Kewaunee County Garden Club

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Kewaunee County Garden Club It is the mission of the Kewaunee County Garden Club to support the horticulture efforts of the peop

https://wigardenexpo.com/live/Here is a link to the 2026 on demand lectures featured at the WPT Garden expo in case you ...
10/05/2026

https://wigardenexpo.com/live/
Here is a link to the 2026 on demand lectures featured at the WPT Garden expo in case you missed attending or want to refamiliarize the content you experienced.

The dates are fixed for 2027, February 12-14. We will be hosting a bus trip on that Saturday the 13th. Stay tuned for more detais.

Livestream Welcome to the PBS Wisconsin’s Garden & Green Living Expo Livestream! View the full in-person schedule of educational lectures and demonstrations. If you can help support our efforts to produce virtual offerings, please consider donating here. You can also view additional Garden Expo co...

Through Facebook I found the Climate Change Coalition in Door County.  They have a plant sale in fall featuring native t...
10/03/2026

Through Facebook I found the Climate Change Coalition in Door County. They have a plant sale in fall featuring native trees shrubs and perennials. I purchased 2 Tamarack trees that were advertised 4-6' tall for $75.00 each. With garden center prices skyrocketing I thought that was a very fair price. When I drove up to Baileys Harbor I was pleasantly surprised to get 7-8' tall trees that were well branched with a great root structure. They try to provide a different offering each year and asked my opinion on what I woud liike to see for 2027. You can see on their website that they plant 10,000 trees per year so far the grand total is over 52,000 trees in Door County. I will be following their progress with great anticipation.

Join us – Get Involved! Join us – Get Involved! Taking Action for a More Resilient Door County Our Climate Work in Door CountyWe bring individuals, businesses, governments and organizations together to lead collective community efforts that help ensure a climate-resilient Door County. Everyone h...

10/03/2026
10/03/2026

Elderberry (Sambucus spp.)

Elderberry was one of the first plants I learned to identify. My father made elderberry w**e and my mother made an elderberry preserve, and as a child I sometimes helped pick the berries. So I wasn’t surprised later when I learned how valuable it is in the native ecosystem or how common it is across Wisconsin.

Elderberry is a dependable native shrub throughout the Midwest, especially along the wet edges of prairies, floodplains, and woodland margins in southern Wisconsin. Its broad ecological reach makes it useful in restoration work. The flowers draw a wide mix of pollinators—bees, flies, beetles, and butterflies—and the shrub serves as a host plant for several moth species. Spring azures use it as well. Elderberry’s flat white flower clusters give them an easy landing platform, and on warm mornings in early summer you can sometimes catch an azure settling briefly on a bloom before lifting off again. The berries ripen later in the season and are taken quickly by birds. Robins, catbirds, cedar waxwings, bluebirds, and cardinals all feed on them, along with many other species that move through wet thickets and stream corridors.

Elderberry’s root system spreads through the soil in a way that helps hold banks and slopes together. In places where water moves quickly after storms, these shrubs slow the flow and steady the ground. Their tendency to form colonies makes them useful in naturalized plantings where stability and wildlife value matter more than ornamental shape.

The stems play a quieter role in the landscape. Elderberry has a soft, pithy center, and that structure is used by small carpenter bees and other cavity‑nesting species. Female bees excavate the pith to make narrow tunnels, dividing them into chambers and stocking each one with pollen and nectar for their young. The larvae develop inside the stem and overwinter there, emerging the following season. Because these bees rely on standing dead stems, it helps to leave elderberry canes in place through the growing season and cut them back only after the weather turns cold.

You can usually tell when bees are using the stems. Small round holes—about the width of a pencil lead—appear along the length of older canes. During warm months you may see bees entering or leaving these openings. Pruning in late fall or early winter avoids disturbing active nests and keeps the stems available for the next generation.

Sources:

ASMSA Garden Guide – Sambucus canadensis

North Carolina Extension Gardener – Sambucus canadensis

Penn State Extension – Elderberry in the Garden and the Kitchen.

