21/03/2026
WALKING THE LITORAL WAY - 2026
DIARY OF EVENTS
A pilgrimage from Porto to Santiago
Day 1) Porto to Vila do Conde
Having walked around Spain and Portugal, completing most of the main pilgrimages spanning Iberia (I’ve done a few in France, Belgium and Switzerland too), I am about to attempt one of the more illusive Caminos known as the Litoral Way.
Over the years I’ve walked the Central (Main Camino) and the coastal alternatives, though I’ve recently discovered another less known path through the Douro Valley which links with the Via do Plato Spanish Trail (Robson Green has walked the path). I will definitely need to investigate this Camino too!
For now, I depart from the ‘Legendary
Porto Hotel’ where I have enjoyed a memorable stay. Then, it’s a visit to the cathedral where I’m greeted by other pilgrims intent on doing one of the Camino trails, and from here I descend to the Douro River.
Known as the ‘undefeated city’, Porto is a vibrant, hilly UNESCO World Heritage site situated at the mouth of the Douro River.
Set in granite architecture, and deep-rooted Port wine tradition, the city balances time- old buildings with a modern day persona.
The first 6 km from the Cathedral to São João Baptista Fortress more or less follows the Douro River. Walking away from the narrow, cobbled, streets, I leave behind the bustling, authentic, and yet welcoming city atmospheres as my journey takes shape beside the water’s edge.
Today’s weather is no different to that of the UK, a little warmer perhaps but wet all the same.
A sealed but at times slippery path continues beside the Douro River and soon I’m passing beneath the towering motorway bridge. On the opposite side, a tram rumbles past with intent to climb the cobbled streets back toward Downtown Porto.
Once beyond the harbour and remaining sentinel, I simply follow the Atlantic coast path through the beautiful suburban parks enjoyed by local runners and explorers like myself.
Stopping at a water spigot, I chat to a lady jogger who tells of her last weekend visit to Vila do Conde, the town I am hoping to reach today. Another 30 km I’m informed but worth the trouble with promise of more illusions of grandeur in the form of its bridge, captivating aqueduct and Santa Clara Monastery, a prominent 14th-century building overlooking the town.
After bidding goodbye, I head off to Matohinos where I am greeted by more statuary and grand memorials of the past.
And yet, it is the present day of fresh fish, surf and vibrant local culture, that draws in the international crowds: many of who view this place as one of Portugal's best-kept culinary secrets.
Around midday, I stop by the port for a coffee. It’s very reasonably priced here - just 1.70 euros for a Flat White, and I’m grateful to have a break from the dreary weather.
Life is bustling around the docks and I will need to cross the large bridge above to continue my journey. The experience is daunting with little protection other than a waist high safety rail but I’m soon over and back on the coast route which starts along a promenade and then joins a board walk.
The wooden planks form the bulk of the coast path and continue beyond a power station to my right as far as the next coastal refuge.
Stopping for another break at Cafe Peratita, near the end of the boardwalk, I enjoy the opportunity to sample a local sweet tart derived from passion fruit. Sweet pastries are a celebration of life here in Portugal and the custard tart is another stand-out favourite of mine.
Taking the journey a little further to Cabo do Mundo, I encounter another section of sweeping coastline where a sunny spell puts a spring in my step.
Before long, the sealed ground transforms to a cobbled path marked as Camino Coast and then I’m back to treading more springy planks with only the rocky foreshore below.
The Atlantic breeze blows hard against me and at times I feel cold despite the presence of sunshine. At least the blue sky gets people out and about, bringing a natural energy to the overall experience.
The Litoral Way stays right on the seaboard unlike the Camino Coast Route which veers inland, becoming more arduous due to the many hillside wooded encounters.
It distinguishes itself from other routes, marked with red and white lines and it is also demarcated as ‘The Litoral Way’ and later, ‘The Litoral Norte’ seen on solid stone pillars.
