21/09/2026
THE ANCIENT MODERN CORNISH PILGRIMAGE - Complete Diary of Recent Walk.
Founded in 2004, and established as a fundraising event for Cornwall Hospice in 2010, this discovery trail of Cornwall is walked each year in September by Robin Moore and his followers. The route also includes a 10-mile local circular section in the Gwennap region which he created in 2010.
‘A group of us usually walk this in September/October as a prelude to the Fox & Hounds (Comford) Harvest Auction in honour of Cornish Hospice. The event signals a winding down of our local Summer Season fundraising commitment to the charity’.
THIS YEAR’S CORNISH PILGRIMAGE
This year’s effort started from Mount’s Bay and headed north on its course to Morwenstow.
WALKING THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE
From 1st September 2026
DAY 1 - Mounts Bay to Cohorts, St Ives
- 16 miles
Leaving home at 7 am, I first have a 3-mile TAB to Redruth Station, a train to Penzance followed by a further 3-mile walk to Marazion Church; that’s just to get me to the starting line!
Then, after the early morning ritual of media and presentation with Cornwall Hospice outside St Michael’s Church, it’s time to crack on.
Leaving Marazion behind to continue serving its bloated tourist population, I am soon wading through the bracken following the signs of the St Michael’s Way to quieter corners of this popular region.
Before long I have crossed the marshes, train line and 2 main roads which represent the primary hazards along this ancient pilgrim route.
As the journey continues its retreat from the coast, the bustling town life is replaced by the solitude of low-lying pastures and crop fields which offer an insight into smaller settlements dotted across the changing landscape.
By 11 am, I am approaching Ludgvan where I visit the church to get a stamp for my pilgrim passport. I stop momentarily to take photos and enjoy a sandwich; then press on across more wooded glades, streams, stepping stones and stiles.
I pass a couple of explorers heading into Ludgvan and once out of the woods, I have a steep climb across pastures to a country lane.
Atop the hill, I am rewarded by unobstructed views of the Mount and away to the right I can still see Ludgvan Church poking through the trees. Its turreted tower belongs to St Paul's Church and is widely considered the finest 15th-century granite tower in West Cornwall - sublime and yet serene.
A short stint along the tarmac briefly visits a ford where I’m lucky enough to catch sight of a trout basking in shallow waters.
Soon after, I lean into another steep ascent away from the road on the left and on towards the North coast.
Reaching the top allows a last glimpse of
St Michael’s Mount; moments later it is just a memory as the landscape presents a different face. There’s a distant sight of the hilltop Knill’s Monument set in gorse overlooking the north coast. Immediately ahead are several fields broken by the incongruous presence of solar panels and towering white windmills now an integral part of modern day farmland.
There’s a further 2 fields to the next small holding with a third descending into a residential garden of a former Methodist Church.
From here, a country lane leads me to Trencrom Park where there are actually people - the first groups I’ve seen along the way!
Clearly a popular spot and I get to enjoy a few moments of decent footpath.
It’s all well-signposted with some sections marked as The Camino Ingles, which I have walked to Santiago on several occasions. The last time was from ACoruna having completed The whole of this Cornish Pilgrimage first.
On crossing the next country lane, the pilgrim route tumbles down a cattle field to the old Bowl Rock Chapel which has also been developed as a residential property.
Shortly after crossing the busy road opposite, the path continues through a steep and low escarpment behind a terrace row of properties.
Eventually, at the next stile, I’m set back on a clear course through a couple of paddocks grazed by horses; then it’s a lengthy stint along Laity Lane with Knill’s Monument in focus, becoming more dominant with every step.
The course leaves the road to join a short dirt track to the monument which I find largely unspectacular though massively compensated by panoramic northward views extending beyond Godrevy Lighthouse.
Leaving the site, I bear right onto Steeple Lane and descend to the Cornish Arms where I decide to stop for refreshment.
It’s a lovely interval and chat with the landlady who has pledged support for the hospice.
The final mile of the day sees me join the coast path as I saunter into St Ives and check into my accommodation at Cohorts.
Luckily, the manager, Danny is there to greet me and ensure I am looked after; we go back over 10 years when he first arrived here and it is good to catch up with him again.
Once settled for the night, I visit St Ia Church and then enjoy a pint with a bit of supper before retiring to a deep slumber.
