Luseland Garden Club

Luseland Garden Club We are a non-profit organization that meet once a month, where we discuss interesting garden topics, and plan seminars and tours throughout the year.

04/21/2026
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04/21/2026

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Shocking! The prairie crocus isn’t even a crocus! This hardy spring flower is actually a member of the crowfoot or buttercup family, Ranunculaceae. And those pale blue/purple blossoms aren’t even true petals! (gasp!) These pale coloured sepals are modified leaves that trap warm air on cold spring nights with their hairy exterior and provide shelter for pollinators. Useful and eye-catching to boot! Many flowers have them, but they’re typically just green. So is it a case of identity theft or just mistaken identity?

To make matters trickier, this species has had several scientific name changes over the years with the most recent name being Pulsatilla nuttalliana. Regardless of their technical taxonomy, we’re classifying these flowers as pretty! They’re free to go. You can enjoy their beauty even if you can’t pronounce Rununculaceae or Pulsatilla nuttalliana. Remember, wild plants should remain in the wild. So, enjoy the view, take a pic and share it with us.

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04/15/2026

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Shocking! The prairie crocus isn’t even a crocus! This hardy spring flower is actually a member of the crowfoot or buttercup family, Ranunculaceae. And those pale blue/purple blossoms aren’t even true petals! (gasp!) These pale coloured sepals are modified leaves that trap warm air on cold spring nights with their hairy exterior and provide shelter for pollinators. Useful and eye-catching to boot! Many flowers have them, but they’re typically just green. So is it a case of identity theft or just mistaken identity?

To make matters trickier, this species has had several scientific name changes over the years with the most recent name being Pulsatilla nuttalliana. Regardless of their technical taxonomy, we’re classifying these flowers as pretty! They’re free to go. You can enjoy their beauty even if you can’t pronounce Rununculaceae or Pulsatilla nuttalliana. Remember, wild plants should remain in the wild. So, enjoy the view, take a pic and share it with us.

04/01/2026

When the garden goes dark, a second shift of pollinators clocks in. Moths pollinate more plant species worldwide than butterflies — and they work the flowers that daytime visitors ignore completely.

Pale fragrant blooms that open at dusk aren't decorative. They're built for night navigation.

🌿 Nine plants that work the night shift:

- Moonflower — large white trumpet blooms unfurl at sunset and close by morning. Hawk moths hover in front of them, uncoiling tongues as long as their bodies to reach deep nectar reserves

- Night-blooming Jasmine — tiny white flowers release one of the strongest fragrances in any garden, but only after dark. Moths detect the scent from remarkable distances and follow it like a chemical trail

- Evening Primrose — yellow blooms pop open in seconds at dusk, fast enough to watch in real time. Sphinx moths arrive within minutes, drawn by both the sudden color flash and the burst of fresh scent

- Nicotiana — woodland to***co opens white tubular flowers at twilight that glow in low light. The long flower tubes are scaled for moth tongues and exclude shorter-tongued daytime insects

- Four O'Clocks — named for the hour they open. Trumpet-shaped flowers in pink, yellow, and white overlap perfectly with moth flight windows from late afternoon through midnight

- White Phlox — pale phlox reflects moonlight and stands out against dark foliage after sunset. Night-flying moths locate them visually when scent alone isn't enough in still air

- Yucca — one of the most tightly linked pollination partnerships in nature. Yucca moths collect pollen, fly to another plant, and deliberately pack it into the flower — one of the few insects known to pollinate intentionally rather than accidentally

- Heliotrope — vanilla-scented clusters that intensify their fragrance as evening temperatures drop. Small moths and nocturnal beetles work the flowers through the night

- White Petunias — often overlooked for night gardens, but the white varieties glow in low light and produce fragrance that intensifies after sunset. Sphinx moths visit them reliably

🌿 How to build a night garden:

- Layer by height — moonflower and nicotiana climb or stand tall in back. Four o'clocks and phlox at mid-height. Heliotrope and petunias at the front edge
- Group white and pale flowers together — the cluster reflects more moonlight than scattered individual plants and is easier for moths to locate from a distance
- Place the garden near a seating area and enjoy it at dusk — a chair ten feet from a moonflower vine on a warm July evening puts sphinx moths at arm's length
- The fragrance is the real draw after dark. Plant the strongest scent producers — jasmine, heliotrope, nicotiana — where evening breezes carry the scent toward the house

A garden that closes at sunset is only working half the day 🌿

03/19/2026

Reduce Raised Bed Soil Costs by Filling the Bottom With Logs and Branches

Deep raised beds require a large volume of soil, which increases cost. Filling the lower portion with untreated logs and branches reduces the amount of purchased soil needed while improving long term soil structure. This method is commonly known as hugelkultur and works best in beds at least 16 to 24 inches deep.

Start with clean, natural wood. Use untreated logs, thick branches, and smaller sticks. Avoid pressure treated lumber, painted wood, or black walnut. Hardwood breaks down more slowly and provides longer term structure. Softwood decomposes faster and contributes organic matter more quickly.

