Textile Research Centre

Textile Research Centre The TRC in Leiden, The Netherlands, is an independent study centre for textiles and dress.

A year ago we were given a large group of Ottoman and later Turkish textiles and dress from the Kavak Folklore Team & Co...
26/06/2026

A year ago we were given a large group of Ottoman and later Turkish textiles and dress from the Kavak Folklore Team & Costume Collection (Antwerp), which was founded by Jean-Marie Criel.

Last week, we collected another eight boxes with garments. These are currently being processed, but one garment stuck out: it is a pink, quilted kaftan from Konya, Turkey. It dates to the first half of the twentieth century.

In a separate blog, Gillian Vogelsang- Eastwood, director of the TRC, discusses the garment. You can download it here: https://tinyurl.com/y4tcxu6s

Illustrations:
Quilted kaftan from Turkey, first half 20th century, TRC 2026.0841.
Dinolite microscope detail of the quilted kaftan, TRC 2026.0841.

Check the new additions to our course list online !Some Wednesday workshops to come in 2026; Medieval Aglets, Dorset But...
26/06/2026

Check the new additions to our course list online !

Some Wednesday workshops to come in 2026; Medieval Aglets, Dorset Buttons, Kilim Weaving, Nålebinding and many more.

See our online agenda for more information and contact [email protected] for any registration or questions about the classes.

Collection highlight : A Double Wedding Ring quilt from the 1930s !A Double Wedding Ring quilt started in the 1930s, and...
23/06/2026

Collection highlight : A Double Wedding Ring quilt from the 1930s !

A Double Wedding Ring quilt started in the 1930s, and finished in the 2000's by Quilter Dorothy Mast. (298 x 168 cm) The name Double Wedding Ring refers to the pattern of interlocking circular arcs that was very popular during the Great Depression Era.

Much of the material used to make this quilt started in the 1930's comes from feedbsacks. Clothing and textiles made from old sacks (originally containing flour, beans, rice, animal feed, etc) have been used commonly to provide basic comfort at very low costs. During the Depression in North America, in the 1930's, many people used these textile sacks to remake them into garments and textiles for the house.

Photograph: TRC 2018.2408, from the Sherry Cook donation.

Wednesday morning workshop, July 8, 2026: Basic Egyptian braiding (sprang) !Egyptian braiding ( sprang in English) is an...
22/06/2026

Wednesday morning workshop, July 8, 2026: Basic Egyptian braiding (sprang) !

Egyptian braiding ( sprang in English) is an ancient braiding technique in which threads are twisted around each other in specific patterns to create an elastic textile. Prehistoric hairnets, Roman caps, medieval bras, and 18th-century officer's sashes bear witness to the long history of this technique.

During this workshop, we will be introduced to the technique, casting on, the basic stitch, and finishing. Sprang is known for being challenging. Participants do not need to bring anything except plenty of patience.

This Wednesday morning workshop is given by Dorothee Olthof, an expert in the field of archaeological textiles and the reconstruction of medieval and later textiles.

Date: Wednesday, July 8, 2026.
Time: 10:00 - 13:00.
Location: TRC Leiden, Boerhaavelaan 6, 2334 EN, Leiden.
Language: Dutch/English.
Cost: 45 euros.

Please register in advance via: [email protected]

Sunday Lecture - June 21 - Fashion in the 1920's !After World War One, a feeling of freedom, wealth and liberation chang...
17/06/2026

Sunday Lecture - June 21 - Fashion in the 1920's !

After World War One, a feeling of freedom, wealth and liberation changed how women and people in general dressed themselves in the Western world. Women were becoming an increasingly larger segment of the workforce and their clothing reflected the need for practicality and use, but also a desire to be fashionable and have fun.

Designers like Coco Channel made their debut during this time and became popular fashion icons. Beauty ideals were changing and femininity expressed itself differently: you had to look modern and boyish, practise sports, emulate film stars and dress fancily at evening parties with elaborate dresses and headwear that catched the eye and light.

This lecture will be given by Augusta de Gunzbourg . She has previously curated an exhibition about 1920's fashion at the TRC and written our online exhibition on the subject.

Date: Sunday, 21 June 2026.
Time: 14.00 - 15.00 pm
Venue: TRC Leiden, Boerhaavelaan 6, 2334 EN
Language: English
Costs: 7.50 euros (to be paid on the day)
Please register in advance: [email protected]

A new TRC programme of round-table meetings. (Gillian Vogelsang, 16 June 2026) The TRC recently received a substantial s...
16/06/2026

A new TRC programme of round-table meetings. (Gillian Vogelsang, 16 June 2026) The TRC recently received a substantial subsidy from the Overvoorde – Gordon Stichting / het Pauwhof Fonds, for a series of gatherings that are aimed at strengthening relationships and stimulating collaboration with a broad group of stakeholders in the (inter)national museum, science, art, and heritage fields of textiles and dress.

