Ken Craig Community Garden

Ken Craig Community Garden A local community garden to provide, to educate, and to strengthen our community.

05/30/2026

Hey everyone. We have some leftover plants. Peppers, tomatoes, and some flowers. We will be at the Nazarene church at 5 - 6 today if anyone is interested in them. Just asking for a donation to the garden.

05/26/2026

Pepper Plant Care

Pepper plants are productive, flavorful garden favorites that thrive in gardens across the world. When their basic needs are met consistently, they can produce bountiful harvests. Whether you are growing sweet bell peppers or hot varieties, the keys to success are warm temperatures, full sun, well-drained soil, and even moisture. With the right routine, pepper plants can produce steadily for weeks and reward gardeners with colorful, healthy fruit.

Peppers grow best in full sun, with at least six to eight hours of direct light each day. They prefer warm conditions and generally perform best when daytime temperatures are mild to warm and nights stay above about 60ยฐF. Cold soil and chilly nights can slow growth, while extreme heat may cause blossoms to drop before fruit sets. For the healthiest plants, use rich, fertile soil that drains well and has plenty of organic matter mixed in. Good airflow also matters, so avoid crowding plants and give them enough space to reduce humidity around the leaves.

Watering and feeding are essential for all garden veggies. Peppers are no different. Pepper plants need consistent moisture, especially once they begin flowering and setting fruit. Water deeply so moisture reaches the root zone, but do not leave the soil soggy, since oversaturated roots can lead to disease. Irregular watering can contribute to blossom end rot; a common problem linked to uneven moisture and poor calcium uptake. Adding mulch around the base of the plant helps hold moisture, reduce temperature swings, and cut down on weeds. During the growing season, feed peppers regularly with a balanced fertilizer or one formulated for vegetables; avoid overdoing nitrogen, which can produce lots of leaves but fewer peppers.

Although peppers are fairly easy to grow, they can run into a few common issues. Aphids and flea beetles may damage leaves and weaken young plants, so regular inspection is important. Many gardeners also see blossom end rot, which often appears when watering is inconsistent. In very hot weather, fruits can suffer from sunscald, and flowers may drop if temperatures climb too high. The best prevention is steady watering, healthy soil, proper spacing, and checking plants often, so problems are caught early before they spread.

One important tip with peppers that most gardeners donโ€™t know is that topping your peppers early in the season will help them tremendously. Have you ever noticed that your young pepper plants will flower and fruit early in the season? The plants will flower at about 10-12 inches tall. Most of the time they will produce 1-2 fruits and that is it. Typically, the fruit matures and is too heavy for small plants. We can remedy this by cutting the top sprout of the plant. After there are 2-3 true sets of leaves, you can snip the very top and center of the stem. This will remove the new tender leaves and any early flower buds. What this does is it tells the plant to produce more roots and foliage on the plants. You can do this up to 2-3 times early in the season. This causes your pepper plants to become big and bushy. The true benefit is the number of flowers and fruits. Instead of 1-2 peppers on a small plant, you can get up to 12-20 fruits, depending on the variety.

Peppers can be harvested green for a firmer texture and milder flavor, or left on the plant to fully ripen for more sweetness, color, and heat depending on the variety. Pick fruit regularly with clean scissors or pruners to avoid damaging stems and to encourage continued production. If plants become heavy with fruit, a small stake or cage can help support the branches. With warmth, sunlight, and steady care, pepper plants can remain productive for much of the growing season.

Successful pepper plant care comes down to consistency. When gardeners provide enough sun, warm conditions, steady water, and routine feeding, pepper plants respond with vigorous growth and a generous harvest.

Happy gardening!

