14/07/2026
WATERTIGHT DOORS — AND A SPECIAL RESTORATION JOB
This story illustrates the lengths our volunteers have to go to while carrying out the careful restoration of Toroa.
�The Toroa was built with four transverse bulkheads below deck with open access from bow to stern. The midships space housed the triple-expansion engine and the boiler. In the aftervoid space there was the steam-powered electricity-generation plant, the hot well and the make-water tank for boiler water. One of the auxiliary steam engines driving a dynamo has been beautifully restored to full working order and repositioned on a rebuilt plinth. The fore void was empty of machinery but needed regular access to the propeller-shaft bearings.
The current Maritime Rules require the bulkheads between these spaces to be watertight, thus needing watertight doors for access by the engineer. Two doors have been acquired, ex HMNZS Wellington and HMNZS Canterbury, both now dive ships, and have been installed in the rebuilt and strengthened bulkheads in preparation for this new era. The present large open 'doorways' between the machinery room and the fore and after voids will be closed off with new bulkhead plating when machinery installation has been completed.
Recently Rod, one of our dedicated volunteers, restored all the handles of these doors to gleaming condition. However one of the sockets for their threaded bushes had warped and required restoration itself.
Our long-serving expert machinist volunteer Barry Fullerton provided an innovative solution and, with Peter Henley’s help, carried it out. Here is Barry's report on the watertight door bushing repair:
The threaded mounting socket for a locking handle on a watertight door had been distorted by welding close to the frame. It needed the thread chasing to restore it to round so the bronze bush could be threaded in to mount the handle. The first job was to determine the thread type and size by measuring the bush— it turned out to be 17/16" – 12 UN, a very uncommon thread in New Zealand. From an old truckaxle shaft (very tough hardenable steel) I made a tap by carefully machining the thread to "maximum metal" thread dimensions, tapered the lead-in, and with a hand-held angle grinder ground six deep flutes into it to form the cutting edges and the square end. Using a good amount of cutting oil, a large adjustable spanner and a cheater bar, this tap was slowly wound into the existing socket thread, a little at a time, and backed off. It started off fairly easily but as it reached the distorted part it became more and more difficult to turn. Checking the cutting edges showed they were holding up well and a little swarf was being generated. Onwards! After a fair amount of effort, the tap went fully through, and the bronze bush screwed in snugly afterwards. The handle was installed and tested. Job done.