DAY 2 - St Ives to HQ - 27 miles
St Ives has flourished as a vibrant residential town, initially benefitting from the pilchard fishing industry and the age of the train which helped in the development of its present day tourist trade. It is particularly popular amongst artists who enjoy the beneficial light, and the Tate Gallery has helped draw in art-lovers from home and away, ensuring regular patronage throughout the year.
Leaving cohorts around 9 am, I first need to purchase a lightweight poncho to shelter me from imminent rain before returning via the coast path to the St Michael’s Way at Carbis Bay.
Once equipped, I set off in typical Cornish Autumnal weather of sea mist and drizzle.
The coast path is relatively quiet with just a few hardened walkers heavily draped in macs and ponchos.
By the time I rejoin the St Michael’s Way it is raining much harder and seaward views are barely visible.
Continuing through the wooded escarpments into Carbis Bay, I pause to photograph a train arriving at the station.
It looks busy just now as passengers interchange before it leaves to continue the remainder of its journey to St Ives.
A bit further on, the path crosses a railway bridge and then follows a sand trail towards St Uny Church set beside Lelant’s popular golf course.
Although misty, I can still make out the distant view of Hayle Estuary and the few golfers who have braved the elements to enjoy a morning round.
On arrival at St Uny Church, the official start of The St Michael’s Way, I step inside to receive a stamp and enjoy an informative chat with a lady hosting her weekly coffee morning. She tells of a forthcoming National event which Cornwall Hospice has also signed up to on the 19th September.
Pressing on, I follow a sealed lane down to Anne’s Wood, Lelant Saltings and the Quayside Inn which concludes my tour of Hayle Estuary.
Crossing the road, I join the cycle route and walk into town where Leanne from Cornwall Hospice is waiting by Duckies Cafe.
After some key updates and progress report, I’m issued with a few leaflets to distribute en route, so as to promote the fore-mentioned ‘World’s Greatest Coffee Morning’ event.
On leaving the cafe, I continue along the thoroughfare, marked Route 3, towards Copperhouse.
Reaching the edge of town, the pilgrimage leaves the coast to follow a course inland towards Gwinear, Carnhell Green and Penponds.
As the road falls back from the coast, it crosses the main line railway and A30 bridges before reaching the parish church of Saint Gwinear.
Stopping briefly at the historic Anglican Church, I enjoy a drink of Lucozade before continuing to Carnhell Green where I encounter some roadworks. They are everywhere just now! No problem to me though the local community may offer a different opinion. The only thing missing on this leg, is a shop to acquire a banana and bag of nuts to snack on.
Soldiering on, the day passes quickly as I encounter Penponds; almost twice actually, due to a route closure offering no alternative path. By the time I had walked almost round and back to Penponds, a lady exercising her dog explains that there is passage through the new housing estate. After walking back with her, I thank her for the assistance and restart my journey into Camborne.
I’m thirsty on arrival and stop at Wetherspoons for refreshment. I’ve made good ground despite my liaison with Cornish Hospice but decide not to stay long as I have booked supper at the Coppice later this evening.
Also, it is less damp now, so I can enjoy the next phase through Heartlands and then over Carn Brea to Lanner. Can’t wait!
Notably, there are a few changes in the landscape; so far I’ve seen a site for a new care home and walking the Great Flat Lode along the Carn, the the wheels of industry have turned again. This recent development may be for housing but all I can see are great mounds of earth dominating the landscape close to the railway.
To my right, the scene remains consistent with Carn Brea Castle and monument standing out as icons of the Cornish world.
Marching on along the sealed byways, gives an insight into past and present; soon I’m passing St Euny Church as I bear right towards Copper Lane.
It’s a brief blast along a wooded path where cutters are busy trimming the overgrowth; later the terrain opens up a landscape dotted with mine stacks and chimneys from Cornwall’s prolific mining epoch.
Once at the cross roads, I join Copper Lane and continue to Tramcross Lane and Tresavean Tramroad. The Tramway was once part of the Hayle Railway when during the mining era, Lanner grew from a farm hamlet to one of the longest villages in Cornwall. This was largely due to the construction of the terraces, built adjacent to the railway, to house the workforce at Tresavean Mine.
The flat trail which forms part of our local Gwennap Pilgrimage is an ideal way to finish this important leg of the journey.
It also provides an opportunity to grab some all-important supper!
Reaching the village, I enter the Coppice to order a meal and enjoy a pint with the locals.