After mile upon mile of duckboards, it comes to my notice that there are a few hazard signs blocking the way (and the occasional JCB!); in fact I have marched through several ‘route closures’ over the last 6 km! There are even sections of the board walk that have collapsed into the sea and at one point, I have to cling on to the supporting rope to prevent joining it!
Not ideal, but I have momentum just now and need to keep pushing on.
Eventually, Vila do Conde comes into view and I divert slightly inland to cross the town bridge.
The Litoral Way and Coastal Route merge at the bridge in Vila do Conde and split again after the bridge. The Litoral Way is 1 km longer but it is more beautiful, particularly as it skirts the coastline. Both routes merge again in Povoa de Varzim and follow the same trail to Aguçadoura.
Once over the bridge, I photo the amazing 17th-century Santa Clara Aqueduct with remaining arches, though I believe there was originally 999. I have actually painted a partial picture of it from memory 2 years ago after walking the Portuguese Costa Camino.
Once at the town centre, I locate Hotel Brazao where I have stayed before on previous journeys.
Now secure for the night, I backtrack along the thoroughfare a short way in search of a pilgrim supper.
Vila do Conde is a historic, coastal town known for its 18 km of beaches, 16th-century shipbuilding heritage, and traditional bobbin lace.
The drive-through town centre is relatively small and on the way to supper, I make a detour to visit the Igreja Matriz (Main Church) and Praza Nova.
It’s been a good day - 40 km to stretch the legs a bit and blow out the Winter cobwebs (9am - 4pm). Starting with 2 Full English breakfasts, followed by a continental one; 6 coffees in all, finally culminating at Restaurant Saura, where I enjoy a Pilgrim ‘Meal of the Day’ washed down with a couple of SuperBocks and some ‘vino tinto’. Ideal - should sleep well tonight!
Day 2 Vila do Conde to Marinhas
It’s a clear morning as I leave Hotel Brazao (just after 8 am) and head off toward the sea front, where many locals are enjoying a healthy start to a new weekend.
The sea air is invigorating as waves spray across the shore. No surfers today but there are many folk counting their steps in regimented fashion along this extensive promenade.
Amid the furore, one town seems to merge with another and before long I am walking through Provoa de Varsim. Throughout the passage, I notice several groups of walkers laden with backpacks and wonder if they are also on a pilgrimage. At least there are plenty of cafes and al fresco bars to accommodate them, as the population begins to rise.
Around 10.30 am, I stop for a coffee at Agucadoura, a place that has evolved from a small coastal farming village where the sandy soil has proved good for growing.
It certainly adds to its cultural charm and throughout the morning, I see many large garden plots with organic land stretching far across to the edge of the dunes.
I’m enjoying the seaside atmosphere along the way and yet, I am not totally inspired by the architecture when compared to the UK, where holiday towns are largely characterised by the Victorian era.
Resorts such as Scarborough and Whitby are dominated by lofty colour-washed buildings and lavish hotels which appear to bully all else into submission.
Many of the older buildings here look as though they are under siege!
They have certainly seen better times and appear rundown rather than characterful.
Pressing on, I welcome the brilliant sunshine which is hard to reconcile given the Winter we’ve experienced so far; like the UK, Portugal has been at the mercy of the Jet Stream which has caused serious flooding in many of the country’s tourist hotspots.
Luckily, this path remains intact which was not always the case yesterday, when crossing a boardwalk that had sank into the salt marshes. I guess, it’s so far so good!
The coastal experience remains a social affair for many and there are some interesting landmarks along the way as more ancient ruins talk to us from a distant past.
The hollow shells with broken roofs are a haunting reminder that nothing stays the same forever and we are all powerless to halt the passage of time.
Eventually, the boardwalk leads me away from the coast: first crossing by a golf course and then skirting a natural parkland.
Poking through the bracken, I see organic farmers gleefully toiling away on their oversized allotments; one guy is helpful, demonstratively guiding me clear of a wrong turn. A lucky escape I feel, as that could all too easily have been costly!
