Hiking Istanbul - independent hiking - İstanbul'da Doğa Yürüyüşleri

04/06/2026

‘Happiness is not just about GDP’: ambitious plan or utopia?

Some will question its credibility – but the alternative future to the one imagined in the World Justice Report is far more bleak

04/06/2026

A good life for the 99% isn’t a pipe dream: it can be done. Here’s how

Our plan is radical – but by transforming how we live on a finite planet, nearly everyone gains, says Thomas Piketty and researchers from the World Inequality Lab

04/06/2026

‘An equal and habitable world is possible’: academics set out sweeping vision for planetary survival

Global report provides an alternative to climate breakdown, political extremism and economic tensions

02/06/2026

interim report and photos

Hike 421 on 31.5.26. Sea to sea part 2. Germe village to Sazlıbosna village (lekopolis) via Anbardolduran hill and threatened water meadow; Sazlı stream; Baklalı village and Roman capital; Sazlıdere southern threatened flower meadow and small river; Dursunköy northern farms, hill, crest, viewpoints, village, small Ottoman bridge, İsmail Aġa Çeşmesi, and boggy wood; Sazlıdere northwestern floodplain, woodland, meadows, fields, and western reservoir shore; and Sazlıbosna reservoir shore.

First, the general things: The day was forecast as sunny and dry but was mostly cloudy - which was a blessing as this is an almost completely exposed route. It nearly rained a couple of times but didn’t (and we had a little lightning), so the weather was rather perfect. We did however, unbeknowingly, pass through a meadow infested with ticks which we were able to brush off quite easily, though next time I’ll be avoiding that particular meadow. I’d billed the hike as one of our easiest (only 2 smallish hills) though in practice it wasn’t so easy, mainly because the meadows in late May are more or less at their peak grass - knee to waist - height which makes for slower going. Earlier in spring would be better, also then there are even more flowers - though there were still a great many to decorate our way; though few lilies and orchids - both of which can be seen on this route a month or so before. That said, the ground was boggy in places and would be more so earlier in the spring. The local farmers cut the meadow grass for hay staring in late May so walking the same route from mid June onwards would be easier - less grass and drier ground - but not so rich from a flower point of view. For an easier route, finish in Dursunköy - around 14.5 kms.

The other big generality is that this route, of all our routes, is the one most affected by rampant, TOKİ construction. It follows the route of the mooted Kanal İstanbul and the land either side of the valley has been bought up en masse and not just zoned (against the city municipality’s wishes I believe) for construction but in the last couple of years been devastated by rabithutch-like TOKİ estates which are remarkable in their architectural monotony, the closeness of the buildings (no or little space for anything green between the blocks), and the total insensibility of the ‘architecture’ to the surrounding countryside and nearby villages. The most affected villages are Boyalık, Baklalı, Dursunköy, Sazlıbosna, Hacımaşlı and Şamlar. The spread of construction in what was a green valley a few years ago demarcating the western edge of the metropolis is astonishing. Effectively, Arnavutköy has doubled in size - and it was already a large town. It is pure vandalism. The values of construction-driven capitalism trumping (sic) all other values. The estates have lain waste to beautiful meadows, rich in flowers, insects, reptiles, amphibians and birds. And in their stead are swathes of identikit blocks. Unbelievable. As if istanbul wasn’t already more than big enough.

The route: The first part is a pleasant meadowy stroll heading south and a little west between Germe and Baklalı. From Baklali, we pass a sprawling new estate as we head south to Dursunköy. We pass under the motorway (opened about 7 years ago) and come into what I call the southern Sazlıdere flower meadow. This is the main body of the route and used to be magical; now, there are estates on the eastern side of the valley from about the halfway point on. There’s also a long, high new fence cutting off completely the walking route. As is usually the case, the fence may be new and expensive but has large gaps probably made by the local herders. We proceed thanks to the gaps. Then we divert west up Dursunköy hill which means we avoid walking along the road and can take in the views from the crest - now views including the vast new estates both to the east and south. We come down into the republican-flavoured village and proceed south through the rough strip of woodland running parallel to the reservoir’s edge, cut by a quite busy road which we cross safely, before coming to the (polluted - forget swimming) water’s edge and continuing to Sazlıbosna past literally hundreds of picnickers and fishers. At one point a shepherd (maybe Tajik) got angry with us because his flock of sheep ran off into a field as we approached. There wasn’t much else we could do. Thankfully, the storks are still there but Sazlıbosna has been mal-transformed by a new estate on the western side of the reservoir and by another new estate just to its south. We are left to mourn all that's been destroyed.

01/06/2026

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2026/may/31/why-being-outdoors-in-nature-means-so-much-to-us?CMP=Share_iOSApp_Other

Many of those who love spending time in Britain’s green places say it is awe-inspiring, calming and therapeutic

28/05/2026

Water safety experts warn of dangers of outdoor swimming as heatwave grips UK

At least seven people have died in recent days as people have tried to cool off in Britain’s waterways

24/05/2026

interim report and photos

Hike # 420 on 23.5.26 from Öǧümce village to Sırapınar village via Öǧümce’s Riva river footbridge; Bozhane old village, hill, old garage, southeastern forest, streamside walk and hill; Kılıçlı western pastures, oaks, wood, village and southern farmlands; İshaklı western wooded hill, village, eastern forest, streamwalk, hill, eastern hamlet and earth dam; Hüseyinli eastern forest and hill; Çınar motorway crossing; Civelek hamlet, Çanakçı northern hill, forest, overspill crossing and earth dam; and Sırapınar northern forest and hill.