The edible forms of sumac are the red‑berried species—primarily staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina), smooth sumac (Rhus glabra...
09/11/2026

The edible forms of sumac are the red‑berried species—primarily staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina), smooth sumac (Rhus glabra), winged sumac (Rhus copallinum), and Sicilian sumac (Rhus coriaria)—all of which produce upright, fuzzy red berry clusters used for tart drinks and spices.

Best trees for bees
09/10/2026

Best trees for bees

Planting bee-friendly trees is an excellent way to help reverse the decline in worldwide bee numbers. We reveal 22 trees rich in nectar and pollen.

09/10/2026

Getting Rid of Japanese Knotweed Naturally

The canes rise in tight columns, pale green and jointed, and the leaves stack themselves like shingles, catching the light in a way that makes the whole stand look solid from a distance. Step closer and the air changes. It’s still, humid, with that faint earthy sweetness you get when a plant grows faster than everything around it. Push into the edge and the stems knock together with a hollow clatter. The ground underneath is bare, almost dusty, as if the colony has pulled every bit of light and moisture into itself.

That’s the moment you understand what you’re dealing with. Japanese knotweed isn’t a shrub or a tangle of vines. It’s a perennial colony built on a deep rhizome system that stores more energy than most native plants can muster. The summer canes are just the visible part of an underground engine. Every shoot you see is drawing from that reservoir, and every leaf is feeding it. That’s why the plant grows so quickly, why it stands so dense, and why it holds its ground even in places where shade should slow it.

Once you know that, its behavior makes sense. Knotweed spreads by fragments. A piece of rhizome the size of a fingertip can start a new colony. Floods move it downstream. Road graders push it from one roadside to another. Soil piles carry it to construction sites. When it finds a bit of open ground, it rises fast, forming a wall of stems that blocks out nearly all light. Spring ephemerals vanish. Sedges vanish. Young trees vanish. Even dogwood and hazelnut, which can handle competition, struggle to get a foothold. The colony becomes a monoculture that collapses quickly once senescence begins, leaving the ground exposed sooner than native shrubs would. Along streams, that exposed soil erodes easily, which is why knotweed often expands after high water events.

How to get rid of it naturally? The honest answer is that knotweed doesn’t respond to casual effort. People who use herbicides have an easier path, because they can reach the rhizomes chemically. But for those who won’t use herbicides at all, the work is slower and more hands‑on. Cutting it once or twice just feeds the rhizomes. Digging works only on tiny new patches. Smothering works only when the barrier is heavy, opaque, and left in place for years. Light shading slows knotweed but doesn’t weaken it much; only deep, long‑term exclusion makes a difference. Even the most persistent non‑chemical methods have to be repeated season after season because the rhizomes store so much energy. The plant only weakens when you interrupt that energy flow over and over, steadily enough that the underground system begins to shrink.

But knotweed isn’t invincible. It can be weakened. It can be pushed back. It can be removed from small sites before it becomes a permanent fixture. The key is steady pressure. Every time you cut the shoots, you interrupt photosynthesis and force the plant to draw on its reserves. Every time you deny light absolutely, you slow its ability to rebuild. Over months and years, the rhizomes shrink. Once they’re weakened, native shrubs and grasses can reclaim the space, and the site begins to behave like Wisconsin again.

The challenge is that knotweed demands patience. It doesn’t collapse quickly the way buckthorn does after a good winter pull. It doesn’t fade the way garlic mustard does after a few seasons of seed‑bank depletion. Knotweed fights from underground, and it fights slowly. But if you understand it—fast growth above, slow depletion below—you can work with that. You can keep cutting. You can keep shading. You can keep watching the edges. You can eventually turn a knotweed patch back into a place where native plants can take hold again.

Sources:

Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources — Japanese Knotweed Biology and Spread

University of Wisconsin–Extension — Japanese Knotweed: Ecology and Management

North American Invasive Species Management Association — Invasive Knotweeds: Best Management Practices

USDA Forest Service — Biology and Control of Japanese Knotweed

Royal Horticultural Society — Japanese Knotweed Identification and Control

Washington State Noxious W**d Control Board — Managing Knotweed Without Herbicides

U.S. Geological Survey — Impacts of Knotweed on Riparian Systems

Centre for Ecology & Hydrology — Knotweed Rhizome Structure and Regrowth

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96 Ellis St
Kewaunee, WI
54216

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