The journey drags on for a while within an anonymous countryside which leaves no clues as to where I am. I’m now just relying on past knowledge that I need to go inland to cross a large road bridge at Fao.
Nearing the town, I stop in a park overlooked by the local church.
While resting, I apply some anti-inflammatory gel on an old hernia repair which has been giving me some stick all day. I have one solitary blister which is not an issue yet but generally I feel a bit below par despite covering over 20 km already by midday.
Another pilgrim sets off by the time I am seated on a bench. Later, as I leave, 2 more walkers arrive and settle by the church.
Passing beyond a local market, I am now just minutes away from the riverbank which I follow to the bridge. Once up and over the road, I begin my crossing which takes about ten minutes.
On the other side to my left, I am greeted by a huge Camino Yellow arrow which points to a new coastal cycle track, as I stride out toward Esposende.
Esposende is a charming coastal town taking its name from the scenic riverfront esplanade which follows the Cávado River, its sandy Atlantic beaches (Ofir and Apúlia), and protected Natural Park.
There are plenty of cafes and restaurants along the way, and so I stop at the next place I come to.
Feeling glad of a refreshing break, I steadily head off contemplating where I may stay tonight as it is by now 2 pm and I’ll possibly want to stop at the next Albergue en route.
I know from past experience that there are not many refusios between here and Viana do Castelo.
Fortunately, I remember that there is an Albergue at Marhinas, and it’s not long before I arrive and check in around 3.30 pm.
There is just one other pilgrim here, David Chan, who turns out to be the guy I saw at the park by the church in Fao.
He is from Vancouver in Canada and has just finished a tour of London before arriving in Porto to tackle the Portuguese Costa Camino.
Once sorted, we head off to the nearby restaurant for a ‘Pilgrim Supper’ and drop of ‘vino tinto’ making it a splendid evening.
In fact, it was too good a night as neither of us could figure out the entrance code to the Albergue, and eventually had to phone the security services to regain access!
Day 3 Marhinas to Viana do Castelo
After a top evening at the local restaurant and a comfortable night at the municipal Albergue, (it could easily have been a night under the stars!), we both feel fit for our day’s walk with aspiration of reaching Viana do Castelo, later this afternoon.
Setting off from here, I recall my last journey when I walked with Ukrainian friend, Yuliana in 2023. At this point, the Litoral Way and Costa Portuguese become one of the same.
Leaving the seaside towns behind, our route now retreats from the coast for the remainder of today until nearing the city.
Soon the sealed lanes give way to wooded sections decorated with pebbles, pictures and personal memorabilia left behind by other pilgrims.
There’s a stretch of main road too which brings about some confusion, though we manage to negotiate the problem and find the alternative path back to the forest.
Once beneath the canopy again, there’s a lovely water crossing along a flat, stone causeway and later, we pass the Albergue which was closed for renovation on my previous visit with Yuliana.
Across from here is a container/cafe where we decide to take a coffee break. It’s very hot for the time of year making it a delightful experience despite the fact we are both carrying injuries. Dave has a sore foot and blisters and I’ve still got a groin strain and now a foot problem as we soldier on resolutely.
Ticking off all the little communities and hostelries, we inevitably meet a few other pilgrims. A small group of 4 are also following the Litoral Way but are intent on travelling beyond Viana today.
Before long, we are crossing another one of those lengthy bridges as we boot on towards the city with cathedral aloft in the mountains beyond.
On reaching the other side we are fortunate to find the Albergue open and check in with the receptionist who speaks enough English to give instructions. Once up to speed with the amenities, we are showered and on our way down to the riverside in search of a meal and glass of beer. Pure bliss and so rewarding after an enduring walk which we have completed in just over 7 hours.
Tonight we have a mixed dormitory shared with 4 other pilgrims who have just arrived. A French lady called Sophie is staying for a couple of days before continuing her journey to Fatima. Another pilgrim is heading off to Rome on an epic 2000-km challenge; and we make friends with a Portuguese chap called Michael who likes beer and ci******es.