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05/25/2026

๐ŸŒฟ The garden's most effective pest management team is already present in or adjacent to every temperate garden. It does not require purchasing, ordering, or importing. It requires only the specific management decisions that allow it to establish, survive, and reproduce in the garden environment. The ladybird that eats 60 aphids per day. The lacewing larva that eats 400 aphids per week. The ground beetle that hunts slug eggs in the soil. The parasitoid wasp that lays its eggs inside living aphids, converting each parasitised aphid into the nursery for the next generation of parasitoids. These are not incidental visitors to the garden. They are the functional pest management workforce of the natural ecosystem, present wherever the conditions that support them are maintained and absent wherever the conditions that support them are destroyed.
The most common cause of beneficial insect absence from gardens where they should be present is not pesticide use, though pesticide use is a significant cause. It is the absence of the specific habitat features that each beneficial insect group requires for its non-predatory life stages: the overwintering shelter of the ladybird, the egg-laying site of the lacewing, the adult nectar source of the parasitoid wasp, the undisturbed soil of the ground beetle. A garden that provides only the pest species that the beneficial insects feed on but none of the habitat that supports the non-feeding stages of their life cycles has created a dining room without a bedroom, a kitchen, or a nursery. The beneficial insects arrive, feed, and leave rather than establishing the resident populations that provide continuous pest pressure reduction through the season.
The identification of these ten beneficial insects is the foundation of the management decisions that support them, because you cannot manage for what you cannot identify and you cannot avoid killing what you do not recognise. The ladybird larva, which is the most voracious aphid predator per individual of any commonly encountered garden insect, is not recognisable as a ladybird to anyone who has not specifically learned to identify it. It looks like a small, black-and-orange, slightly spiky, unfamiliar insect that many gardeners remove or kill on sight. It is the larval stage of the beneficial insect they most want to encourage.
Here is the complete identification and habitat guide for all ten ๐Ÿ‘‡