It feels great to unwind a bit after an exacting day, battling the elements and an on-going chest infection which I’ve endured all Summer. Apparently, the NHS have redefined the prognosis of a chest infection and I’ve been told unless you have a cough they can’t offer medicine!
So, I have to put up with the discomfort - just hope I can keep going!
I feel much better after a meal and a bit of chat before heading off up the hill through Trevarth to complete the last 2 miles back home at HQ.
Boy, I’ll sleep well tonight and will need to with the prospect of a 37-mile trek across Roseland tomorrow. Bring it on I say!
DAY 3 - Carharrack to Pentewan Sands
- 37 miles
Setting off along the local mineral trail in darkness and rain, my first objective is to follow the tramway to Carnon Downs, and then make my way to King Harry Ferry where I will cross the Fal to Roseland.
This old wagon-way, adopted as part of the pilgrim route, was once the Chasewater and Redruth Railway shipping goods out to Devoran for export to far-off Southern lands like New Zealand. It’s now part of a National cycle route running coast-to-coast to Portreath Harbour which was also a loading bay in the 19th century, when it exported ore to Wales in exchange for coal to fire the engine houses. Today, the trail is popular among cyclists and walkers who have access to 3 cycle hire depots/cafes (and at least 3 pubs) between the coasts.
I can’t believe how flooded the tramway is just now with water overflowing from nearby streams - I didn’t think we had that much rain!
Squelching on, I enjoy the early steps through Bissoe Valley highlighted by the spectacular Carnon Viaduct which carries the Truro/Falmouth Branch line.
On dry days, I enjoy a walk to Devoran, Point and then onto Feock but today it’s destined to be a battle of hills and bad weather, so I opt to use the cycle route as far as King Harry Ferry.
Amazingly, I’m there before 9 am and there’s barely a vehicle in sight, though many cars have already passed by me on my descent alongside Trelissick Gardens.
I have time for a boiled egg as the ferry approaches, then I’m greeted by the friendly staff who wish me well for the rest of my travels.
By the time I reach the Roseland Shore the drizzle has subsided and I’m instantly consumed by the region’s rusticity where even the air has a different aroma.
It’s an easy run down to Phileigh where I use 2 footpaths to divert from the cycle route but keep the course more direct.
After obtaining a water refill from the Roseland Inn, I visit the church and sign the Visitors Book. Another footpath keeps my course direct to the next thatched village and instead of rejoining Route 3, I keep to the road ahead which runs uphill almost as far as the primary road to St Mawes.
Before reaching the main road, I join a footpath on the right which crosses it a few moments later but then traverses the pastures on the way to the coastal bay of Pendower.
Reaching Pendower, I stop for a tea at a seaside stall where I chat to a local guy who also enjoys walking and keeping fit as he approaches his retirement years (65 at present).
After the interval, I continue my quest along a sealed track to the round houses of Veryan.
There is also another delightful route to the village that passes Melinsey Mill Tearooms.
Both routes meet at the New Inn (on the right) and there is a shop just a few yards further.
The Round Houses of Veryan provide an interesting insight into Medieval times which were steeped in lore and legend.
It is claimed that the houses were built in a round shape with a cross on top, so the Devil could not find a place to hide! He was regarded as a pest, because he desired some of the young maids of the village who felt squeamish about the thought of him pursuing them in the dead of night.
Consequently, the community reconstructed their dwellings thus ending his clandestine activities and so, with nowhere left to hide, he was banished from the village forever. Let’s hope he has learnt his lesson!
Beyond the Gallery at Veryan Green, one has the option of following the footpath into Portloe and then the coast path to Porthluny Cove. This year, I’m continuing along part of the cycle route where I can do some route-marking. Later, I join the coast section at Portholland as I advance toward Caerhays Estate. It is a popular bathing location with a little grocer store nearby and I collect some water before making my ascent away from the bay. It’s a lovely walk and I can hear other ramblers trudging through the wooded growth. It’s roughly a mile of seaward views but before long I’m exiting onto Route 3 with thoughts of another tea break.
Descending towards Porthluny Cove, I rescue a young pheasant in the middle of the road; it makes little fuss as I cradle it in my arms and shortly after, I am able release it into the estate.
Further downhill is a film set (Poldark) being erected near the shore but the tea room is still open, so I stop for refreshment.
Porthluny resonates with my quest, as one has to be a partial lunatic to even attempt this sort of trek! For most of the time it is an enduring rollercoaster - steep hills affording dramatic coastal scenery, instilling the notion that one has to earn the right to enjoy it!