The Albergue reminds me of a monastery or certainly a religious institution - one of many I guess that helped transform Viana from town to city. Dominating our journey into the place was the Santuário de Santa Luzia - an extraordinary church, rising cathedral-like above the port, overlooking the Lima Estuary.
The port also played an important role in the city's development.
In the 15th century, it was on the trade routes between the Mediterranean and the North Atlantic. It is the largest place we have come to so far and evidently a crossroads for many great journeys between neighbouring countries of Europe. I guess we’ll see a bit more of it tomorrow.
Day 4 Viana do Castelo to Caminho
Most of us are awake by 6 am as daylight begins to filter through the dormitory, and by 7am we are inside the cafe next door enjoying fresh pastries with our coffee for breakfast. A slight culture shock from bacon and eggs!
The exit from town is less clear-cut as we navigate our way along the thoroughfare by the port. The French lady, Sophie is staying another day so she can visit the hillside cathedral; then, tomorrow she will resume her pilgrimage to Fatima. The Roman pilgrim left at sunrise to continue his eternal quest and Michael is still in bed!
A stunning 20 km coastal walk from Viana do Castelo to Moledo now lies before us.
Spectacular unspoiled beaches with old windmills and some unique concrete pillars marked as ‘Litoral Norte’ interspersed as far as the promenade in Vila Praia de Âncora.
Once on the coast path we continue our walk which pretty much hugs the seaboard, taking in many depleted old buildings, Martello-like sea defences and fortresses associated with the trail’s existence.
Centuries of history and ancient tradition add flavour to an enduring journey as the path fluctuates from boardwalk to beach and a few muddy tracks too.
Later, we meet a snake and after a ‘selfie’ together, I put him back into the bush away from the road where he risks being harmed.
Onward we go along the sand dunes, where nearby Atlantic breakers explode across the rocky foreshore, while away to the distant right, communities loom tantalisingly close.
We take a detour inland and skirt around a lookout point but are soon backtracking down toward the sea again through a small section of woods. At the bottom a stone marker resets our course along the coast path where locals are enjoying some fun by the beach. Thankfully, we can still obtain refreshment along our coastal route and later, after a coffee at a restaurant, we purchase a few basic snacks from an honesty stall which some one has kindly set up for pilgrims.
Armed with a banana and orange, we continue our trek to the promenade in Vila Praia de Âncora where we stop to contemplate the remaining 8 km to the historic town centre of Caminho, our planned stop for tonight. David has also made the commitment to stay on the Litoral Trail and accompany me to Valenca giving us both an extra day in Portugal.
A further 6 km sees us to the outskirts of Moledo where we stop for lunch near to the promenade. The bar tender is pleased to see us and we are equally happy just to sit down in his premises and enjoy a bite to eat.
A king size burger (with egg and cheese), chips and a large coffee makes a good meal for €10.
Kicking on again, we both have sore feet; I’m blistered due to continually wearing boots which I feel is unnecessary on sealed surfaces; I think tomorrow I’ll need a stint in trainers.
Arriving at the edge of town, we are amazed to find Michael sat on a bench enjoying a tin of beer. He has done well to be this far already and soon we are walking the authentic streets of Camhina, a charming, historic town located on the south bank of the Minho River which forms a natural border with Spain. We never stayed here on our last visit, despite it being lauded as an iconic staging post on the Camino Coast Routes to Santiago. The town is noted for its medieval old town centre which is quaintly pilgrimesque, characterised by its Torre do Relógio (Clock Tower).
After much toil we find the Albergue and while we wait for the attendant who is running late, the queue begins to build.
There are many Nationalities here today - Czech, Ukrainian and German to name a few, though fortunately we all manage to get a bed for the night. The Ukrainian walking Union of father (Serge) and Nikita, son are hoping to cross the Minho to Spain by ferry tomorrow: then walk the Costa Portuguese route via Vigo: then mourning the Central Trail at Rondondela. The Czech guy and our friend Michael will be heading for Valenca along the Litoral Way, possibly staying at the same Albergue tonight.
