The Red Barn at Spring Hollow Farm

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The Red Barn at Spring Hollow Farm It's been ingrained in me, from my parents and others, this idea of making a difference in the world

10/06/2026

Longhorn Arena & Event Center 301 Interstate 30 Greenville, TX Foundation class : 9:00 AM–12:00 PM. Advancing: 1:30 PM–4:30 PM. Contact: Dr. Ruth Whitely · [email protected] OR Kris Graef [email protected] 806-282-6950 Bring your own lunch. Concessions are not available at this facility....

10/04/2026

NO HOOF, NO HORSE! 🐎 — TYPES OF HORSESHOES ON THE RACETRACK

There is a lot more to a horseshoe than simply putting metal on the bottom of a foot.

The shoe a horse wears can depend on the horse itself, the condition of its feet, the surface it trains or races over, how quickly it wears through shoes, whether a certain area needs additional support or protection, and what the trainer, farrier and veterinarian are trying to accomplish.

On the racetrack, most Thoroughbreds are wearing aluminum race plates. Aluminum is much lighter than steel, which makes it particularly suited to racehorses. A standard race plate is relatively simple, but even race plates can be made with different toe shapes, clips and traction features depending on the horse and the surface.

Here are some of the different shoes you may hear about around the racetrack:

* Aluminum Race Plate: The everyday standard for most Thoroughbred racehorses. It is lightweight and designed to give the foot protection without adding unnecessary weight. These are commonly used both in training and racing.
* Steel Shoe: Steel is heavier than aluminum but is also much more durable. You will commonly see steel shoes on pony horses and other horses that need something capable of tolerating considerably more wear. Some horses simply wear through aluminum too quickly for it to be practical.
* Straight Bar Shoe: Instead of having two separate heels like a normal open shoe, a bar connects the back of the shoe straight across the heels. That connection increases support across the back of the foot and can help stabilize the hoof capsule. Bar shoes are often used when additional heel or hoof support is needed.
* Egg Bar Shoe: Another closed shoe, but instead of a straight bar across the heels, the shoe continues farther behind the foot in an oval or “egg” shape. That increases the ground-contact/support area behind the heel and can provide additional support to the back of the foot.
* Heart Bar Shoe: A heart bar adds a central extension designed to provide support beneath the frog in addition to the support provided around the hoof wall. This is a more specialized or therapeutic shoe and should be applied for a specific reason with appropriate farrier and veterinary guidance.
* Z-Bar: This is not simply a shoe you pull off a shelf and nail on. A Z-bar is generally custom fabricated by the blacksmith for that particular foot. Part of the shoe is removed or redirected so pressure can be taken away from an injured or compromised quarter of the hoof while the rest of the foot remains supported. The shape depends on exactly where the horse needs relief.
* Silver Queen / Square Toe / Fast Break: This style has a broader, squared-off toe rather than the rounded toe of a conventional race plate. Around the racetrack you may hear it referred to as a Silver Queen or Fast Break. The wider toe configuration changes the front portion of the shoe and can be selected based on the individual horse and the farrier’s goal.
* Glue-On Aluminum Shoe: It is still an aluminum horseshoe, but instead of securing it with traditional horseshoe nails, the shoe is attached using an adhesive system. This can be especially useful when there is not enough healthy hoof wall to comfortably hold nails or when the farrier wants to avoid putting additional nail holes into a compromised hoof wall.
* Polyflex / Flexible Polyurethane Shoe: Instead of aluminum or steel, Polyflex-type shoes are made from flexible polyurethane and are typically bonded to the foot with adhesive. They allow some flexibility while still providing protection and support. They can be particularly useful when a traditional nailed shoe is not ideal for that horse.

TOE GRAB vs. TOE CLIP vs. SIDE CLIPS

These terms sound similar, but they describe very different things.

A toe grab is about traction.

It is a raised bar or rib on the ground-facing surface of the shoe at the toe. Think of it somewhat like a cleat: instead of the entire shoe sitting completely flat against the track surface, the raised portion can pe*****te the dirt and provide additional grip.

That added traction is also why toe grabs are regulated. Too much resistance between the foot and the surface can change how the limb loads and releases as the horse moves.

A toe clip, on the other hand, is not a traction device.

It is a thin piece of aluminum shaped into a small rounded triangle at the outside edge of the shoe at the toe. When the shoe is fitted, that clip rests against the hoof wall. Its purpose is to help stabilize the shoe, reduce movement between the hoof and shoe, and take some of the workload off the nails.

Side clips, also called quarter clips, work the same way but are positioned farther around the sides of the shoe. Instead of one clip at the toe, there are typically two clips—one on each side. They help keep the shoe from twisting, sliding or shifting and can reduce stress on the nails.

So an easy way to remember it is:

Toe grab = grip on the ground.
Toe clip/side clips = help hold the shoe to the foot.

WHAT IS A “FULL OUTER RIM”?

You’ll see the term full outer rim in HISA’s horseshoe regulations, so it is important to understand what that actually means.

A full outer rim shoe has a raised rim running around the outside perimeter of the ground-facing surface of the shoe.

That is very different from a toe grab.

A toe grab concentrates traction into one raised area at the toe. A full outer rim distributes that raised traction surface around much more of the shoe.

HISA specifically states that it strongly recommends full outer rim shoes instead of toe grabs on the hind feet because an outer rim can provide traction while still allowing the hoof to land more flatly on the racing surface. HISA cites research linking toe grabs and other traction devices with increased stresses on bone and soft tissue.

