09/04/2026
Nepal Mountaineering Association Mourns the Passing of Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest
The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) expresses sorrow at the passing of Mr. James "Jim" Whittaker at the age of 97, the legendary American mountaineer who made history as the first U.S. citizen to reach the summit of Mount Everest.
Mr. Whittaker’s successful ascent of the world’s highest peak on May 1, 1963, as part of the historic American Mount Everest Expedition, was a landmark achievement not only for the United States but for the entire global mountaineering community.
For Nepal, a nation whose identity is intertwined with these great peaks, Jim Whittaker was more than a climber. He was a true friend and an ambassador of goodwill. He climbed with deep respect for the Sherpa people, the mountains, and our culture, setting a standard for ethical expedition behavior that remains an inspiration today.
His respect for the Sherpa community and his lifelong advocacy for the mountains of Nepal have left an indelible mark on our nation. We have lost a giant, but his legacy will echo across the Himalayas forever.
The Nepal Mountaineering Association extends its deepest condolences to Mr. Whittaker’s family, his friends, and the entire American mountaineering community. We join the world in celebrating a life of extraordinary achievement and profound dignity.
May his memory serve as a summit to aspire to for generations of climbers yet to come.