Once showered, a few of us go to the restaurant next door for a lovely salmon meal. David has a 2-hour phone-in back home in Canada, so has to delay his supper - good job we stopped for that burger at Moledo! Serge and Nikita are already tucking in as I arrive at what seems to be a very social bar/restaurant. The English-speaking owner is very friendly and brings us different cheeses to sample. He and his family make the place very welcoming and we all have a lovely evening: even David has enough time to order a steak after his extensive phone call. It’s been another great day on the Camino (in Caminho)!
Day 5 Caminho to Valenca do Minho
Setting off around 7 am, (with extremely sore feet!) the first task is to cross the long concrete bridge which will lead to the riverside trail; our course for today’s journey via the Litoral Norte to Valenca, our final outpost in Portugal before crossing the frontier into Spain tomorrow.
On reaching the riverside path, we stop at a little cafe to enjoy a savoury breakfast which is a first for both of us since leaving Vila do Conde.
We enjoy a bit of polite banter with the maids and collect another stamp for our pilgrim passports; then leave for the riverbank journey, taken up along a sealed cycle track.
It’s a lovely walk beside the water accentuated by tranquil beauty spots dotted with a few boats, fishermen and daily dog walkers. Occasionally, the harmony is broken by a passing train but there is little else to disrupt this peaceful journey.
The sun dissipates the cool air adding further joy to the day, but by now Dave is concerned about his worn out trainers which have contributed to blistered feet. Sadly, his girlfriend returned to Canada with his best pair - perhaps slightly underestimating the difficulties of an exacting Camino journey.
In the end, we make an excursion back through the town of Vila Nova to obtain a new pair of “snickers”. There’s nothing worse than sore feet on a full-blown endurance walk and we have a further 20 km to go today just to reach Valenca.
On the way back to the Camino, we purchase groceries from a nearby supermarket; then it’s down beneath the road bridge to continue our journey. Across the bridge lies Spain but we have to delay our visit there until tomorrow, so as to successfully complete the Portuguese leg of this great pilgrimage. Instead, it’s lunch at the park and a few basic thoughts about our last night out in Portugal.
The afternoon brings Spring-like temperatures, as we toil on, stripped of our jackets and fleeces with water breaks occurring more frequently. Later we run into our Portuguese pilgrim friend, Michael who we met at Viana and who also stayed at the hostel last night in Caminho. And along the way we watch a fisherman cast his net across the tidal Minho. It’s fascinating to observe him unfold his huge net against the fast-flowing water and I’d love to see the result of his labour.
During the last phase, there is a section of seriously eroded woodland which disrupts the path in places though affects cyclists more than we pilgrim walkers.
Once past the obstacles, we are on the side lane into Valenca, the last outpost of this Portuguese odyssey, situated on the border opposite the Spanish town of Tui.
Before considering tomorrow’s journey, we locate the Albergue just below the fortress town: a little further on is a hotel where I stayed on my previous visit here in 2007.
It is still hot just now (3 pm), so we take a visit to the nearby shop for a much-needed Superbock to finish the day.
Fortified by the refreshment, we settle in and enjoy the last of the evening sunshine with a picnic and endearing thoughts of our time spent here this week in Portugal.
Day 6 Valenca to Mos
Leaving the Albergue on this quiet, sunny morning begins with an ascent to the old fortress town centre before making our crossing into Spain, where we join the Portuguese Central Route for the remainder of our pilgrimage.
Valença (or Valença do Minho) is a historic, fortified town directly bordering Spain along the Minho River. It is famous for its 17th-century star-shaped fortress (Fortaleza de Valença), featuring double-ringed walls, historic cobblestone streets, and a popular shopping area known for traditional linens. The evidence seen so far strongly suggests it was an historically strategic town designed to repel invasions, and still retains remnants of its firepower with canons interspersed along the upper walls.