Roseland has a rural semblance from the moment you leave the ferry and my journey interacts with both footpath and cycle trails which are constantly undulating; some quite steep ascents too!
In fact the next phase crosses Caerhays Estate (600 yards) at a very steep angle.
Reaching the next hamlet atop the hill, I look back and savour views of castle and estate in a backdrop of beach and rolling tide.
It’s an easy walk from here, as Route 3 takes in the campsite at Boswinger and later the alluring harbour at Port Melon. The in-coming tide has transformed the latter into a playground of bathers, paddle boarders and sailing vessels. The inn looks busy too with many sat outside enjoying the late Summer temperatures.
Beyond here, it’s another steep outing to Mevagissey Harbour and tougher still climbing away above St Austell Bay toward Pentewan Sands.
Amazingly I arrive at the campsite before
6 pm - that’s a record for me. Looking forward to supper tonight!
DAY 4 - Pentewan Sands to Orchard Springs (Blowinghouse Road) - 18 miles
Rain and wind disturb my sleep, so by
6.30 am, I’m up, decamped and good to go.
After a chat to the cleaning staff and fellow camper who had recently walked from John O Groats to Lands End (1300 miles!), I’m off along my merry way.
Leaving the campsite, I join the Pentewan Tramroad which is located at the cycle hire depot just inside the village perimeter.
The trail is muddy at first but otherwise provides good access beside the shallow-flowing Pentewan River.
A word of warning - be mindful of full bed silicone insoles; the heal pads are fine as shock absorption when walking on roads. Full beds don’t work in wet conditions as they constantly move about inside the shoe, so my feet are giving me a good telling off this morning!
I care little about the weather now, as the journey takes in expansive views across the Pentewan Valley also enjoyed by early morning joggers and dog owners.
Arriving in St Austell around 9 am, I stop for breakfast at McDonalds where I enjoy a bacon, sausage and egg muffin with coffee for a ‘fiver’.
It’s raining harder now and yet the sun is trying to break through as I set off along the thoroughfare of St Austell.
Just beyond the railway station, I cross the road to follow Route 3 in the direction of the Eden Project and Luxulyan.
I manage to locate all the blue markers along the outskirts; then I join a mile-long woodland path to the Eden Project where amazingly there is barely a soul in sight!
There’s another route closure with no alternative on offer - only a marker for Route 2. Well I’m not forsaking my pilgrimage for a trip to Bodmin! If they can’t be bothered to provide an alternative access, I’ll just carry on regardless.
Before long and without any drama, I’m out the other side with clear sight of the Eden Project parking zone.
Across from the car park and toilet block is my route formed from a bridleway.
Leaving the area via the bridleway (there’s a blue sign marked Luxulyan), I follow the mud track down to the next road.
There’s no blue marker at the bottom, so I use black/yellow tape to indicate the correct direction. Then bearing left, it’s a few yards uphill to the next blue marker which points right along a slim sealed track.
The lane passes Prideaux House and then bears left towards Luxulyan on an even more diminutive byway flanked by tall hedges and ferns.
As the trail tumbles into a wooded valley, I leave the din of township life behind; all that breaks the solitude now is the sound of a trickling stream and the wind whistling through the overgrowth.
After weaving up and down for a mile or so, I pass under a railway bridge which carries the branch line between Par and Newquay (there’s a station at Luxulyan). The valley is uniquely preserved and as the lane follows the fast-flowing water deeper into the woodlands there are some significant industrial landmarks. Dominating the region, is the amazing Treffry viaduct built between 1839 and 1842 by Joseph Treffry.
Spanning 670 feet, the viaduct was designed as a tramway and high level water channel.
It’s great to put the camera to use but it’s a bit slim for traffic here, so you need to have your wits about you - most of all good hearing! Fortunately there are stopping points throughout, and amazingly, I only see one other road which spurs off uphill towards Lanlivery.
From this junction, it is only a mile ascent to Luxulyan Church where I stop for my lunch visit. It’s peaceful here and I rest a while on the bench in the churchyard.
Leaving the village via the Saints Way, I walk downhill past the remaining cemetery as I commence my passage to Lanivet.
The trail is flooded in places where the ditches have over-flowed into the road; it’s nearly a case of removing shoes and socks in places but amazingly I march on unscathed!