Textiles connect

Textiles are a universal language that bridges the gap between science, culture and society. With this programme, the TRC aims to realise a stronger, cross-disciplinary connection between museums, art institutions, universities, and knowledge institutes, as well as fashion professionals, makers, artists, and a broader public. By actively bringing these parties together, a dynamic network is created in which knowledge sharing, encounters, and collaboration take centre stage.

The programme builds upon the existing expertise of the TRC and focuses on deepening and renewing relationships. At the same time, the programme aligns with a current development: for several years: there has been renewed and growing interest in textiles within contemporary art, design, and fashion practices. This development is visible in museums, biennials, and presentation institutions, where a new generation of makers works with themes such as sustainability, material research, reuse, botanical processes, and heritage. This trend also marks a broader shift: alongside conceptual and artistic approaches, there is renewed attention to craftsmanship, technical knowledge, and artisanal skills. The TRC responds to this by explicitly positioning itself as a knowledge centre where the combination of thinking and doing is the focal point. In doing so, space is made for various approaches to textiles, and both the distinction and the interplay between artistic practice and craft expertise are acknowledged.

The meetings consist guided tours, collection presentations, interactive sessions, and open discussions regarding collaboration opportunities. These meetings are hosted by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, TRC director, and Augusta de Gunzbourg, TRC curator. During the sessions, concrete forms of collaboration are explored, such as loans, co-exhibitions, internships, research and education projects, guest lectures, residencies, and links with the fellowship programme.

First meeting

The first of the meetings took place on 1 June, and was attended by ten curators and other professionals from the WereldMuseum, the Centraal Museum (Utrecht), the Openluchtmuseum (Arnhem), ModeMuze (online platform), as well as a private curator. The programme started with a tour of the TRC building, and was followed by a round-tabel discussion. The TRC director, Dr Gillian Vogelsang, emphasised that the TRC is a textile knowledge centre that focusses on what is a textile, from both a theoretical and practical point of view, and on the language of dress. To do so, the TRC uses its extensive collection of textiles, clothing and accessories (some 54,000 registered pieces). The main TRC collection is based on provenance (country, group, etc). Through its focus on technique, the TRC also studies archaeological textiles. Two other points that were mentioned were the paid fellowship programme in textiles and dress (for the next three years, eleven fellows will be working at the TRC for some six months each), and the plans to lay out a textile garden, with plants that are used to produce and/or decorate a textile.

Gillian Vogelsang suggested the participants to further facilitate access to each other’s collections and archives for research, but also offered the TRC's assistance in training students, interns and curators about textiles and setting up exhibitions. The TRC can also help with research, with publishing research findings (the TRC has extensive contacts with Bloomsbury Publications, London; Princeton University Press; WBooks), with cataloguing textiles and with assessing potential donations. She also suggested to help each other with national and international networks. Possible areas of co-operation that were furthermore stressed included a joint webpage or platform for sharing ideas and objects with respect to collections, library, partners and donations. All participants agreed that more (public) visibility was needed for textile and dress studies, research, publications, etc.

A significant problem discussed was that museum curators often do not have the time to carry out research on their museum’s collection – yes, for an exhibition some research is normal, but not for general research. Having a research/knowledge centre, such as the TRC, may help other museums with research possibilities and questions.

Another method of working together, as mentioned during the round-table, was in the field of exhibitions and workshops. One such exhibition is currently being organised by the Centraal Museum, Utrecht, about cotton, to be held in October 2027. The possible areas of help from the side of the TRC was the loan of historic and archaeological cotton textiles, the loan of modern naturally-coloured cottons, as well as using the TRC’s network to talk with modern fashion trade.

Another practical form of cooperation would be the linking up of the TRC Library with that of the WereldMuseum, so that students and researchers have easy access to both sets of books [a similar arrangement needs to be organised with Leiden University].

It was suggested that we could have a joint meeting of this group every three months to discuss in an informal manner experiences, problems, ideas, etc. Everyone thought this was a good idea and the TRC will organise and house the meetings. On top of that, The TRC plans a series of comparable meetings in the time to come, with representatives of other institutes, both national and international.

The TRC annual textile book sale, 13 June 2026. We have just shut the TRC doors on a very successful book sale at B6, ou...
13/06/2026

The TRC annual textile book sale, 13 June 2026. We have just shut the TRC doors on a very successful book sale at B6, our new home!

