Phil's Cycle Tours

11/11/2025

WWT - Prologue
I probably overdid my clothing on account of the preceding wild weather and took some waterproof overtrou and warm gloves I never used. I don't begrudge the tools and tubes I didn't use though. Here's a merged GPX of the route:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cvYfHIWSSVZ3swtcxfjhCK5sHryfJaGz/view?usp=sharing
Some weekend when I have nothing else on I'll visit family nearby and see if I can connect up a route from Ongarue to Pureora which avoids the main road through Maniaiti (Bennydale)

11/11/2025

WTT Day 10 Saturday 8th November 2025
Te Wera to Opunake
85km 990m
And just like that, it's our last day. Starting to consume the last of our food, we had to content ourselves with a double instant coffee and a cup of gumboot tea over breakfast. Being a coffee snob, this is the first instant I've consumed for well over a decade. But the prospect of a caffeine induced headache until we reach Stratford was more dire.
The backroad through Taranaki farming hinterland and old railway towns was extremely pleasant and only joined by a couple of cars and motorbikes. Almost too soon, we hit the Forgotten Highway again for the last few km into Stratford for not one, but two espressos and a tasty cooked lunch.
As we rode the rolling but generally straight road to Opunake, the cloud around the maunga cleared and we enjoyed views of Taranaki (or as Capt James Cook named it, Mt Egmont).
The statue of NZ running legend Peter Snell in his home town semed an appropriate end point.
Then we joined my brother Jeremy and his partner Donna for some beer, hospitality and a hearty meal and a few games of pool at the local pub.
Well, that's it. I'm extremely grateful to my friends Dave and Rosie of Scottish Express, who entrusted me with curating this tour and the logistics. Having a couple of like minded companions who are short on drama and big on vibe made it even better. It turned out better than I'd imagined and I'd recommend it to anyone after a South West North Island greatest hits tour.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16399841161

11/11/2025

WTT Day 9 - Whangamomona to Te Wera via old Whangamomona road
58km 875m
Our day started with the rough but rideable Whangamomona valley road including two tunnels leading to the Bridge to Somewhere. The Bridge to Nowhere’s less famous sibling was built around the same time and also serviced resettled people’s farms. Also abandoned like Mangapura valley, the then Lands and Survey amalgamated many farms and took over managing the land more sustainably and the bridge still accesses that farm (hence the Bridge to Somewhere.) One of the things that stood out was the number of mobs of goats, almost one at every clearing. We've seen them almost everywhere on this ride, it's amazing how well the bush is recovering really.
A pleasant gravel ride over a pass followed, surrounded by regenerating bush, then rolling hills and valleys through Taranaki countryside brought us to a local hall for lunch by a small rural school who allowed us to replenish our water. We enjoyed a Real Meals lunch and our final Aeropress coffee from our supplies on the verandah at the neighbouring community hall.
A final climb up to another tunnel lead us to the Forgotten Highway again and Te Wera Camp. This is an old forestry camp with reasonable cabins at $35/head. THere were a fgew facilieis for campers,we enjoyed the Flying Fox and a wander around an old arboretum, planted around the time I was born in the early 60s.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16388911273

11/11/2025

WTT Day 8 - Ōhura to Whangamomona
59km, 755m
I started the day with a cuppa from this inspiational mug. A lovely cruisy day with relatively easy climbs including the highlight of a 10+ km ride through the spectacular bush lined Tāngarākau gorge.
We took a late lunch by war memorial then rolled into the Whangamomona camping ground (the old school yard and buildings) before having drinks and meals with the Kopiko crew at the legendary Whangamomona pub. Great vibe and hospitality there. The 3rd toursim business for sale on our ride.
The campground, based around the old school, was good value at $15 cash. No bookings required, just roll up.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16388908576

11/11/2025

WTT Day 7 Wednesday 5th November 2025
Piro Piro to Ohura
92km, 1285m
A day of two halves. We had an enjoyable ride to then across the largest swing bridge on the trail followed by a steep climb to the logging railway end, then a mostly downhill ride. There were many historical points of interest along the way and some great views.
One interesting story was of the railway jigger improvised from and old truck that the single loggers went out to Taumarunui on paydays to watch movies, have a brew or two and dance with eligible ladies. Quite a contrast to the rugged conditions at the camps and work.
We rendezvoused for our remaining food pack pick up at Camp Epic depot at the end of the trail. We had lunch, repacked, then retraced the gravel Ongarue back road the Ōhura road. It started with a big climb, thankfully mostly in the shade on this hot afternoon, followed by a fast descent where we held one of our coasting challenges, won by Dave again, the heaviest and most daring of us. After that, rolling flats followed the old railway line to the ghost town of Ohura. Formally a coal mining town, it has empty shops and just over 100 residents.
Host Michelle accommodated everyone in the last Kopiko wave plus us and fed us from her Mexican Food Truck (Fiesta Fare). Unfortunately she’s selling her businesses and moving on so hopefully someone else keeps the convenient services running.
Photos are on the Strava log today.