The journey remains pleasantly rural with only a few small pockets of life to break up the monotony of the road. In fact most users who share the tarmac are equestrians but once I leave Fenton Road it’s a torrid experience for a mile or so.
Soon I hear the roar of the A30, as this leg of the journey closes in on Lanivet.
Reaching the drive-through village, I stop at the inn to charge up my IPad which is now running on empty.
I’ve no idea where I will be staying - hopefully at the nearest campsite from here!
Luckily, I contact the Orchard Spring site which is fortunately along the route I’m using this year (I usually stay on the Saints Way and finish at St Dennis Campsite in Padstow). This alternative and cycle route via Blowinghouse Lane and the Camel Trail is equally endearing.
Right now, it’s supper and refreshment before heading off to set up camp for the night. Catch up tomorrow all being well!
DAY 5 - Orchard Spring to Padstow
- 20 miles
Last night I watched the sun go down to the joyful sound of a steam train chugging along the Bodmin and Wenford Heritage Line.
The din of A30 traffic flow through the night was less endearing and as a result I slept little.
Rising at 7 am to a clear sky, was a better start than yesterday and after conversation with a group of cyclists riding to John O’Groats via Chepstow, I prepare for my own little outing to Padstow.
The cyclists have already raised money for an African youth football team and are now hoping to amass enough to pay for a thousand pairs of football boots. Wow that’s some goal!
By 8.30 am, I’m trundling off down Blowinghouse Lane towards the outskirts of Bodmin.
After passing under the railway bridge, I follow the cycle route along the course of the railway as far the Nanstallon Junction. There’s a footpath via Fern Restaurant which leads to the next phase though I stick to the trunk road which passes the hospital and also sets me on course for the Camel Trail.
After a few rolling hills along this delightful wooded lane, I come to the big white sign post marked Boscarne Junction.
Turning right onto the footpath, provides a short journey across a river and uphill to the Camel Trail and Bodmin & Wenford Steam Railway Terminus. No trains today yet but I get to chat with a lady cyclist who has recently walked a pilgrimage to Rome.
Her next adventure will take her to New Zealand (the world’s best-kept secret!), which I feel ably equipped to comment on, having walked round most of the country.
We get on well with so much free-spirited adventure experience to draw on.
After saying goodbye, I begin my stint along the Camel Trail which up until Doctor Beeching swung his axe, was a prolific part of the Great Southern Railway.
And although now relegated to a tourist line, it still captures the semblance of that bygone age which to many like me, evokes a great sense of nostalgia.
Walking on towards the north coast, I pass a tea room to the right of the trail and throughout the journey, I come across several preserved platforms and railway timetables.
Nearing Wadebridge, I cross a tributary of the River Camel where I can see a shoal of grey mullet basking near the surface.
It’s busier now, as I carefully navigate my way past the many joggers, equestrians and cyclists who frequent the trail for their daily recreation. It may not be as crowded as the Wadebridge to Padstow section, yet vigilance is required at all times, especially since the addition of electric bikes which are hard to hear and leave no time to react.
If you get hit by one of these - it’s game over!
Soon, the sight of Wadebridge comes into view and once in town, I stop at ‘Harry’s Place’ for a pot of tea and bacon/egg sandwich.
Wadebridge is characterised by its bridges, notably ‘The Bridge on Wool’ funded by local farmers. Before that time pilgrims had to ford the tidal Camel with only a prayer for comfort. It is said that wool bails were used for stability during the construction of the bridge; hence it was literally built on wool!
Once refuelled I head off in search of the Camel Trail to complete the last 5 miles to another ‘Harry’s Place’, St Dennis Campsite at Padstow.
It’s a super busy section compared to what I’ve seen so far and a more hazardous one with a mix of hard-core athletes and youngsters learning to ride for the first time. No place for the faint-hearted!
Marching on, the trail opens some panoramic views across the Camel Estuary where boaters and yachters are making the most of the latest heatwave. For many the experience is epic!
Despite a reasonable day, I’m noticing a lot of pain in my right knee which is unusual, though could be down to some recent ladder/roofing work that I’ve had to contend with. But it’s not long now until I can rest my weary body and I gain some impetus from stunning views of Padstow as the old track bed nears the huge steel bridge that signals the end of the line.
Once across and a little further on, is the
St Dennis camp site where I promptly set up my shelter, and then after a shower I wash some kit.
While the drying machine is running, Harry stops by for a chat explaining he is off to Par with his daughter for a horse-riding beach event. Sounds great and good to see him enjoying these special moments in life.