CURRENT HISA HORSESHOE RULES

For horses training or racing on dirt, HISA currently permits hind shoes with either a full outer rim or a toe grab up to 4 millimeters in height. On the front feet, a full outer rim up to 2 millimeters may be used, but a toe grab cannot be present on the front shoe.

For horses training or racing on turf or synthetic surfaces, HISA prohibits traction devices on both the front and hind shoes. That includes toe grabs and other similar traction devices.

Toe clips and side clips serve a different purpose—they stabilize the shoe rather than creating ground traction.

And this is one of the biggest lessons I want students to take away from this post:

The shoe itself can tell you a lot about what the horse may need—but never assume that an unusual shoe means something is “wrong.”

A horse may wear a particular shoe because of its hoof shape, how it moves, the surface it works over, previous hoof damage, a quarter crack, heel support, wear pattern, or simply because that style works best for that individual horse.

When you work around racehorses every day, start paying attention to their feet. Know what shoes your horse normally wears. Look at them when you pick the feet. Notice whether a shoe has shifted, sprung, loosened, worn thin, lost nails, or disappeared altogether.

Because eventually, you shouldn’t just be able to say:

“He lost a shoe.”

You should be able to say:

“He lost his left-front aluminum plate with a toe clip,” or “He normally wears a bar shoe behind and that shoe has shifted.”

That is the difference between simply being around horses and learning to become a horseman.

No hoof, no horse. Know what’s on their feet—and know why.

09/28/2026
09/12/2026

🌾 𝐅𝐨𝐱𝐭𝐚𝐢𝐥: 𝐀 𝐇𝐢𝐝𝐝𝐞𝐧 𝐇𝐚𝐳𝐚𝐫𝐝 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐇𝐨𝐫𝐬𝐞𝐬

Have you seen this w**d in your pasture or hay? While foxtail may not contain toxic compounds, its barbed seedheads can still cause painful problems for horses. Let’s dig into why foxtail can be harmful, how to control it, and how to make sure you’re identifying the right w**d.

🌱 𝐖𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐈𝐬 𝐅𝐨𝐱𝐭𝐚𝐢𝐥?

Foxtail is a grassy annual w**d belonging to the genus Setaria. There are three main species, green, yellow, and giant foxtail, which are found throughout much of the world.

Foxtail receives its name due to the bushy fox tail appearance of its seedhead. It tends to thrive in disturbed or poorly managed areas, but regular mowing and hand pulling can help keep it under control. Because foxtail is a grass, common broadleaf herbicides will not control it. If herbicide control is desired, a pre-emergent approved for use in areas where horses graze, such as pendimethalin, may be an option in the spring and early summer.

⚠️ 𝐖𝐡𝐲 𝐈𝐬 𝐅𝐨𝐱𝐭𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐚 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐛𝐥𝐞𝐦 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐇𝐨𝐫𝐬𝐞𝐬?

The biggest concern with mature foxtail is its seedhead.

The tiny, barbed fibers called awns can become lodged in a horse’s lips, mouth, and gums. What may initially look like a minor irritation can become quite painful and may potentially lead to secondary infections.

Some signs you may notice include:

💧 Excessive drooling

🦷 Difficulty chewing

🤕 Head tossing or rubbing the face

🌾 Refusing to eat

🔎 𝐃𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐮𝐢𝐬𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐅𝐨𝐱𝐭𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐓𝐢𝐦𝐨𝐭𝐡𝐲?

These two grasses may look alike, but it is important to be able to tell them apart.

The easiest way to spot differences is by looking at the seedhead.

Foxtail:
🌾 Has small hairs projecting from each seed, giving the seedhead a fuzzy or bristly appearance
🌾 Has noticeable awns
🌾 Seedheads may droop as they mature

Timothy:
🌿 Has a smoother-looking seedhead without the characteristic bristles of foxtail
🌿 Seedheads generally remain upright

You can also examine the collar region, where the leaf blade meets the stem.

🔍 Timothy has a prominent, tall membrane (ligule).

🔍 Foxtail often has tiny hairs in this area instead.

🐴 𝐖𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐒𝐡𝐨𝐮𝐥𝐝 𝐘𝐨𝐮 𝐃𝐨 𝐈𝐟 𝐘𝐨𝐮 𝐅𝐢𝐧𝐝 𝐈𝐭?

If you find mature foxtail in your pasture or hay, don’t panic, but don’t ignore it either.

Regular mowing before seedheads mature can help reduce the amount of mature foxtail. Hand pulling can also be effective for smaller infestations. If you’re considering herbicide control, make sure the product is specifically labeled for the intended use and is safe for areas where horses will graze.

And if you suspect your horse has foxtail-related mouth irritation, removing the source and monitoring the horse closely is important. Horses showing significant pain, difficulty eating, or persistent drooling may need a veterinary examination.

🌾 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐓𝐚𝐤𝐞𝐚𝐰𝐚𝐲

Foxtail may look like just another grass in the pasture, but those tiny barbed awns can cause some very uncomfortable problems for horses.

Learning to recognize foxtail, and knowing how to distinguish it from desirable grasses like timothy, can help you catch the problem before it becomes a bigger issue.

Take a closer look at those seedheads the next time you’re walking through your pasture or inspecting your hay. You might be surprised by what you find! 🔎🐴

Cheers,
Dr. DeBoer

09/12/2026

The 48th annual Competitive Trail Ride is underway!

09/07/2026

Every horse deserves a balanced diet. Like Mad Barn for science-backed nutrition, expert support, and free tools and education to help your horse feel and perform their best.

Address

390 East Street
Danville, OH
43014

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