THE TEN BENEFICIAL INSECTS:
๐ŸŒฟ 1. Ladybird adult and larva โ€” Coccinellidae
The adult ladybird in its most familiar forms, the seven-spot Coccinella septempunctata and the two-spot Adalia bipunctata, is the most widely recognised beneficial garden insect and requires no identification guidance for most gardeners. The adult is a voracious aphid predator, consuming 50 to 60 aphids per day during the spring and summer aphid season, and a significant consumer of scale insects, mites, and other small soft-bodied pest insects.
The ladybird larva, which is the garden insect most consistently misidentified and most consistently killed by gardeners who do not recognise it, is an elongated, slightly flattened, black insect with orange to yellow markings arranged in pairs along the body length. At 5 to 8 millimetres when approaching its final instar it looks nothing like the adult ladybird it will become. It is frequently described by gardeners who encounter it for the first time as a strange-looking beetle larva or an unfamiliar pest. It is in fact a more voracious aphid predator than the adult, consuming up to 200 aphids per larval development period before pupating.
The management support for ladybirds requires overwintering shelter provision: the hollow stems of umbellifers and other herbaceous plants left standing through winter, the crevices in bark and dead wood where ladybird groups overwinter communally, and the insect hotel structures that specifically accommodate the overwintering requirements of ladybirds. Ladybirds begin overwintering site selection in September and October, making the provision of appropriate shelter structures before this period the critical timing for supporting the following season's ladybird population.
๐ŸŒฟ 2. Lacewing adult and larva โ€” Chrysoperla carnea
The adult green lacewing is a delicate, pale green insect with large, veined, transparent wings that are held tent-like over its body at rest. Its large, golden, compound eyes reflect light in the characteristic way that makes the adult lacewing immediately identifiable to anyone who encounters it on a garden plant surface or on a window pane where it has been attracted by indoor light.
The lacewing larva is the most destructive aphid predator per individual available in the garden insect community, consuming up to 400 aphids, scale insects, thrips, and small caterpillars during its larval development period. Like the ladybird larva it is entirely unlike the adult in appearance, being a small, brownish, slightly elongated insect with curved, sickle-shaped mandibles that it uses to seize and consume its prey. Some lacewing larva species camouflage themselves by draping the drained bodies of their consumed prey across their own backs, giving them a dusty, debris-covered appearance that makes them difficult to recognise as predatory insects.
The management support for lacewings requires the provision of adult food sources, as adult lacewings are not predatory but feed on nectar and pollen, requiring these resources to survive and reproduce. The umbellifers, including fennel, dill, and cow parsley, are among the most important adult lacewing food sources and should be allowed to flower in or adjacent to the productive garden. Lacewing larvae overwinter in sheltered sites similar to ladybirds, and the insect hotel structures that support ladybird overwintering simultaneously support lacewing overwintering populations.
๐ŸŒฟ 3. Ground beetle โ€” Carabidae family
The ground beetles are a large family of insects whose many species are collectively among the most important soil-level predators of slug eggs, slug juveniles, vine weevil larvae, soil-dwelling pest insect pupae, and aphids that have fallen from plant stems. The common ground beetles encountered in garden soil include the large black Pterostichus madidus, the smaller and faster Nebria brevicollis, and several other species that together form a diverse predator community operating at the soil surface and in the upper soil layers.
Ground beetles are nocturnal hunters, spending the day in sheltered positions under stones, logs, and dense ground cover vegetation and emerging at night to hunt prey at the soil surface. Their hunting activity peaks in the same conditions that bring slugs to the surface, cool and moist nights in spring and autumn, making them natural biological controls that are most active precisely when slug pressure is highest.
The management support for ground beetles is the provision of undisturbed ground cover in which they can shelter, hunt, and breed. The log pile at the garden's edge, the dense patch of ground cover planting beside the productive beds, and the undisturbed leaf litter beneath hedges all provide ground beetle habitat. Cultivated soil, which is regularly disturbed, provides poor ground beetle habitat because it eliminates the stable structural features that ground beetles require for shelter and disrupts the prey populations in the surface soil layer that they depend on.
๐ŸŒฟ 4. Parasitoid wasp โ€” Aphidius and related genera
The parasitoid wasps of the Aphidius genus are tiny insects, typically 2 to 4 millimetres in length, that are invisible to most gardeners even when actively present in the garden in significant numbers. The adult female parasitoid wasp locates an aphid colony, inserts her ovipositor into individual aphids, and lays a single egg within each parasitised aphid. The developing wasp larva feeds from within the living aphid, killing it from inside and producing the characteristic golden-brown, slightly inflated, papery-looking aphid mummies that indicate successful parasitoid activity in the colony.
The population impact of parasitoid wasps on aphid colonies is significant and has been the subject of considerable research. A single Aphidius ervi female, parasitising the pea aphid Acyrthosiphon pisum, can parasitise 200 to 300 individual aphids during her reproductive lifespan. The parasitised aphids cease feeding and reproduction before they die, reducing their contribution to the colony's population growth as well as eventually dying from the larval development within them.
The adult parasitoid wasp, like the adult lacewing, is not predatory and requires nectar and pollen for its own energy requirements. The umbellifers documented in the companion planting science post are specifically valuable as adult parasitoid wasp food plants because their flat-topped flower heads provide the shallow nectaries that the parasitoid wasp's short mouthparts can access. The absence of umbellifers in flower near the aphid-susceptible crops is the single most consistently cited garden management failure in the biological control literature on parasitoid wasp support.