Once sorted, I’m off to St Petroc’s Church to complete this part of the pilgrimage; then it’s supper and refreshment to finish the day.
Tomorrow will see me across the estuary and on to Camelford where I can contemplate tackling the last third of this present pilgrimage.
Day 6 Padstow to Camelford (Arthur’s Kingdom) - 20 miles
Rising at 6.30 am to blustery but dry wind, provides a good start to the morning and after a breakfast of sardines, and with my knee strapped up for another day on the road, it’s off to find a ferry to the popular seaside village of Rock.
It’s still early but I arrive in time to meet the first arrival from Rock and am able to board straight away. There is just one other passenger and it’s a brief passage, so within minutes I’m on my way through the quiet streets of this affluent holiday location.
There’s barely a car in sight with just a handful of joggers occupying the thoroughfare, and while enjoying these early steps, I manage to photo Gordon Ramsey’s Place. No sign of him yet but then I doubt he’d be outside sorting out a breakfast barbecue in these windy conditions.
He’s probably at Damar Bay fishing for his breakfast with Rick!
The journey continues along the paved outskirts and eventually I stop to purchase some snacks and soda water.
Beyond here, there are few amenities as the road twists and turns its way to the last outpost of this region, St Minver where I just manage to catch sight of the church spire behind the local pub. All is closed here, so it’s a quick drink stop and on to the crossroads where the next section of the journey takes in a sequence of slim lanes, serving mostly unchartered villages with historic churches from medieval times.
I barely see a car along the way and enjoy passing through some of these lesser-known places. The trail is still clearly marked in black and yellow tape and even the Kings Way has adopted some of my pilgrim route, celebrating its rural pleasantness.
Stopping at St Kew, I visit St James Church and then go to the pub to claim a free soda water from the barmaid.
It’s Sunday, so not technically open yet, but the staff let me enjoy a break and use the facilities.
Leaving the village, I walk back up the hill which continues its climb for a further 1.5 miles to the Pendoggett junction.
Atop the hill, I bear right and continue along a very slim track with barely enough space for a cart horse.
The first thing I meet is of course a camper van in a hurry! There’s just enough room to dive into a hedge and apart from acquiring a handful of thistles, all is well; though it’s a little difficult evading danger with a dodgy knee.
Otherwise, the journey is great, as I soak up the rusticity spiced with the aroma of manure which has been a dominant feature of the day so far.
On reaching St Teath, I am invited into the church by the local minister who signs my passport. She then tells of a service at Camelford later today.
I sit a while in the churchyard and enjoy a pasty purchased earlier at Rock; then visit the pub for coffee and soda. While there, I chat to locals who are interested in my quest and hearing about other tales of adventures.
It was a lovely interval and from here, I set off for the last outposts of today’s effort, Twewalder and Lanteglos Church.
Turning left just beyond the pub by the cafe, I embark on a lovely country walk, taking in more of the same slim winding roads steeped in country fragrance. Each of the remaining places are barely a mile apart; the last little settlement I stop at houses Lanteglos Church and cemetery which I can only describe as something beyond beautiful.
The steep ascent beyond the church, leaves a sundry 1.5 miles to the centre of Camelford which along the way, takes in St Juliot’s Well campsite and the much-lauded Bowood Estate Golf Course.
Joining the cycleway next to the Atlantic Highway, I descend into Camelford and pick up a few groceries from the Co-op. Then it’s a pint at the Masons Arms for old times sake, a visit to the Chinese Takeaway before finally checking in at the Counntryman Hotel where I am residing tonight.
Can’t wait for a shower and rest!
DAY 7 - Camelford to Tregadillet
- 30 miles
Usually my visits here evoke inclement weather and today is no exception, as I prepare to set off toward Bodmin Moor.
Leaving the Countryman Hotel, I cross to Rough Tor Road where I start my ascent to the Moor.
By the time I reach the top the rain has subsided and it is serenely calm for a morning walk. There’s a few vehicles passing by and I see a couple of strollers in the distance crossing Davidstow Woods.
It’s not long before I join them on this lovely section of moorland which conveniently snips off a huge section of the original route which once followed the Cornish Way cycle trail.
By the time I leave the woods I only have a further half mile to reach the cattle grid which marks the end of the Aerodrome phase.
Leaving the Aerodrome, I continue straight ahead ignoring the blue cycle route markers which lead to Tremail and Week St Mary.