We have been working hard for the last few weeks to get hundreds of books, magazines, leaflets, etc., sorted according to subject matter – embroidery, woven, printed, knitted, quilts, general history, etc., not to mention prices. These were then put into boxes and organised on a variety of themes in the main gallery. We had hoped to hold the book sale in the garden, but the weather was not very helpful – rain clouds and strong winds all day long.

The sale officially started at 10.00 but people were arriving from 09.30 onwards, and the first purchases took place at 09.45. From 10.00 until 14.00, there was a constant flow of visitors to search for interesting books and items, as well as for inspiration. Then it gradually slowed down and the last sales were made just after 15.00.

Not just about books

But the day was not just about selling books, it was also intended as an opportunity for people to come and see the new home of the TRC and to talk with colleagues about what we are doing and plan to do, as well as to see the TRC’s current exhibition about appliqué textiles (khayamiya) from Egypt.

Some people heard about the sale from the TRC Blog, Facebook, Instagram, etc. Some heard from friends, while others read about it from the recent article in the local newspaper, the Leidsch Dagblad.

Many people came from the Leiden region, but others came from Amsterdam, Breda, and even Maastricht to see and talk with us. Indeed there were several people who came from Germany and Belgium. All came with the idea of buying books and satisfying their curiosity. There were also various former TRC volunteers and students who wanted to catch up with the latest TRC happenings, especially with respect to B6.

Nearly 100 people came, and yes, many of whom also asked questions about the TRC! They ranged from fashion and art students to former textile teachers, and the partners of people who are passionate about textile (obsessed some would say, not that we understand such a thing). There was also one elderly lady who used to live opposite in the Boerhaavelaan, while another visitor lives on the other side of our back garden! Both wanted to see the inside of the house and relive experiences and memories.

Augusta, Willem and myself took various groups of people around B6 and explained the history and future plans for this amazing building. We also had the chance to tell people about our next big project, namely the building of the storage annexe. Many promised to spread the word. We also discussed our plans for a textile garden with fibre plants, dye plants, and plants linked to the further decoration of textiles. In addition, some other people came to ask if they could use the TRC’s new garden for photo shoots, bring friends to visit, or to arrange group visits of colleagues or students. Interesting ideas and work for the future.

Money raised

Over 300 items were sold, which raised nearly €1,000. So what are we going to do with this money? Well, the collection is in need of special rollers for storing various textiles, as well as suitable acid-free boxes and some large plastic boxes. So the money raised today will go directly towards these items. A fitting use for the funds raised by the book sale and for everyone’s hard work.

I would like to say a big ‘Thank you’ to everyone who helped organise the book sale and provided a warm welcome to all our visitors. We are already planning more events of this type, so keep an eye on the TRC News, Instagram, Facebook, etc. But in any case, we already want to welcome you to the next annual TRC book sale, sometime in the early summer of 2027.

Reminder of our Book Sale tomorrow, Saturday, 13th of June !The TRC will have its annual book sale, starting at 10.00 an...
12/06/2026

Reminder of our Book Sale tomorrow, Saturday, 13th of June !

The TRC will have its annual book sale, starting at 10.00 and ending at 15.00. Hundreds of books on textiles, clothing and accessories will be on sale!

The TRC regularly receives donations of books. If a copy is already in our extensive library, we'd like to pass them on to other textile aficionados at very low prices.

Come in and have a look! You will also have a chance to see the TRC's current exhibition on appliqué textiles from Egypt, known as khayamiya, to see our new building and, of course, meet our staff and other textile enthusiasts.

Address: TRC, Boerhaavelaan 6, 2334 EN Leiden (NL), (behind Leiden's main train station).

10/06/2026
Het Leidsch Dagblad publiceerde vandaag, woensdag 10 juni, een artikel van twee pagina's over de TRC, de verhuizing naar...
10/06/2026

Het Leidsch Dagblad publiceerde vandaag, woensdag 10 juni, een artikel van twee pagina's over de TRC, de verhuizing naar de Boerhaavelaan en de ambities voor de toekomst. Het vestigt ook de aandacht op de textielboekenmarkt aanstaande zaterdag, vanaf 10.00.

Met een weids armgebaar toont directeur Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood de enorme tuin van het nieuwe onderkomen van het Textile Research Centre Leiden. De grasmat is nu misschien een beetje wild en stoppelig, maar dat gaat veranderen. ,,We gaan hier een tuin met textiel- en kleurstofplanten aanleggen, m...

Adres

Boerhaavelaan 6
Leiden
2334EN

Openingstijden

Maandag 10:00 - 16:00
Dinsdag 10:00 - 16:00
Woensdag 10:00 - 16:00
Donderdag 10:00 - 16:00

Telefoon

+31628830428

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