Place the largest logs on the bottom. Fill gaps with smaller branches and twigs to reduce large air pockets. Water the wood thoroughly before adding soil. Pre soaking helps initiate decomposition and prevents the dry wood from drawing moisture away from plant roots during the first season.

Add a layer of compost or partially finished organic material over the wood. This introduces microbial life that accelerates breakdown. Then fill the remaining depth with quality garden soil and compost. Keep at least 8 to 12 inches of soil above the wood layer to provide sufficient root space for vegetables.

Expect some settling during the first year. As the wood decomposes, the bed will drop slightly. Top off with compost as needed. Over time, the decomposing wood improves water retention and supports beneficial soil biology.

This approach reduces upfront soil purchases, improves long term fertility, and creates a moisture buffering layer beneath crops. Deep beds with a wood core provide structure, drainage, and organic matter while lowering overall installation cost.

03/19/2026

Start Seeds Indoors Using Egg Cartons and a Recycled Salad Container Mini Greenhouse

You can start strong seedlings using simple materials from your kitchen. Paper egg cartons make biodegradable seed cells, and a clear salad container creates a humidity dome that improves germination.

Use cardboard egg cartons, not foam. Poke a small drainage hole in the bottom of each cell. Place the carton on a waterproof tray to catch excess water. Fill each section with a fine seed starting mix and gently firm it down.

Plant one or two seeds per cell at the recommended depth. Mist the surface lightly so the soil is evenly moist but not saturated. Label the carton if you are growing multiple varieties.

Place a clear plastic salad container over the top to trap humidity. The transparent cover allows light in while holding moisture around the seeds. Set the tray near a bright window but avoid intense direct sun that can overheat the enclosure.

Check daily for condensation and soil moisture. Remove the lid briefly if excess moisture builds up. Once seedlings emerge, begin venting by cracking the lid open for a few hours each day. Remove the lid completely once true leaves appear to prevent damping off and weak growth.

Keep the soil evenly moist by watering from the bottom. Add water to the tray and allow the carton to absorb it. This encourages deeper root development and reduces surface fungus.

When seedlings are ready to transplant, separate the carton cells and plant them directly into the garden or a larger container. Cardboard breaks down naturally in the soil, reducing root disturbance.

This method lowers costs, reduces waste, and creates a simple controlled environment for early growth using materials you already have at home.

03/08/2026

can. NOT. contain. my. excitement. ☕️

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03/08/2026

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🌿 Save the Date — Gardenscape 2026! 🌿

Gardenscape is back March 27–29, 2026, with fresh ideas, expert advice, and exciting new features you won’t want to miss! 🌸

This year’s theme, “Metamorphosis at Home: Small Changes, Big Impact,” will inspire ways to refresh your outdoor space. There’s something for everyone, whether you’re dreaming, planting, or simply looking for inspiration.

🎟️ Tickets are on sale now. Secure yours and get ready for three days of fun, creativity, and outdoor transformation! 🌱
🎟️👉 gardenscapeyxe.com/

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03/01/2026

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PVC Hoop Tunnel for Raised Beds
A simple hoop tunnel extends your growing season by several weeks at both ends. PVC pipes bend easily into arches and support row cover or plastic to protect crops from frost, wind, and pests.

STEPS:
Step 1: Attach metal brackets to inside of raised bed frame, spaced 3-4 feet apart.
Step 2: Insert 10-foot PVC pipes (3/4-inch) into brackets—pipes curve naturally into hoops.
Step 3: Drape row cover fabric over hoops for frost protection.
Step 4: Secure edges with clothespins, clips, or weighted boards.
Step 5: Ventilate on sunny days—temperatures inside can spike quickly.

WHEN & WHERE TO USE:
- Early spring: Start cool-season crops 4-6 weeks before last frost
- Fall: Extend harvest 4-6 weeks past first frost
- Summer: Use shade cloth instead of row cover for heat-sensitive crops
- Crops: Lettuce, spinach, arugula, radishes, carrots, beets

02/27/2026

it’s science really… ☀️

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02/07/2026

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If you’ve got kids (or you’re a kid at heart), a bean teepee is such a fun use of a small patch of yard. By midsummer it turns into a leafy “hideaway”… and you’re picking beans at the same time. 🌿

What you need:

8–12 sturdy poles (bamboo, saplings, or 8' stakes)

Twine

Pole bean seeds (not bush beans)

Compost + mulch

Steps:

Pick a sunny spot and mark a circle about 5–7 ft wide.

Scrape off the grass in a ring (or lay cardboard first), then add a few inches of compost.

Push poles in 8–12 inches deep, evenly spaced around the circle, and tie them tightly at the top.

Run twine around the poles about 12–18 inches off the ground (helps when the plants are small and floppy).

Plant 2–3 seeds per pole, about an inch deep. Water well.

Once they’re climbing, thin to the strongest plant and keep the ring mulched so it doesn’t dry out fast.

Guide the vines for the first week or two—after that they usually take off on their own.

Little tip from doing this: beans hate cold soil, so I wait until nights are reliably mild, then they explode with growth.

Would you plant this for the beans, the “fort”… or both? 😊

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