24/05/2026
MEMBER SPOTLIGHT | Divyesh Muni
"Mountaineering isn't solely about reaching the summit; it's about experiencing the journey to the mountain and back, the friendships formed, and the challenges overcome during the expedition. It's about living every moment in the mountain with joy and returning enriched by the experiences." – Divyesh Muni
With 33 Himalayan expeditions and 46 successful summits, of which 26 were first ascents, to his name, Divyesh Muni is not only a mountaineer but also an avid photographer and a lifelong Himalayan enthusiast. His achievements include the first ascents of two 7000-meter peaks, a 100-km traverse across the remote East Karakoram range, and the first ascent of a peak on the Siachen Glacier. Divyesh possesses something seasoned climbers instantly recognise: a long patience for exploratory terrain— where every decision carries weight and every retreat demands humility.
As Vice President of The Himalayan Club, he works tirelessly to achieve its objectives. He has served the Club in various capacities for more than 30 years.
Among his many climbs, one expedition remains closest to his heart: the first ascent of Chamsen (7017 m), an Indian-British joint expedition he aptly called "Lure of the Unknown – An exploratory climb in the East Karakoram."
It was a journey stitched together by commitment: a high-stakes crossing of Sakang Col (~6150 m) into the North Shukpa Kunchang glacier, negotiating steep ice, fixed ropes, and exposure, where "turning back" wasn't a simple choice.
Then came the moment no team forgets, an avalanche blast that severely injured a team member and forced an emergency response deep inside a valley with no practical exit. Under severe constraints, the team reached out to the Indian Air Force in a real-life, life-and-death contingency, and the helicopter rescue finally arrived in a narrow window of weather.
And still, they returned to the purpose of the expedition: on 21 August 2013, the team stood on the summit of P.7017 m, naming it Chamsen, with the panorama of the East Karakoram unfolding around them like a reward earned, not claimed.
In a mountaineering life defined by exploration, a few markers stand tall: the IMF Climbing Award (2014) and the Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering (three times), recognising expeditions that ventured into the unknown with skill and judgement. Beyond the rope and ice, he has also served on the Banff Mountain Film Festival jury and exhibited his photography at the NCPA, Mumbai—bringing the Himalayas to audiences who may never set foot on a glacier yet still feel awe.
An interesting podcast in which he narrates his experiences and stories: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k2Ckdlfg5s&t=229s
Image Courtesy: Divyesh Muni
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