21/10/2026
Have you ever wondered why some fabrics are better suited to deep buttoning than others? 🪡
Fabric choice can make a huge difference to the finished result. And while we don’t always get to choose the fabric our clients want, understanding how different materials behave can make the job much easier, particularly when you’re learning.
In his latest article for the AMUSF Journal, our Director of Training Gareth Rees explores some of the differences:
🧵 Linen: Loosely woven linens can be tricky because the fabric moves within the weave, making it harder to keep diamonds and pleats aligned.
🧵 Satin and sateen: These fine fabrics tend to show every inconsistency, so precision is particularly important.
🧵 Velvet: Generally a good choice for deep buttoning as it conceals fullness and softens minor imperfections. However, natural fibre velvets can mark easily, especially if buttons need repositioning.
🧵 Wool: One of the more forgiving options, offering enough stability to control the pleats while allowing the folds to form naturally.
🧵 Leather: Behaves differently from woven fabrics, making the preparation, firmness and shape of the stuffing especially important.
Of course, fabric choice is only part of the story!
Stuffing depth, firmness and diamond proportions all play a role in achieving a beautifully controlled finish.
Gareth explores these principles in Part Two of his three-part masterclass, Deep Buttoning: A Technical Exploration, in the Summer 2026 edition of the AMUSF Journal.
Look out for Part Three in the next edition of the Journal, coming out shortly!
In the meantime, which fabric do you find easiest to work with when deep buttoning, and which gives you the most trouble? We’d love to hear your experiences! ⤵️⤵️
Thanks to Cecily Benson for featuring and By Sophie Photography | Dorset 📷