๐ŸŒฟ 5. Hoverfly โ€” Syrphidae family
The hoverfly adults, which are the bees-and-wasps mimics that hover motionless in mid-air then dart rapidly to a new position, are important pollinators of open-structured flowers and are the insects most commonly misidentified as bees or wasps by gardeners who observe them on flowers. The hoverfly's bee and wasp mimicry, which provides it with protection from predators that avoid stinging insects, is visual only: hoverflies cannot sting and are entirely harmless.
The hoverfly larva is the pest management contribution of the hoverfly to the garden. Hoverfly larvae of the aphid-feeding species, including the common Episyrphus balteatus and several related species, feed voraciously on aphid colonies, consuming individual aphids at rates comparable to lacewing larvae and consuming large proportions of established aphid colonies during their larval development.
The adult hoverfly's pollination contribution is distinct from and in addition to its larval pest management contribution, making the hoverfly unique among the ten beneficial insects in providing two simultaneously valuable ecosystem services from the same individual across its different life stages. The garden that supports hoverflies supports both pollination and aphid control simultaneously.
๐ŸŒฟ 6. Soldier beetle โ€” Cantharis rustica
The soldier beetle is a soft-winged beetle of 10 to 15 millimetres, typically dark brown to black with orange-red markings on the thorax, that is commonly found on open flower heads in July and August where it feeds on nectar and pollen as an adult. Its larval stage is a predator of soil-dwelling insects including aphid eggs, small caterpillars, and soft-bodied soil insects, making it a dual-function beneficial insect with adult pollination and larval predation roles analogous to the hoverfly.
The soldier beetle is among the most easily observed of the ten beneficial insects because of its habit of remaining visible on open flower heads through the warmest parts of summer days, its distinctive orange-and-black colouration making it identifiable once its characteristic appearance is learned.
๐ŸŒฟ 7. Earwig โ€” Forficula auricularia
The earwig is the most misunderstood of the ten beneficial insects because it is a genuine generalist feeder that consumes both plant material and pest insects, making it simultaneously a minor garden pest and a significant aphid predator depending on its population level and the availability of alternative food sources.
Research from UK and Swiss institutions has consistently found that earwig populations in fruit orchards and gardens with high aphid pressure preferentially feed on aphids over plant material, making them net beneficial insects in pest management terms at the population levels found in most domestic gardens. The earwig's reputation for damaging dahlias and other soft-petalled flowers is based on its documented feeding on these flowers but does not reflect its total ecological impact, which includes significant consumption of aphids, small caterpillars, and other soft-bodied insects through the season.
The management support for earwigs is simple and requires only the provision of the upturned pot on a cane filled with straw or dry material that earwig communities use as daytime shelter. These simple earwig shelters, placed near susceptible fruit trees and aphid-prone plants, concentrate earwig populations adjacent to the plants where their aphid predation is most needed.
๐ŸŒฟ 8. Centipede โ€” Lithobius forficatus
The centipede, distinguished from the millipede by its single pair of legs per body segment rather than the millipede's two pairs, is a predatory soil organism that hunts and consumes small insects, insect larvae, slug eggs, and small slugs in the upper soil layers and in the surface debris where it is most active at night.
The identification distinction between centipede and millipede is important for garden management because the millipede is a decomposer that is entirely beneficial, while the centipede is a predator, and neither should be killed on sight. The centipede moves rapidly and fluidly, its many legs providing the fast, sinuous movement characteristic of a predator pursuing prey. The millipede moves slowly and curls into a defensive ball when disturbed rather than fleeing rapidly.
๐ŸŒฟ 9. Rove beetle โ€” Staphylinidae family
The rove beetles are a large and diverse family of beetles whose members include many of the garden soil's most important predators of aphid eggs, small insect larvae, and soil-dwelling pest species. The devil's coach horse Ocypus olens is the most familiar rove beetle species, its large size of 20 to 30 millimetres and its defensive posture of raising the tail end of its body in a scorpion-like threat display making it immediately recognisable.
The rove beetles in the upper soil and surface debris layer contribute significantly to the predation of aphid eggs, vine weevil larvae, and the eggs and early instar larvae of several garden pest insects. Their presence in high density is a reliable indicator of good soil biological activity and is associated with reduced pest pressure in the upper soil layer.
๐ŸŒฟ 10. Bumblebee โ€” Bombus species
The bumblebee's primary contribution is pollination rather than pest predation, its inclusion in the beneficial insect ten reflecting the critical importance of its pollination service to fruit set in the kitchen garden and the specific adaptations that make bumblebees more effective pollinators of certain flower types than honeybees or solitary bees.
Bumblebees are capable of buzz pollination, the vibration of their flight muscles at a frequency that shakes pollen from the anthers of flowers with tubular or enclosed anther structures including tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, and blueberries. This buzz pollination mechanism is why bumblebee-pollinated tomatoes in polytunnels consistently produce higher fruit set than hand-pollinated or wind-pollinated equivalent plants, and why bumblebee presence in the kitchen garden is directly correlated with tomato and pepper yield in most research studies that have measured the relationship.