Thankfully, it is now just a peaceful tourist destination and transient for pilgrims who walk the massive fortress walls for panoramic views of the river and neighbouring Spain.
After taking in the all round splendid views, we continue across the international bridge into Tui where we visit the cathedral and collect further stamps.
Stopping at a nearby cafe, we chat with a pilgrim gentleman called Andrew from the North East of England.
The 62 year old completed the first of his eight Caminos in 2018 after watching the film featuring Emilio Estives. He has been hooked ever since! I kind of agree with his ethos: when it gets to a certain time of year, the urge to ‘walk big’ dominates one’ s thoughts. It’s a compulsion that is hard to ignore!
By 10.30 am we have finished our coffee and are heading back through the remainder of this beautiful town.
Tui certainly seems a bit more substantial than first encountered 20 years ago when I trudged through here with blistered feet - well somethings never change!
It helps to take one’s time negotiating the symbolic landmarks along the way which make the experience endearing as well as enduring.
Much of the Central Route beyond here is taken up along the road, though parts of which are encompassed by woodlands. There are waterside trails too, broken by orchards, vineyards and allotments.
Nearing the next small community, we catch up with Andrew again who is taking a rest at the end of a woodland section.
Close by, is a route fork offering an alternative course, though we all decide to stick with the original way-marked trail.
Soon we have a whiff of city life again, as we begin a long trek through the industrial outskirts of Porrino, filling our lungs with the modern day atmosphere of carbon monoxide. It’s not great for we allergy sufferers but then you can’t beat a spot of authenticity!
After 2 hours of mental disintegration and prospect of lung disease, we stop at the first cafe on offer, and moments later Andrew stops by for a chat; we are now just 2 km from the city centre where he has booked a hotel. Those last few steps of the day will thankfully lead him to comfort - lucky him!
We set off moments later but have our sights on reaching the Albergue at Mos.
We are feeling very tired but the road still beckons as industry gradually gives way to more characterful buildings and monuments resplendent of pilgrim traditions.
We are both hungry by the time we reach the outskirts, so shop briefly at a supermarket and then rest at a bench to enjoy our sustenance.
Pressing on beyond the city, we relocate the yellow arrows and are soon back on country lanes away from chaos of urban life.
Most of today’s walk has been along roads and the remaining 2 hours pretty much follow suit as we finally come to a standstill at the community of Mos. What a great little place to end the day - can’t wait for tomorrow which promises a visit to Pontevedra if we are lucky!
Day 7 Mos to Pontevedra
Rising with the birds (the time change means it’s still dark at 8am), we leave the tranquility of Mos behind as we make our first ascent along a country road.
Most of the trail to Rondondela is comprised of lanes which are well-marked with the traditional Galician stone pillars interspersed at half-kilometre intervals.
Soon the huge expanse of another great place lies before us with a towering railway viaduct dominating the town centre of Rondondela.
After stopping for coffee, we carefully follow the arrows out of town and on towards the woods.
Reaching the top, we stop by the pilgrim monument and fountain to cape up for the imminent wet weather.
The undulating path is a bit more interesting set amid the woods but interacting with adjoining lanes which see us to Arcade.
It’s raining hard now, so we take a coffee break at a restaurant which idyllically overlooks the estuary.
Returning to the task, we cross a lovely stone bridge spanning the water where a few boats are moored. But from here on in, the walk is a tough assignment for two lame pilgrims!
You could not have written the script more decisively with the next few miles taken up along an uneven boulder-strewn path which is more of a stream with some acute slippery downhill sections!
Anyway, we crack on diligently and as time elapses we find ourselves on the outskirts of Pontevedra crossing more even, sealed byways until finally we locate the Municipal Albergue, next to the Railway Station.
