06/18/2026
Unauthorized route development recently occurred at Kelso (a Conservation Halton Park), including a retro-bolt of Alan's Layback (5.7 trad), as well as the establishment of additional sport climbs.
Conservation Halton (CH) is the land manager of Kelso, Mount Nemo, and Rattlesnake Point. The access plan established with the OAC and the climbing community requires CH authorization for any development or maintenance occurring in their parks - whether it be new route development, tree cutting, trail building, or retro-bolting of existing routes.
This recent route development at Kelso was done without authorization. CH has decided that these unauthorized routes will be removed and requested the OAC facilitate their removal. The bolts from Alan's Layback and another new route have already been removed by volunteers.
“The addition of any permanent climbing hardware, creation of new routes, or modification of existing routes (or altering of/tampering with existing hardware – including rock climbs) is strictly prohibited without the express written consent of Conservation Halton” said AJ Leeming, Senior Manager, Programs and Services. “These actions can lead to the creation of unmanageable and possibly unsafe routes that could be detrimental to the environment and our climbing community. Anyone found or reported altering trails may see themselves removed from the park and potentially banned from CH parks via Tresspass notice.”
The OAC and CH have an excellent working relationship that allows for the climbing we enjoy in their parks. It is very rare that land managers are as supportive of climbing as CH has been. When the OAC has discussions with land managers, we often reference our relationship with CH because of their tremendous support of the climbing community and strong partnership.
To maintain this access in Conservation Halton Parks, we must adhere to the terms of the access plan. That means if there is a desire to establish new routes, or a need to alter the environment and/or make any climbing hardware alterations, you must reach out to the OAC first. CH trusts the OAC's judgment, and is more than happy to consider any reasonable proposal we present.
