Grants Pass Garden Club - Oregon

Grants Pass Garden Club - Oregon The Grants Pass Garden Club brings together plant lovers of every kind to learn, teach, and grow together!

05/05/2026

THIS SATURDAY!!!!!!

 Plant sale and cookie saleis now open! We’ll be at the Josephine County Fairgounds (Floral Building) until 3 PM today...
04/25/2026

 Plant sale and cookie saleis now open! We’ll be at the Josephine County Fairgounds (Floral Building) until 3 PM today!

04/25/2026

The lilac's response to cutting runs deeper than simple regrowth. When you harvest those fragrant clusters, the plant interprets this as browsing pressure from large herbivores. Its survival instinct kicks in, redirecting energy from root expansion into reproductive overdrive. The cut triggers dormant buds along each stem to activate, forming the framework for multiple flower clusters where there was once just one. This ancient defense mechanism explains why wild lilacs in deer country often bloom more profusely than protected garden specimens. Your pruning shears mimic what elk and moose have been doing for millennia. The more you cut during peak bloom, the more the plant commits to flowering as its primary survival strategy. What feels like taking becomes giving back. [XMDF4]

Garden Club Annual Plant Sale Tomorrow at the Josephine County Fairgrounds!  Woo-hoo!
04/24/2026

Garden Club Annual Plant Sale Tomorrow at the Josephine County Fairgrounds! Woo-hoo!

04/16/2026

Which edible flowers are your favorites? 🌸 Edible landscaping makes exploring your yard even more exciting! If you already have a garden, you can easily add some edible garden plants to your flower bed or home landscaping.

It’s important to choose edible plants that are ornamental, but not especially appealing to wildlife. If you have bright orange or yellow bulbs, mix in a few edible flowers to fill in the ground space.

Here are a few fun ideas to incorporate edible flowers and edible plants into your garden. Almanac.com/edible-garden-plants

04/16/2026

Most annuals peak for a few weeks and fade. These nine bloom from June until frost — five straight months from one Saturday of planting, no succession sowing, no midsummer replanting, no gaps. 🌿

Zinnia — deadhead one spent bloom and two new stems branch from the cut point. The more you cut, the more it produces. Every flower color except blue. Deadheading is the entire maintenance schedule.

Cosmos — four feet tall from a seed packet that costs less than a coffee. Blooms better in poor soil than rich — feeding it produces foliage at the expense of flowers. Self-seeds gently for next year.

Marigold — five months of gold and orange. French marigold root compounds suppress root-knot nematodes in the soil, so it's working underground while it's blooming above. One of the cheapest plants in any nursery.

Lantana — blooms harder as heat builds through July and August when everything else stalls. Drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. Note: lantana is classified as invasive in Florida, coastal Texas, and Hawaii. Gardeners in those states should choose an alternative such as pentas or portulaca for similar heat-season performance.

Coreopsis — annual varieties self-deadhead, dropping spent blooms and replacing them without any intervention. June through October without touching it.

Red salvia (Salvia coccinea) — scarlet tubular flower spikes that hummingbirds find within days of planting. Blooms spring through frost and handles summer heat well.

Vinca (Catharanthus roseus) — drought-tolerant, heat-proof, and low-maintenance. Pink or white flowers from June to frost.

Rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan) — starts in July and runs through October. Self-seeds for next year. The seed heads feed goldfinches in fall.

Petunia — starts earlier than the rest (May) and runs to frost, trailing from baskets and window boxes throughout the season.