Epic Camp to comfy B&B and cafe at Ōhura. Caught (in a nice way) in a wave of about 10 Kopiko riders (including us, who are diverting off the route tomorrow) | Strava

11/11/2025

WTT Day 6 Tuesday 4th November 2025
Pureora to Piropiro
47km 980m
As it was a short day, we took a couple of detours to take in local points of interest. Firstly we rode a few km to the magnificent canopy viewing tower amongst the regeneration and forest remnants. It was here that native logging ceased in the late 1970s after treetop sit ins by protestors. I was at high school when it happened and remember it well. It was one of the early events that awakened my conservation awareness. The regeneration which we observed on the Timber Trail was awe inspiring.
After climbing almost to the treeline we had lunch at the trail's high point then decided to take a walk up to the summit of Pureora. It was a clear day and we were rewarded with a stunning 360 panorama. I took my Garmin with me with the aim of logging the walk but as it was in pause mode and I was walking too slowly it didn't record. It was about a 180m climb according the the map.
After that it was an enjoyable smooth descent punctuated with a few switchbacks and small climbs.
We settled in at the cosy Camp Epic for the evening. While it wasn't as luxurious as the nearby Timber Trail Lodge, it boasted roomy hot showers with plenty of pressure and endless heat for all. The huge kitchen and social area encouraged mingling with other cyclists and a bonus was meeting up with an old friend from my Palmy days, Anthony Behrens, who has recently embraced bike packing. After a few yarns and draining the remains of my hip flask of single malt, we turned in for the night.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16365359338

10/11/2025

WTT Day 5 Monday 3rd November 2025
Taumarunui to Pureroa via Bennydale
83km 1275m
This was essentially a connector ride so we could do the Timber Trail. We considered using a shuttle service but as it would have involved half a day's faffing and some expense, we decided to ride it. It was hot, there were lots of hills, and quite a bit more traffic on SH30. Maniaiti (Bennydale) dairy has also closed so we missed out on ice creams. Shuttling could have been a better option! And don't believe the 13km sign to Pureora, it's 20km.
Locals manage the DoC cabins in the old Pureora logging village. Our host grew up in the village and others based there were also involved in an iwi-led native corridor replanting operation. The aim is to aid bird movement between native forest blocks. We had a look around and confirmed that a Forest viewing tower is still operational, so we planned to check it out tomorrow.
The facilities were a bit run down but good value for money and very well located, being right at the start of the Timber Trail.

View Phil Etheridge's mountainbikeride on November 3, 2025 | Strava

10/11/2025

WTT Day 4 Sunday 2nd November 2025
Whakahoro - Taumarunui 74km 1180m
A big day including a long climb up from the Whanganui River to the Volcanic Plateau at Owhango for lunch and coffee at a busy cafe. It was a Glorious gravel ride which continued for much of the afternoon, including negotiating a slip on Hikutumu Rd en route from Owhango to Taumarunui which has closed the road to vehicles. Being tall, Dave was able to climb into the slip and we handed our bikes down to him then lifted them back out on the other side.
We stocked up on supplies at the Taumarunui New World then made our way to the motor camp, unfortunately at the other end of the town a couple or 3km away. it was a reasonably priced campsite with friendly hosts. We also befriended Fijian forestry workers who were basing themselves there.
We took the host's recommendation of a meal at the Rusty Nail pub in town. It was nice to have a hearty meal and a couple of tap beers.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16334488292

10/11/2025

WTT Day 3 Saturday 1st November 2025
Ruatiti Domain - Whakahoro 42km 780m
After a very chilly night where we all had to layer up inside our sleeping bags to get some sleep we started with a round of coffees but the sun was out early and it soon warmed up. We rolled out early for the long ride to the Mangapura junction taking in a coffee at the end of Ruatiti Rd and start of the track.
This was a great back country gravel ride, and the much improved Kaiwhakauka trail down the valley of the same name, the well regenerated bush, clean river and sunny day made for an enjoyable ride down.
We got to the Department of Conservation (DoC) campsite adjacent to the old school house in the middle of the afternoon on a hot day.
Dave and Rosie went in search of a river swim but I opted for the reasonably priced shower and towel at the nearby Blue Duck Cafe. The chef and barista was very friendly and inspired us to have a coffee there in the morning.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16327434600

10/11/2025

WTT Day 2, Friday 31st Octobver 2025 - Pikipriki to Ruatiti Domain 48km 860m
The main effort this day was the big climb out of Pipiriki, stopping at Raetihi for lunch. The small town is served by a couple of good busy cafes, a 4 Square dairy and an outdoor store.
Our destination, the Ruatiti Domain, along quiet country roads, is a free campground run by the local Council. It has spring fed running water and toilets. There are lots of pleasant camp spots and a couple of good swimming holes. Dave purchased a cheap but good 1l German Pilsner at the dairy, which we consumed by the river after the brave (not including me!) had a quick dip.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16327433183

10/11/2025

WTT Day 1, Thursday 30th October 2025 - Wanganui to Pipiriki 75km 1070m
We drove to Wanganui from home (Paraparaumu) after picking up Dave & Rosie ex Nelson. We left my wagon there with one of my brothers, who was to shuttle it to our destination (another brother's abode) while we were riding.
It was a late start once bikes were reassembled and and packing done. After stopping to tweak the bikes and packing we had lunch at start of Whanganui River Road. It's always an interesting ride through this area which is so rich in history. Prior to roads, and European influence, the river was was the region's major trading route. Along the way we checked out the restored Kawana Mill which was one of the many along the river and it was interesting to learn how the indigenous Maori developed a milling industry to trade with the European settlers.
As the day came to a close, we arrived at the Pipiriki Campground which had good facilities based around an old school house and was good value.
A short note on naming. The City Wanganui traditionally had no "h" after the "W" in its name due, as I understand it, to local dialectical norms, however it was always contentious and for a variety of reasons, the more common "Wh" has been adopted, so you might see both in this blog.
https://www.strava.com/activities/16327431841

05/11/2025

A big day of two halves today. We have met up with a wave of Kopiko riders, including an old friend who has adopted bike packing. An enjoyable meal was had at the food caravan run by our B&B host (it’s the only one of each in Ōhura.)

Epic Camp to comfy B&B and cafe at Ōhura. Caught (in a nice way) in a wave of about 10 Kopiko riders (including us, who are diverting off the route tomorrow) | Strava