10/05/2024
Day 25 - Padron to Santiago de Compostela - 25.6km
We were all in bed by 9pm in order to have enough sleep for our 4am wakening. It was a very noisy hostel with people arriving late and with some talking loudly and excitedly about the final leg.
Nevertheless, I fell asleep and was not woken by the crash that apparently happened just after midnight! I did wake up at 2pm again, though, and it was strikingly hot and humid. I went to the toilet but I immediately knew I wasn't getting back to sleep, so I thought about the day ahead, dozing occasionally and waiting for time to pass.
At 3.51am I couldn't wait any longer and got up. Karsten soon followed and a few minutes later Andy.
We'd bought some food for breakfast last night which was quickly despatched and we were away by 4.45am.
It was still dark but at first the street lights illuminated the way. We walked through the town, which appeared very drab but as we walked to the far side of town it was quite pretty.
It was also quite dark and the head torches were needed.
We walked in isolation for some time, which was a little surprising, as it is very busy now and pilgrims often leave early on their last day in order to make it to the cathedral in time for the pilgrim mass.
We'd walked for about 6 kilometres before we found a cafe but it was closed. We walked on hoping to find one soon.
Andy warned us off an impending toilet crisis but there was nothing to do but carry on.
From memory I was aware of hills and woodland surrounding Santiago de Compostela and this was also true for our direction of approach. Andy spurned all suggestions of a repeat of yesterday's toilet adventure, but I was more in need!
All the cafes we came across were still closed so it was a long drag, particularly for Andy, who was having foot problems. At one point I noticed that we had reached the 10km to go point and there were some convenient benches to sit on, so we had a few minutes rest before walking on.
Shortly after this however, as we walked uphill along a road, a man came up to us with a menu saying it was the last stop before the cathedral and pointed to a cafe about 100m away.
We didn't need a second thought as this was our first proper stop in 17km. Karsten and I had a coffee and sandwich. Andy had hot chocolate and half of my tortilla bocadillo; Karsten ate a complete one!
Time was pressing; we weren't walking as quickly as we were at first as Andy had hurt his foot when he missed a step in the woods in the dark, but he was still smiling and singing so we knew his mood was good.
We now had a straight road up to the cathedral about 4 kilometres away but we needed to go slowly. About two kilometres from the cathedral another cafe appeared and it was definitely beer (and cider) time. We stopped along with several other pilgrims to enjoy the feeling of (almost) success.
From here we walked up to the cathedral together, arriving in plenty of time to take photos and then joining the queue for the mass.
There was a lot of handshaking and hugs among all the pilgrims there which was a joy to see.
Inside the cathedral it was standing room only for the mass. We found a convenient spot at the back to see the beautiful altar which depicts angels guarding the gates to heaven at which St James and St Peter stand.
I was moved to tears by the artistry and the singing.
Even though we'd been asked not to take pictures and not to move around during the mass many people were doing so. I don't know if they were pilgrims but they all seemed to have seats!
Andy had to sit down at the base of a pillar to listen to the service as he was pretty exhausted by his efforts over the last ten days.
After 40 minutes of standing my feet ached horribly and I either needed to sit down or take my boots off. I chose the latter and was almost immediately told to put them back on.
Really, I thought; yes, he said. No-one taking photos had been challenged and no-one wandering around during the service had been challenged either. At this point I'd had enough; we'd got up at 4am to walk nearly 26 kilometres. After days of trudging we were pilgrims attending the Pilgrim Mass and I was being challenged about my boots while irreverent tourists were snapping happily from their comfy chairs.
I told Andy and Karsten I was leaving and went outside to sit at a cafe and have an irreverent beer!
I sort of understand how Jesus felt when he was so disparaging about the Pharisees disregard for ordinary folk. The cathedral mass has become a media event more aligned to tourists than the actual people who literally sweat blood and tears to get there.
This is the second time I've been to this mass. In the first I felt put out because I wasn't allowed to take communion because I wasn't a Catholic. What difference does it make if you've followed the trail praying as you go.
I don't think I will be coming back.
Meanwhile Andy and Karsten also left early and joined me for beer. We then went to the Credencil office to pick up our certificates and then walked to the hostel which is just round the corner from the cathedral.
The hostel is run a bit like Ryanair, the up front cost is ok for the bed, but if you want to take a shower it's 5€ extra, a towel costs 2€. If you want to wash clothes that's extra too. I haven't found out yet if there's a charge for the loo!
Andy is staying for dinner but then he's off to the airport for his early morning flight. Mine doesn't leave until 11am tomorrow so I'm staying overnight.
Karsten can't get a flight to Dusseldorf by any means so he's going to catch the train home and drink wine to soften the experience.
Oh, Andy has fully completed his Camino experience. He developed Camino cough in the last couple of days, that helps to keep you awake. He's also popped his first blister on the road and lived to tell the tail.
He's a new man, Helen! He's aged 20 years, he's developed a limp and his new favorite saying is, "ohhh!" Which he uses frequently when any kind of effort is needed.
We love him! See you soon everyone.
God is good. X
P.S. Helen, we've shown Andy where the bus stop is for the airport. Our responsibilities as tour guides are now at an end. Let us know if he fails to arrive home!
P.P.S. Gandalf didn't give Sam his staff in Lord of the Rings but in the remake he snatched it!