Ahead lies a charming, authentic city known for its well-preserved medieval old town, Roman roots, and excellent seafood. Located on the Lérez River estuary, it enjoys a relaxed atmosphere amid bustling streets, Gothic churches, and rich cultural heritage
much of which we will hope to see tomorrow. For now, it’s time to rest and recuperate. Today has been a stern examination but despite the elements and various ailments, we have still completed our journey in good time, arriving around 3.30 pm. We look to be on target!
Day 8 Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
The only person who slept peacefully last night was the guy that kept us all awake with his snoring!
Escaping from a dormitory packed like sardines in total darkness is chaotic to say the least, so I pile my cloths and rucksack into the hallway where I can make sense of the situation.
I’m soon showered and preparing a breakfast of fruit and yogurt while David makes coffee for a few of our pilgrim friends.
Then, it’s out into the cool air (shorts and all!) for a trip down memory lane.
It takes a while to reach the city bridge though it was nice to pass a few places I recall my last walk here in 2023.
Our route is well-signposted along this largely pedestrianized city centre recognized for sustainability and walkability which makes it a vibrant, friendly place.
Passing through the Old Town amid historic buildings, and plazas like A Leña and Verdura evoke a quaintly sublime ambience enjoyed by locals and visitors alike.
After traversing the bridge, we prepare to leave the city behind; we also meet other pilgrims heading off to start their day.
In the mix is another father/son partnership, Elio and Vasco, hailing from Lisbon: they are enjoying a bonding experience which began in their homeland.
Beyond the bridge, the Camino begins its retreat from urban life as the journey ebbs away into the wooded glades and orchards.
There are many more pilgrims ahead and after crossing the railway line we arrive at a restaurant called Meson Don Pulpo, where most of us stop for coffee.
I can’t believe the size of David’s sandwhich - it’s basically just a baguette cut in half and loaded with ham and cheese.
I have a large of tortilla with bread, so at least we are sustained for the remainder of our journey today.
Continuing from here, we climb the steep path out of the village, where we paid a short visit to the little church earlier.
It’s a good trail today despite a cold, biting wind and we get to spend most of our walk in the countryside.
By midday, I’ve lost sight of the other pilgrims and don’t stop at the next cafe which is on the opposite side of a main road. Realising I’m not far from today’s destination, I kick on through the remaining outposts, stopping briefly to chat to a couple of donkeys tethered up in a field close by.
By 1.45pm I’m walking in to Caldas de Reis where I book into the Albergue and sort out some hand washing while the wind is strong enough to dry it. Later, after crossing the bridge with its picturesque riverside scene, I catch sight of David who has walked here with Michael and the other guys from Lisbon. It’s a nice little catch up and while they take a dip in the town’s hot spring, we go to the supermarket to buy beer for us all!
After exploring the rest of this little haven, we enjoy supper with 2 German pilgrims, Orlando and Kim, as we prepare for our final 2 days on this present Camino to Santiago.
Day 9 Caldas de Reis to Teo
After fruit and yogurt for breakfast we step out in to a clear cool morning and begin our trek along the slim alleyways past the church; then, within minutes we are back in the countryside - walking more stone trails beside running water.
Orchards and vineyards continue to make up the landscape which is now just interspersed by a few diminutive communities.
The souvenir cafe is not yet open, so we continue a little further to the next hostelry which is patronised by many of our pilgrim friends; every one is now excited at the prospect of reaching Santiago tomorrow.
Setting off after our break, we kick on to Valga, which is characterised by a beautifully built, ornate cemetery. It captures the gaze of all who pass by it, and once we have completed our visit, we begin the next 10 km stint which is bound for the well-known Camino town of Padron.
It’s a pleasant journey amid more tranquil woodlands and farmland, later culminating with views of an industrial plant.
Thick smoke looms ahead (more carbon monoxide!) before the river finally comes into view.
Then, nearing the city something bizarre happens; I hear a yell as David comes crashing to the ground having tripped on a broken paving slab. It was awful and within seconds we are surrounded by locals who try to offer comfort. I have my First Aid Kit out in a flash and one guy gives him an ibuprofen tablet. It’s touch and go for a while but he makes the decision to continue the walk with a badly sprained ankle.