Five months of color. One Saturday of planting. 🌱

04/16/2026

Every garden center sells chemical solutions for problems that backyard gardeners solved with kitchen scraps and common sense for generations before pesticides existed. Crushed eggshells scattered around the base of tomato and pepper plants deliver calcium directly to the roots and prevent blossom end rot before it starts. Coffee grounds worked into soil around hydrangeas, blueberries, and azaleas lower the pH naturally and feed acid-loving plants without buying specialized fertilizer. Banana peels buried one inch deep around rose bushes release potassium and phosphorus slowly as they decompose and promote larger stronger blooms all season. Epsom salt dissolved in water and sprayed on tomato and pepper leaves provides magnesium that boosts fruit production the way commercial bloom boosters claim to. A milk and water spray applied to squash and cucumber leaves prevents and treats powdery mildew because the proteins in milk create an antiseptic barrier on contact with sunlight. Wood ash from a fireplace sprinkled lightly around root vegetables raises soil pH and delivers potassium and calcium that strengthen cell walls. Used tea leaves mixed into potting soil improve drainage and slowly release nitrogen as they decompose. A cinnamon stick pressed into the soil of a potted plant kills fungus gnat larvae on contact and prevents adult gnats from laying eggs. Marigolds planted at the end of every vegetable row repel aphids, whiteflies, and nematodes through compounds released from their roots and flowers. Corn planted next to pole beans gives the beans a natural trellis to climb while the beans fix nitrogen into the soil that feeds the corn. Hair clippings scattered around the garden perimeter deter rabbits and deer because the human scent signals a predator nearby. Saving seeds from your best-producing plants each year creates a strain naturally adapted to your exact soil and climate. Twelve garden lessons from before the garden center existed.

03/16/2026

Most of the damage in a vegetable garden happens overnight, and by morning the pest responsible is gone. You find holes, trails, spots, and wilting — but no culprit in sight. Spraying for the wrong insect wastes time, kills beneficial species, and leaves the actual pest untouched. 🌿

Matching the damage pattern to the specific pest is the only way to respond correctly. Each pest leaves a signature that is as identifiable as a fingerprint once you know what to look for.

Tomato hornworm: large irregular holes chewed in tomato, pepper, and eggplant leaves, often with entire leaf sections stripped bare overnight. Dark green-black droppings the size of peppercorns on the leaves below are the giveaway. The caterpillar is huge — up to four inches — but its green color makes it nearly invisible against stems and foliage. Look for the droppings first, then follow them upward.

Aphids: clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects on the undersides of new growth, stem tips, and flower buds. Leaves curl downward and become sticky with honeydew. Sooty black mold often follows on the sticky residue. Aphids reproduce so fast that a small cluster becomes a colony of thousands within a week.

Slugs: ragged irregular holes in soft leaves with a glistening slime trail visible in morning light. Damage appears overnight because slugs feed after dark and hide under mulch, pots, and boards during the day. Hostas, lettuce, and seedlings are the most common targets.

Japanese beetle: skeletonized leaves with the green tissue eaten and only the veins remaining, creating a lace-like pattern. Adults feed in groups and work from the top of the plant downward. Roses, beans, grapes, and linden trees are the most heavily targeted.

Squash vine borer: sudden wilting of one section of a squash or pumpkin vine while the rest of the plant looks healthy. A sawdust-like frass at the base of the stem where it meets the soil marks the entry point. The larva is inside the stem, and by the time wilting is visible the damage is often fatal to that vine.

Cabbage worm: small round holes in brassica leaves — cabbage, broccoli, kale, collards — with dark green droppings visible on the leaves. The bright green caterpillar matches the leaf color almost exactly. The white butterflies fluttering around your brassicas in spring are the adults laying eggs.

Flea beetle: dozens of tiny round holes in eggplant, radish, arugula, and brassica seedling leaves, giving the foliage a shotgun-blast appearance. The tiny black beetles jump when disturbed — if you touch the leaf and small specks leap, flea beetles are confirmed.

Spider mites: fine stippling on leaf surfaces that looks like tiny pale dots, followed by yellowing and leaf drop. Fine webbing visible between leaves and stems when populations are high. Spider mites thrive in hot dry conditions and are almost invisible without a magnifying lens — the webbing is usually noticed before the mites themselves.

Cutworm: seedlings cut cleanly at the soil line, toppled over like felled trees. The damage happens overnight and each cutworm takes out one seedling per night, working down a row systematically. The grey-brown caterpillar curls into a C-shape just below the soil surface near the fallen stem.

This post is for general gardening information. If you are unsure about a pest or the damage is spreading rapidly, contact your local cooperative extension for identification help.

Identify the damage first. Then decide whether to act

Address

1440 Parkdale Drive
Grants Pass, OR
97527

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