My route along this country lane is narrow in places as I remain ever watchful for approaching farm vehicles.
Today, it’s particularly busy but the 4-mile journey to Altarnun soon passes.
Stopping for a short break at the Rising Sun, the pub staff let me refill my water bottle; then it’s off down the hill towards
‘The Cathedral of the Moor’.
Shortly after I turn left at the next junction and a little further on I pass The Travellers Rest Campsite and Pilgrim Refuge.
From here the remaining half mile descent sees me at the church gates.
It’s nice to spend a few peaceful moments at St Nonna Church, affectionately know as ‘The Cathedral of the Moor, and after collecting some groceries from the village store, I continue up to FiveLanes where I stop for a lunch break.
It’s a busy juncture here with traffic continually spurring off the A30 and I’m glad to get going again.
Bearing left under the A30 bridge, the country road soon leads me away from the busy flow and over the next hour, all I see is farmland and a couple of cyclists.
The din of traffic has quickly faded from memory as I negotiate winding lanes (often with grass in the middle) as far as Plusha Cross.
There’s plenty of traffic at this junction, made worse by the now depleted A30 now apparently under repair (until March!).
Just as well the Holiday Season is nearing an end!
It makes little difference to me as my route crosses the Callington Road at Plusha and climbs past Kelly’s House and onto Lewannick where I stop for refreshment at The Archers Arms.
Then after a visit to the church, I bear left onto the stony footpath known locally as ‘Boulder Alley’ (beside the cemetery).
I can see how it acquired its title - it’s quite rough and not suitable for cyclists - but once over the stream there’s a glimpse of a local farm followed by a delightful woodland journey.
At the top of the byway, I have a brief sight of the busy A30, before bearing right downhill past the Distillery.
The footpath continues straight on (the road bears left) entering a steel gate and then continues through more woods. The track runs for a further mile with only a couple of farm houses to break up the journey and scallop shell to mark the way.
When the path rejoins the road, it passes a meat processing factory and turns left for Kennards House a mile or so later.
There is a scallop shell at this junction which clearly marks the walking route I have just taken via Hicks Mill (2.5 miles); and the alternative more extensive cycle route via the outskirts of South Petherwin to Lewannick.
I’m now only a couple of miles from Tregadillet but this road is manic at the moment with huge farm machinery powering through toward Kennards House.
Managing to arrive at the A30 junction unscathed, I carefully negotiate the roundabout and make my way into Tregadillet.
I have been camping at the farm here for many years and the lady is pleased to see me as we catch up on the past year which seems to have flown by. It’s been a quiet year with less camper-vans than usual - I guess it must be the oil crisis?
After setting up base, I backtrack to the Eliot Arms where I have a table booked for the evening. I have about an hour’s media work to deal with and then supper. On arrival, I’m greeted by one of famous endurance walker ‘Speedo Mick’s pals and after a great chat he sponsors me £20 via my justgiving page.
DAY 8 - Tregadillet to Stratton - 26 miles
After a night of torrential rain, I gather up my soaking kit and load it as best I can; then it’s off down the lane to Launceston.
I’m completely wet through by the time I reach the centre of town but luckily there is a Costa cafe open, so I stop awhile for some breakfast and coffee.
I get to take a couple of photos before leaving, then it’s off past the derelict castle and narrow gauge railway which runs through the Kensey Valley to Newmills.
With the weather in decline and this being one of the longer, more isolated sections, I need to take more water which I buy from the Co-op before starting the task. It seems water is the key element of today’s journey!
Passing St Stephen’s Church allows the last glimpse of ancient Launceston, once the county town of Cornwall, before veering away towards Langore and North Petherwin.
The section to Langore is set beside Launceston golf course and in ‘Rush Hour’ there is enough traffic about to keep me on my toes.
The roads are flooded too, so it’s hard to avoid wet feet (in fact wet everything!).
Fortunately it’s only a short blast and before long I’m descending into the village of Langore. Not much here - you blink and miss it - a village hall and a few scattered houses.
Pressing on a bit further sees me at the North Petherwin Junction which points the way to a pleasant journey of a mile up to the village.
I’m actually doing quite well despite lack of sleep; okay that is, until I decide to take the church route for a change. The church sits outside the village and is well worth a visit.
Staying on this road will also lead me to Week St Mary and although equal distance to my main route, this winding narrow road is far too hilly dragging the journey out until noon.
