02/12/2025
Immersing yourself in untouched nature is a common fantasy among travellers, but particularly among scuba divers. Kiwi divers have known for decades that Indonesia offers some of the best tropical diving on the planet, but previously pristine scuba locations such as Bali, the Gili Islands and even Komodo have started to suffer wear from ever-expanding tourism.
However some 1700 km beyond Bali, at the very northern tip of the Indonesian archipelago, the island of Halmahera sits surrounded by some of the region’s best untouched underwater environments. Wallacea Dive Cruises has been operating Indonesian scuba expeditions for a couple of decades now, and started liveaboard trips to explore the west coast of Halmahera around three years ago.
A liveaboard — so named because you live aboard a boat for several days in order to dive, rather than taking day trips from a land-based resort — enables underwater adventurers to access dive sites way beyond the reach of the resorts. Wallacea’s luxury liveaboard boat Ambai plies the seas around Halmahera from May to September, and my wife and I hopped on board.
By John Pearson | December 1, 2025
Some of our favourite tropical scuba spots are starting to show the strain of mass tourism. It’s time to check out diving in Indonesia’s remote north.