Although there are no major technical difficulties, it’s a fairly tough hike. A B+ because it’s quite hilly overall and there’s a streamwalk which is great but requires patience and carefulness, and we had one unexpected patch of thorns which we got through without great difficulty but it slowed us down. Also during the afternoon, there was a shower which lasted about a quarter of an hour and then fine misty drizzle for the rest of the hike, which meant, waterproofs notwithstanding, that I got damp and stayed damp.

The first section of the route, between Öǧümce and Bozhane, is short stroll and pleasant. We had breakfast tea in Bozhane. The second section between Bozhane and Kılıçlı includes a short lovely ascending streamside walk (and a bit of scrambling), meadows and woodland, and also the unexpected patch of young brambles which we’ll have to try to find a way around next time. We had lunch in Kılıçlı. The third section between Kılıçlı and İshaklı is mostly fairly open and not difficult. We had a tea break in İshaklı. The fourth section between İshaklı and the dam southeast of the village is mostly deep forest and includes a wonderful descending stream walk. The fifth section between İshaklı dam and the Çınar motorway crossing is almost all in forest. The sixth section between the motorway crossing and Çanakçı dam is straightforward, mostly through forest, if hilly until you get to the dam, which is a bit tricky to get onto. And then the last section is from the second dam of the day to Sırapınar, which is all through forest and hilly both up and down.

We had a sweet daydog between Öǧümce and Kılıçlı. I collected five ticks - not far off the record. There were four of us at the beginning, then one of us left at Kılıçlı, then two more of us left at İshaklı which meant that for the second half of the hike I was alone, which I don’t prefer because in forest you’re in the middle of nowhere plus it was wet and easy to slip. Though it’s also a special pleasure being alone in the forest and feeling deeply connected to nature. One general note about the route is that it lends itself to different versions because there are three bailing points along the way. It’d be possible to swim in either reservoir (though yasak); especially the second as it’s very isolated.

22/05/2026

interim report and photos:

Sea To Sea part 1 (Trikos version) on 17.5.26: Yeniköy (Black Sea) to Terkos via Yeniköy’s Black Sea beach, mostly-abandoned opencast lignite mining land, airport perimeter and big pond; the first Sazlıdere flower meadow and Hiking Istanbul’s oak tree; Çakıl pinewoods; Trikos promontory, pastures, northeastern shore, ruined Byzantine defensive wall (north and south) and fort; Terkos reservoir swimming (and fishing) point; Trikos southwestern shore; and Terkos historical town and waterworks.

Today went pretty well considering the changeable weather. We had a shower early on but it was short and not heavy; then we had a longer and heavier one when we got to Terkos mosque which passed over so we decided to continue to the end of the route, but then there was a third shower just after we left Terkos. We decided to turn back to the bus stop because it wasn’t clear that the third shower would pass quickly (in fact, it did). And Terkos is a good place to end this route if you don’t want to continue the rest of the way to Germe.

Overall, it has lots of variation. It’s one of our easier routes though not ‘easy’ but ‘easier’ because of no jungle, not much beelining and being fairly flat.

The route has four parts. The first is a loop from Yeniköy to the Black Sea and then through the abandoned opencast lignite mining area which has become a kind of broken meadow.

Then we walk between Yeniköy pond and Terkos promontory via the first Sazlıdere water meadow, the Hiking Istanbul oak and a pleasant pine woodland.

Then we walk around the edge of the promontory as we can via both ends of the Trikos Byzantine wall and the rather sad ruin of Trikos Byzantine fort which brings us into Terkos.

The fourth section would be from Terkos to Germe, but we didn’t walk that today because we turned back rather than risk an evening soaking.

As we began the third section, a farmer got quite stroppy with us for using an open track that passes through or by his land. We were doing no harm whatsoever, so his reaction felt completely uncalled for.

The journey home was horrible because the 336K bus from Terkos was way more than overfull and the Sunday evening traffic made the way slow as well. So we bailed at Taşoluk to take the M11 but it had shut early for maintenance work so we had to get another bus. And that finally connected with the M7 but trains weren’t running through to Mecidiyeköy because of maintenance work… so all in all it took nearly 4 hours to get home. No ticks today as far as I know. No daydogs. I tripped and broke a brand new camera hood. Even though we didn’t finish the whole route, I don’t feel any particular need to rewalk it for another two years, given that the last section is pretty clear.

22/05/2026

sunburn on hikes is not a good idea:

Cancer Research UK figures show number diagnosed with most serious form of skin cancer has risen above 20,000 for first time

16/05/2026

a note about tomorrow's hike (Sunday, May 17th); it looked like the hike would have to be postponed because of rain but the forecast has now shifted so that, though we can expect a late afternoon shower, it won't rain (the forecast says) during most of the day; so the hike is going ahead; the ground will be a bit wet as it will rain tonight; best to come prepared for a shower; the temperature will be a pleasant 20°