THE HABITAT PROVISION GUIDE:
๐ŸŒฟ The five habitat elements that support all ten
Providing all five of these habitat elements in the garden simultaneously supports all ten beneficial insect groups and produces the resident predator and pollinator community that reduces pest pressure through the season without requiring purchased inputs.
Umbellifers in flower: fennel, dill, cow parsley, and related plants provide adult food for parasitoid wasps, lacewings, hoverflies, and soldier beetles simultaneously.
Dead wood and log pile: provides overwintering shelter for ladybirds and lacewings and hunting habitat for ground beetles, rove beetles, and centipedes.
Undisturbed ground cover: dense, low-growing vegetation and leaf litter provides shelter for ground beetles, earwigs, centipedes, and rove beetles.
Hollow stem structures: standing hollow stems of umbellifers and grasses through winter provide overwintering sites for solitary bees and shelter for overwintering beneficial insects of multiple species.
Chemical avoidance: the absence of broad-spectrum insecticide use is the single most impactful management decision for beneficial insect populations because no habitat provision compensates for the regular chemical elimination of the resident beneficial community.

They are already trying to help. The garden management that supports them converts a visiting predator into a resident workforce.
๐ŸŒฟ Save this. Identify which of the ten beneficial insects you have seen in your garden this season and which habitat elements from the five above are currently absent from your garden. The absence of a habitat element is the explanation for the absence of the beneficial insect that requires it.
๐Ÿ‘‡ Which beneficial insect do you most reliably observe in your garden and which habitat provision produced the most noticeable increase in its presence? Tell me the insect and the habitat change because the real-garden beneficial insect observation and habitat provision reports are the most practically useful evidence available for which interventions actually work in real growing conditions.

05/25/2026
05/24/2026

The seed industry has one business model: make sure you come back next year.
Hybrid seeds are engineered to grow once and either fail to reproduce or produce something inferior the following season. You are not buying seeds. You are buying a subscription you never agreed to.

Open-pollinated and heirloom varieties work differently. You save the seed, plant it next year, and the plant slowly adapts to your soil and climate over generations.

- TOMATO: ferment seeds in water two days, rinse, dry, store in a jar. Four years of viability from one afternoon of work.

- BEANS: leave pods on the plant until they rattle. Shell, dry, plant next spring. The simplest seed crop on earth.

- PEPPER: wait until fully colored, never green. Scrape, dry two weeks, refrigerate. Two years viable.

- CUCUMBER: leave one fruit until yellow and soft. Five years of viability from seeds most people throw away.

- SQUASH: scoop, rinse, dry flat. Keep varieties separated or they cross-pollinate.

- LETTUCE: let one plant bolt deliberately. One plant produces enough seed for an entire row.

- PEAS: leave pods until brown and crispy. Shell, dry two more weeks indoors, store in an envelope.

- KALE: one plant produces thousands of seeds. Cut the stalk when pods turn tan, dry in a paper bag.

The seed catalog is a convenience. It was never supposed to be a necessity.

05/18/2026

๐Ÿ˜

05/18/2026

Your plant usually tells you exactly whatโ€™s attacking itโ€ฆif you know how to read the evidence.

A few clues are surprisingly distinctive: stippling + fine webbing almost always points to spider mites, silvery streaking is classic thrips feeding damage, and those mysterious winding tunnels inside leaves? Thatโ€™s leafminers feeding between the leaf surfaces. Ragged chewing plus little black droppings (frass) usually means caterpillars moved in for dinner.

But not every hole means war.

Those neat semicircle cutouts along leaf edges are often from leafcutter beesโ€”and theyโ€™re actually beneficial native pollinators using those pieces to build nests. No treatment needed. On the other hand, shotgun-style tiny holes on seedlings can be flea beetles, which can seriously hammer young vegetable transplants.

A few other classic calling cards:

โ€ข Clean round holes: often slugs/snails, especially if damage appears overnight or after damp weather
โ€ข Stem hole + frass: vine borer warning, especially in squash
โ€ข Rolled leaves: often leafrollers hiding inside
โ€ข Entire plants stripped overnight: deer, rabbits, or occasionally very hungry caterpillars depending on the damage pattern
โ€ข Curled distorted sticky growth: aphids, thanks to sap feeding + honeydew

The biggest gardening mistake? Spraying first and diagnosing later.

Misidentifying the culprit can waste time, harm beneficial insects, and still leave the actual problem untouched. The damage pattern is often more reliable than catching the pest in the act.

Read the evidence before reaching for the spray bottle.

Sources:

University of California IPM โ€“ Spider mites, aphids, thrips, leafminers, flea beetles, leafrollers, vine borers
Cornell Cooperative Extension โ€“ Diagnosing insect feeding damage on plants
University of Minnesota Extension โ€“ Managing common garden insect pests
Xerces Society โ€“ Leafcutter bees as beneficial native pollinators

https://ipm.ucanr.edu

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1801 S. Heaton
Knox, IN
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