Limping into Padron, we get to witness the Spanish Cup cycle race which at least allows us some respite from the road.
After several photos, we make our way through more slim alley ways which eventually lead back onto the main road. Nearby is a hotel, and stopping briefly we obtain a Camino stamp from the barman; then on departure, we bear left along a track that leads us away from the intercity traffic.
Hemmed in between railway and motorway, we still get a good glimpse of rural life accentuated by vineyards and small holdings.
On the last steps of the day, we encounter a couple more drive-through villages: one has a lovely church and bell tower. A few more kilometers of woodland bring our journey to a close at the Albergue de Teo, where later we are re-united with our German pilgrim friends. It’s busy here tonight and the countdown marker now is less than 20 km.
Day 10 Albergue de Teo to Santiago
Setting off on this quiet Sunday morning with only the sound of chattering birds, we make our way steadily toward the city.
There’s no sign of it yet nor any other active life at present - just more diminutive lanes flanked by running streams, as we pass through several communities that are yet to wake up on this day of rest. No coffee this morning!
Amazingly, we have set a good pace and catch up with a few other pilgrims along the way.
7 km from the finish line, we are joined by a Ukrainian lady called Anestasia, who had set off from Padron at early dawn.
She needs to arrive for Mass at the cathedral by noon; then take a bus to Finisterre. Tomorrow she will take another bus to Porto, a flight to Poland and then bus back into Ukraine; a plane journey back there is of course no longer possible. That’s some itinerary!
We march on together and make only one stop to obtain a stamp; afterwards we scamper the last 2 km through the city, finishing at the plaza to the customary greeting of bagpipes.
The sun is shining as we run into many jubilant faces - some belonging to our friends who have shared this iconic pilgrimage.
What an epic - The Litoral Coast Route in just 10 days! Pity about the painful injuries and for many other reasons, I have felt under par on this one. Also, I think it’s one of those walks where you can struggle to gain momentum. It can of course be done quicker - not that I’d want to in any case.
It certainly wasn’t planned that way - I think now, the slower the better, so as to savour each journey to this beloved place of sanctuary.
SANTIAGO
Historically, the cathedral has been a place of pilgrimage on the way of St James from Medieval times marking the end of many life-changing journeys.
The cathedral is the reputed burial place of Saint James the Great, the apostle of Jesus Christ. I think it’s one of only three remaining churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus, the
other two being St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City and St. Thomas Cathedral Basilica, Chennai in India.
Throughout the year, this enthralling city draws in folk from all corridors of the world, many of whom walk or cycle to its iconic cathedral: a few have even crawled on their hands and knees to rejoice in its sublimity.
On arrival, people stand in awe, captivated by the elaborately carved stone buildings and grand plazas opening up from the magnificent cathedral.
Over many centuries, pilgrims have
journeyed to this iconic location where the veneration of Almighty God is perpetually personified. The atmosphere on a sunny day accentuates its ecclesiastical wonder; even on a wet one, people soak up the merriment amid musicians and pilgrims as they peruse the timeless souvenir shops and tapas bars. The essence of the place, and in particular its creation can only be described as a miracle conceived by humanity as a thanksgiving to God.
The miracle lives on, as do the journeys here that give it eternal life, leaving only footprints behind for others to follow.
Tomorrow, my journey will be little more than a personal archive but then, I will start planning the next walk and more fundraising treks across the UK.
Catch up here again soon at some point!
For more about Moore visit: Robin Moore’s Walks on Facebook.
Continuing my MarchtheMonth campaign for Prostate Cancer, I have completed 308,184 steps so far this month for the cause. Any one wishing to sponsor my effort throughout the month can do so at:
https://marchthemonth.prostatecanceruk.org/fundraising/robins-march-the-month-challenge2027
Those wishing to donate to Cornwall Hospice Care can do so below at:
justgiving.com/page/robin-moore-31