It is 12.30 pm by the time I get to Week St Mary and by then I have covered over 15 miles.
Stopping for a lunch of mackerel and bread roll, I chat to the locals here whom I always find cheerful and friendly despite their ailments.
With a spring in my step, I set off again; now in pursuit of Marhamchurch the last segment of today’s effort which is another 5 miles from here.
The road continues to take in endless rusticity as it meanders up and down for a further hour or so, until finally I see the church of St. Marwenne
peering over the hill in the distance.
It seems far off but within 20 minutes, I’m almost within its grasp as I pass over disused railways now consumed by a large farm close to the village.
The pub and shop are open on arrival, but I only stop for a moment to photograph the church.
The last few miles of this enduring day resume at the bottom of the village, bearing right under the A39 bridge where I join the canal tow path.
The trail has become a popular leisure route frequented by numerous walkers and joggers; it also forms an interesting part of the pilgrimage and affords cycle access too.
On reaching Falcon Crescent, I enter the Tourist Office to obtain a stamp for my passport.
There’s no accommodation in town tonight, so I have booked a stop at the Tree Inn at Stratton.
Although a couple of miles or so away from the final section of my walk to Morwenstow, set by the coast, I can join it from here via Coombe Valley (another 6 miles) which we use as our cycle route. Look forward to walking those final steps tomorrow!
DAY 9 - Stratton to Morwenstow - 10 miles - Completo!
Today, because I’m starting at Stratton rather than intended Bude, I will endeavour to pick up the Pilgrimage cycle/alternative route.
I’d located the appropriate junction last night and marked it with tape, so the first objective on leaving town is to walk back to this point.
Once underway, it provides delightful journey through Coombe Valley to Morwenstow with coast in sight for most of the way. Along the way are opportunities to join the coast path at Sandy Mouth Bay and Duckpool and Stanbury Mouth which ensures the opportunity to visit
St Morwenna Church and Hawkers Hut.
I must say I had a delightful stay at the characterful Tree Inn where I found the locals to be a friendly bunch. I was too tired to see the evening through, so had to bail out shortly after dusk.
For now, I set off amid more cloud cover which signals further rain.
Amazingly, this does not transpire and I’m blessed with radiant sunshine, as I steadily make my way beyond Sandy Mouth Bay.
The cycle route follows a slim trail affording great coastal views and is a bit easier on my stiff knee. It’s still undulating but there’s little interruption from traffic which can only crawl along these coastal lanes.
For an hour or more the landscape is dominated by the huge satellite dishes at Stanbury.
En route, I see a large group of walkers exploring the region and later I get onto the coast path and visit Hawkers Hut.
The eccentric but caring reverend Hawker built the hut from drift wood and spent his leisure time here smoking o***m and writing poems; (just as vicars do!!). I must confess, I don’t know many vicars with these qualities, so I guess he must have been ahead of his time!
During his tenure in Morwenstow, the churchyard of St Morwenna became a burial site for drowned sailors who had perished on the Atlantic Anvil below.
The church stands isolated in a steep bare valley at the hamlet of Morwenstow which concludes my pilgrimage of Cornwall.
On Saturday 12th September, Colin Bloomfield and I walked the Cornish Pilgrimage Gwennap section which helped spearhead the second phase of fundraising campaign for Cornwall Hospice.
This includes our Autumn Raffle Draw at The Fox & Hounds, Comford which will run up until the end of October (Halloween Night).
Any one interested in walking any part of the Pilgrimage or join us on future charity events, please contact:
Zoe Underhill
Community Engagement Ambassador
Cornwall Hospice
Phone: 01726 839571
Address: Countywide
Website: www.cornwallhospice.org
Linktree: https://linktr.ee/CornwallHospice
www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
For an up-to-date information about the Cornish Pilgrimage, videos and booklets, please visit the section on:
www.robin-moore.co.uk
For details about recent walks, post walk diaries and current news, check out:
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook.
Or RobinMooresWalks on Facebook.
CORNWALL HOSPICE
https://cornwallhospice.org
Cornwall Hospice:
Home Cornwall Hospice is an independent charity providing compassionate, specialist end of life care for patients, their families, and carers across Cornwall.
More footage available at:
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook.
For further reading check out:
www.robin-moore.co.uk
To sponsor my recent efforts and ongoing walks, please go to:
www.justgiving.com/page/robin-moore-36
