26/05/2025
Reinhold Messner
One of the greatest climbers of all times - Reinhold Messner was born on 17th September, 1944 in in the Italian province, South Tyrol.
Messner grew up in Villnöß and spent his early years climbing in the Alps and falling in love with the Dolomite. His father, Josef Messner, was a teacher. He was also very strict and sometimes severe with Reinhold. His father introduced him to mountaineering, and from the age of 13. He made numerous difficult climbs, first on mountains in the Eastern Alps and later on other Alpine peaks.
During the 1960s, Messner became one of the earliest and strongest proponents of what came to be called the “Alpine” style of mountaineering, which advocates the use of minimal amounts of lightweight equipment and little or no outside support (e.g., the Sherpa porters typically employed in the Himalayas). He was joined in this philosophy by his younger brother Günther and by Habeler, whom Messner met on an expedition to the Peruvian Andes in 1969.
He made his first trip to the Himalayas in 1970, when he and Günther scaled Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet [8,126 metres]) and were the first to ascend by way of its Rupal (south) face; his brother died during the descent, and Reinhold barely survived the ordeal, losing several toes to frostbite. In 1975 Messner and Habeler made their first Alpine-style ascent of an 8,000-metre mountain without supplemental oxygen when they climbed the northwestern face of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak; 26,470 feet [8,068 metres]) in the Karakoram Range.
For their historic oxygen-free climb of Mount Everest in 1978, Messner and Habeler accompanied a large German-Austrian conventional (i.e., Sherpa-supported) expedition to the mountain. Setting out on their own from about 26,200 feet (7,985 metres) on the morning of May 8, the two reached the summit in the early afternoon. Habeler, fearing the effects of oxygen deprivation, descended quickly, with Messner following more slowly. Messner recounted the adventure in Everest: Expedition zum Endpunkt (1978; Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate).
Messner’s landmark solo ascent of Everest in 1980 was equally remarkable. After three days of exhausting climbing on the north side of the mountain (which included a fall into a crevasse), on August 20 he stood on the summit. As he described it later,
I was in continual agony; I have never in my whole life been so tired as on the summit of Everest that day. I just sat and sat there, oblivious to everything.…I knew I was physically at the end of my tether.
Messner continued tackling lofty peaks, usually by untried routes. In 1978 he had again climbed Nanga Parbat, reaching the summit alone by a new route, and in 1979 he had led a team of six to the top of K2 (28,251 feet, 8611 M), the world’s second highest mountain.
In 1983 he led a party on a notable ascent of Cho Oyu (26,906 feet [8,201 metres]) using a new approach, the southwest face, and the following year made the first traverse between two 8,000-metre peaks: Gasherbrum I and II. By 1986 he had climbed all of the world’s 8,000-metre mountains, many of them twice.
In 1989–90 Messner and German Arved Fuchs became the first people to traverse Antarctica via the South Pole by foot without either animals or machines. Their journey, which covered some 1,740 miles (2,800 km), was accomplished in 92 days. Another notable adventure was Messner’s 1,250-mile (2,000-km) solo trek across the Gobi (desert) in Mongolia in 2004. He also established a series of mountain-themed museums in the Alps of northern Italy, beginning with one near Bolzano in 2006. Messner served one term (1999–2004) in the European Parliament, where he mainly championed environmental issues.
His climb on 8000ers in Himalaya is as follows :
1970 - Nanga Parbat (8,125) - First ascent of the unclimbed Rupal Face and first traverse of the mountain by descending along the unexplored Diamir Face (with his brother Günther).
1972 - Manaslu (8,163) - First ascent of the unclimbed South-West Face, of which neither a photo existed before First ascent of Manaslu without supplemental oxygen
1975 - Gasherbrum I (8,080) - First ascent without supplemental oxygen (with Peter Habeler)
1978 - Mount Everest (8,848), Nanga Parbat (8,125) First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen (with Peter Habeler)
Nanga Parbat - first solo ascent of 8000er from base camp. He established a new route on the Diamir Face
1979 - K2 (8,611) Ascent partially in alpine style with Michael Dacher on the Abruzzi Spur.
1980 - Mount Everest (8,848) - First to ascend alone and without supplementary oxygen – from basecamp to summit - during the monsoon. He established a new route on the North Face.
1981 - Shishapangma (8,027) - Ascent with Friedl Mutschlechner.
1982 - Kangchenjunga (8,586), Gasherbrum II (8,034), Broad Peak (8,051) New route on Kangchenjunga's North Face, partially in alpine style with Friedl Mutschlechner.
Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak - Both ascents with Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir.
Messner becomes the first person to climb three 8000er in one season.
Also a failed summit attempt on Cho Oyu during winter.
1983 - Cho Oyu (8,188) Ascent with Hans Kammerlander and Michael Dacher on a partially new route.
1984 - Gasherbrum I (8,080), Gasherbrum II (8,034) - First traverse of two 8000er; all achieved at one time without returning to base camp (with Hans Kammerlander).
1985 - Annapurna (8,091), Dhaulagiri (8,167) - First ascent of Annapurna's unclimbed North-West Face.
Both ascents with Hans Kammerlander.
1986 - Makalu (8,485), Lhotse (8,516) Makalu - Ascent with Hans Kammerlander and Friedl Mutschlechner, Lhotse - Ascent with Hans Kammerlander.
Messner becomes the first person in climbing history who successfully achieved all 14 8000er
Pic Credit : Internet
