17/09/2026
https://www.facebook.com/share/1AawhQphqx/?mibextid=wwXIfr
If you, like me, used to struggle with fully-developed chicks that just never seemed to hatch on time, listen in! This "trick" changed everything for me.
I’m now achieving almost 100% hatch rates (from fertile, developing eggs) using a method called a Dry Hatch. I’ve done it with my thick-shelled Marans and various other breeds, and the results have been incredible across the board. Apart from the few infertile or very early-stop eggs, I might only see one or two late deaths total in an entire batch.
Many people are taught to keep humidity high the entire time. The problem? When the incubator is too humid for the first 18 days, the egg can’t lose the right amount of water through its porous shell. If the water stays in the egg, the all-important air cell (the space at the blunt end) remains too small.
When that chick tries to breathe right before hatching, it can’t get enough oxygen because that air cell is cramped. It gets trapped, weakens, and sadly, often drowns right at the finish line.
The Dry Hatch approach flips that on its head!
Days 1-18: I keep my humidity very LOW (think 25-30%). I do not add any water to the incubator unless it drops below 15%. This intentionally dries out the egg just enough to let that crucial air cell grow nice and LARGE.
On day 18 I increase humidity dramatically (up to 65-70%) for the final three days. This prevents shrink-wrapping and helps them zip easily.
My results speak for themselves: strong, timely hatches and nearly every developed chick makes it out!
If you’re frustrated by "late deaths," try experimenting with lower early humidity.
