many potting mixes are made with peat moss, which becomes water repellent, or hydrophobic, when it dries out fully. Instead of soaking in, water runs straight down the gaps between the soil and the pot and out the bottom, leaving the root ball dry even though water came out the drainage holes. To rehydrate it, set the pot in a tub or sink of water for 20 to 30 minutes and let it soak up from the bottom, or water slowly in several small passes, giving the soil time to absorb it.

Fungus gnats are the tiny, dark flies that hover around houseplants and seem to multiply overnight. The adults are mostly a nuisance, but their larvae live in the top couple of inches of soil, feeding on fungi and decaying organic matter, and sometimes on tender roots. They thrive in soil that stays consistently moist. Letting the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings interrupts their life cycle. Yellow sticky traps catch adults, but they do not reach the larvae. For stubborn infestations, products containing BTi, a naturally occurring bacterium that targets gnat larvae, can be watered into the soil.

White fuzzy mold on the surface looks alarming, but it is usually a harmless fungus feeding on organic material in the potting mix. It is a sign that the soil is staying wet for long periods with little airflow. Scrape it off, let the soil dry more between waterings, and improve air circulation around the plant. It is different from salt crust: mold looks fluffy or cottony, while mineral deposits look crusty and crystalline.

Mushrooms popping up in a houseplant pot are a sign of warm, humid conditions and consistently moist soil. One of the most common is the yellow houseplant mushroom, which arrives as spores in the potting mix. Mushrooms do not harm the plant itself, and they are simply feeding on organic matter. However, many are toxic if eaten, so if you have curious pets or small children, it is best to pull them as soon as they appear. Allowing the soil to dry out a bit more between waterings will reduce how often they return.

Exposed roots at the surface usually mean the potting mix has settled, compacted, or washed away over time. Adding a fresh layer of potting mix to cover them helps protect the roots from drying out. If roots are also circling the pot or growing out of the drainage holes, the plant may simply need a bigger pot. Keep in mind that some plants, like many orchids and aroids, naturally produce roots above the soil, and those do not need to be buried.

Paying attention to the soil surface is one of the easiest ways to catch problems early and adjust your care before your plant ever shows signs of stress. 🪴🌱

10/06/2026

Stop Letting Free Water Go to Waste: How to Slow, Spread, and Sink Rainwater

During a heavy rain, have you ever noticed how much water pours out of your downspouts and straight into the street?
That runoff represents wasted resources that could be nourishing your landscape instead.

The example below shows a simple yet highly effective Low-Impact Development (LID) technique used in a backyard.
This method—often called a bioswale or infiltration trench—transforms rainwater from a flooding nuisance into a powerful garden asset.

What Is Happening in This Setup?
Rather than allowing the gutter to release water onto a driveway or splash block, the homeowner uses a downspout extender to guide the flow into a gently curved, hand-dug trench.
The Trench (Swale): This shallow channel temporarily collects rainwater.
The Berms: Soil removed from the trench is mounded along the sides, forming raised planting areas.
The Outcome: Water gathers in the trench, slows down, spreads out, and gradually sinks into the soil.
Plants on the berms benefit from deep, natural irrigation.

Why Use This Method?
This approach follows a core permaculture principle: slow the water, spread it across the landscape, and let it sink into the ground.

Natural Irrigation: Every rainfall provides free watering. Because the moisture infiltrates deeply, plants develop sturdy, resilient root systems.

Flood Prevention: Capturing water where it lands keeps it away from vulnerable areas like foundations and reduces stress on municipal stormwater systems.

Pollution Reduction: Instead of sweeping debris and chemicals into local waterways, the soil filters the water as it sinks.

Improved Drought Resistance:
The soil acts as a reservoir.
After a significant storm, moisture can remain available to plants long after the rain has stopped.

How to Build One Yourself
Step 1: Observe
Watch where water naturally flows during a storm.
Keep any swale at least ten feet away from your home’s foundation, and avoid steep slopes unless you have expert guidance.

Step 2: Dig the Swale
Create a trench approximately 6 to 12 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches wide.
Digging on level ground allows water to pool and soak in.
Adding a slight slope (around 1 percent) directs water toward another feature, such as a rain garden or pond.

Step 3: Build the Berm
Place the soil you removed from the trench onto the downhill side, forming a ridge that holds the water in place.

Step 4: Plant the Area
In the trench, choose plants that prefer damp conditions, such as sedges or rushes.
You can also fill the swale with gravel or mulch if you want to use it as a path.
On the berm, plant species that will appreciate the deeper moisture.
This area is ideal for vegetables, berry bushes, or pollinator-friendly choices.

Step 5: Apply Mulch Generously
Covering exposed soil with wood chips or straw prevents erosion and helps retain moisture throughout the system.

10/06/2026

The single watering habit that fixes the most garden problems: water deeply and less often instead of lightly every day. 🌿

Shallow, frequent watering keeps roots near the surface where they're vulnerable to heat and drought stress. A deep soak — slow enough that water reaches 6 inches down — pushes roots to follow moisture deeper into the soil, where temperatures are more stable and water lasts longer.

The other six tips on this graphic are worth saving too, but they mostly come down to three principles:

- Timing: Morning is best — foliage dries before evening, which cuts fungal disease risk significantly
- Delivery: Aim at the soil, not the leaves; wet foliage is where powdery mildew and blight get their start
- Match the tool to the plant: seedlings and delicate herbs need a soft mist or a gentle rose head, not a blast from a hose nozzle; containers need a good soak but need to fully drain before the next one

The most common overwatering mistake happens in containers — pots hold moisture longer than in-ground beds, and roots sitting in saturated soil lose oxygen fast. Check the top inch of soil before reaching for the watering can. ☀️

Get the watering right and almost everything else in the garden gets easier. 🪴

Address

Mar Vista, CA
90066

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